Can You Compost Cardboard?

Yes. You can compost cardboard. It is made from organic materials that naturally break down over time. It will decay into nutrient rich compost that you can use in your vegetable garden and flower beds.

In composting, there are ‘brown’ materials and ‘green’ materials. Cardboard is considered a brown material because it is rich in carbon. To compost cardboard waste, you will need to mix it with some green materials, which are rich in nitrogen.

Which Types of Compost Can You Compost?

There are different types of cardboard. Not all are compostable.

• Corrugated cardboard can be composted if it is cut into small pieces. For example, you can compost moving boxes and most Amazon boxes.
• Flat cardboard like you would find in cereal boxes and shoe boxes can also be composted.
• Pizza boxes, even if they’re coated in grease, can be composted
• Toilet paper rolls and paper towel rolls can also be composted

Types of cardboard that you shouldn’t compost

• Cardboard that has been coated with plastic, wax, or metal foil shouldn’t be composted. Examples include plastic cups, ice cream containers, and some pet food bags. If you really want to compost these items, you can but you will need to remove the coating first. This could be a job.
• Cardboard that is covered in plastic tape or stickers shouldn’t be composted unless you remove them first.
• Cardboard that is coated in heavy dyes, like beverage containers, shouldn’t be composted.
• Whole boxes shouldn’t be composted. They need to be broken down first. 

Why Compost Cardboard?

Composting cardboard keeps it out of the landfill. This is important because cardboard and paper make up about 26% of all municipal waste according to this interesting article. Landfills are some of the biggest emitters of methane and carbon dioxide. As waste decays, it releases gasses. Reducing the amount of cardboard in the landfill helps reduce the emission of greenhouse gasses.

Cardboard is also an excellent brown material to use to balance out green materials in your compost. Brown materials provide carbon while greens provide nitrogen. You need browns to balance out the greens. Some great green materials include grass clippings, kitchen scraps, and coffee grounds. Both types of materials are necessary to make quality compost. 

Cardboard makes great compost. It does a great job of retaining moisture. Cardboard also gives your compost some structure. It helps create air pockets so your compost stays oxygenated. You can use the compost in your flower beds and vegetable gardens.

Why Not to Compost Cardboard

The only reason not to compost cardboard is because certain types of cardboard can introduce toxins into your garden. They can release heavy metals and petroleum products as they degrade. These toxins come from coating or ink on the cardboard, not the cardboard itself.

If enough of these toxins build up, they could harm your plants and slow their growth. They will stay in the soil for many years. For this reason, you have to be careful about the types of cardboard that you compost. It’s best to only compost clean cardboard that doesn’t have any type of coating or printing on it.  

Some gardeners claim that you shouldn’t compost cardboard because it can contain formaldehyde. This can be a problem because formaldehyde can kill certain beneficial bacteria and fungi. This could slow down the decomposition process. The good news is that formaldehyde is a volatile substance. Most of it will break down and dissipate away before it contaminates your soil. 

Composting Cardboard Vs Recycling

Most cardboard can be recycled or composted. Generally, composting is the more environmentally friendly option. It is clean and it doesn’t waste any resources. It doesn’t release anything harmful into the soil or use any fossil fuels. The cardboard decays into a nutrient-rich hummus that you can use to feed your plants. 

Recycling is also a good option but it’s not as environmentally friendly. One problem with recycling is that some of the cardboard doesn’t actually get recycled. It ends up in a landfill somewhere or it gets burned. Sometimes recycling just isn’t economical. 

Also, recycling itself isn’t the most environmentally friendly process. A lot of water and fossil fuels are required to process post-consumer paper into new products. Recycling plants actually use more fossil fuels than paper mills. The process of recycling paper also creates byproducts that are difficult to dispose of. If you want to save the environment, you’re better off reducing the amount of paper products that you use.

How to Prepare Cardboard to Compost

1. Sort the cardboard- Before you start the composting process, remove any cardboard that has a glossy coating or excessive printing. Ideally, you should only compost clean cardboard. If it has a bit of printing on it, it’s okay. 
2. Clean the cardboard- Remove any materials that won’t decompose such as tape, staples, stickers, foil liners, cellophane, etc. If you’re not sure, remove it. You don’t want these in your garden because they could break down into microplastics or they could release potentially toxic chemicals. 
3. Break the cardboard into small pieces- Smaller pieces will decompose faster because they have more surface area for the microorganisms to work on. Small pieces are also less likely to clump up. If the cardboard is thin, you can tear it up with your hands. If it’s thick, you may need to use some scissors, shears, or a box cutter to cut it up. You can also soak the cardboard in water to make it easier to tear apart. You could also use a paper shredder if you have one that is powerful enough to shred cardboard. 

How to Compost Cardboard

1. After the cardboard is clean and cut into small pieces, you can add it to your compost heap. If you’re starting from scratch, add a layer of shredded cardboard that is about 4” thick. Add some other high-carbon materials such as shredded dried leaves, straw, wood chips, or ash. These carbon-rich materials are referred to as ‘browns’ in composting. 
2. Next, add some water. The pile should be moist but not wet. It should be about as damp as a sponge that has been wrung out. Microorganisms need a moist environment to start decomposing the cardboard, food waste, and other organic waste.
3. Next, add a 4 inch layer of nitrogen-rich materials on top of the cardboard. You could use food scraps, coffee grounds, grass clippings, etc. These nitrogen-rich materials are referred to as ‘greens’ in composting. 
4. Continue adding more layers of brown and green materials. When you’re done, you can add a layer of soil on top if you choose but it is not required. This layering method is sometimes referred to as the lasagna method. 
5. After 5-7 days aerate the compost. Use a pitchfork to turn the compost. This will help add oxygen to your compost. The beneficial microorganisms need oxygen to decompose the cardboard and other materials. Aerating your compost can also help prevent it from matting. You should aerate your compost once every 5-7 days. 
6. Water the compost when it starts to get dry. You should check on it every 3-5 days to make sure it’s not drying out. When it is, use a hose or watering can to dampen it. You can use rainwater or regular tap water. Rainwater is preferable because more neutral. Be careful not to add too much water. You just want the compost to be moist, not completely wet. If you add too much water, it could start to smell and mold and attract pests. The best way to tell if your compost is too wet is to pick up a handful and squeeze it. If a few drops of water come out, it is the correct dampness. If water runs out, it’s too wet. 
7. Add materials as they become available. When you have some new kitchen scraps or yard waste, add them to your compost. Ideally, your compost should be 2-3 parts brown materials for every 1 part green materials. If you add too many greens, the compost will become a sloppy mess. If you add too many browns, it will take a long time to decay.  

Other Ways to Compost Cardboard

Another way to compost cardboard is to start with a layer of sheets of cardboard at the bottom of the pile. You can then build a regular compost pile on top of it. Alternate green and brown materials. You can mix in more shredded cardboard if you choose. Over time, the cardboard at the bottom will slowly break down and become part of the pile. 

You can also add a layer of cardboard sheets to the bottom of raised garden beds. The cardboard will help with weed control. Over time, it will decay away and add some organic material to the soil. The cardboard will also help hold some moisture. You can add several layers but you don’t want to add too much cardboard or it will take too long to decompose. 

You can also place cardboard under your mulch. The cardboard will keep the weeds down. It works as a weed barrier, like landscape fabric. The mulch will hold the cardboard in place. Over the course of a year or so, the cardboard will decay away. For more info on this technique, check out my guide to sheet mulch.

Can You Compost Cardboard With a Glossy Coating or Printing On It?

Most people don’t compost cardboard that has a glossy coating or printing on it. The reason is that the inks and adhesives used to make these can contain petroleum products and pigments with heavy metals. They are not made from natural materials. If you compost these types of cardboard, they could contaminate your soil with potentially harmful chemicals. These chemicals would stay in the soil for a long time.

These days, you can compost some glossy and printed cardboard. Many companies are switching to more environmentally friendly inks and adhesives that are made from organic materials. They contain fewer harmful chemicals and are more environmentally friendly. They break down naturally. You could compost these if you choose. Some people do. 

It is also possible to remove the coating in some cases. You may be able to wet the cardboard and scrape it off with a knife. If there is a foil coating, you may be able to separate it from the cardboard and tear it off. If you can remove the coating, you can compost the cardboard. Sometimes, it’s more hassle than it’s worth. 

Personally, I don’t compost shiny cardboard if it has a glossy texture or if it has too much ink on it. I also remove any tape, stickers, or adhesive before composting it. I try to only compost clean cardboard. If it has a little bit of printing on it, I will sometimes still use it. 

Composting Other Paper Products

You can compost other paper products such as newspapers and office paper. Junk mail is great for composting as well. Shred the paper and add it to your compost, just like you would use cardboard. Avoid composting glossy paper or paper with too much ink. 

How Long Does it Take for Cardboard to Turn Into Compost?

In good conditions, it will take around 6-8 weeks for cardboard to turn into nutrient-rich compost. In less-than-ideal conditions, it may take 3-6 months. When composting in poor conditions, it could take one to two years before the compost is ready.

Exactly how long it will take for the cardboard to turn into compost depends on the type of cardboard and how active your compost bin is. Thinner and lighter cardboard will decay faster. Hot and active compost bins will also decompose cardboard faster than cold compost bins. 

My Experience

If I buy a product that comes in a cardboard box, I often use the cardboard for compost. I only add clean cardboard to my compost. If it has some printing on it or if it has a glossy coating, I recycle it or throw it away. Before adding the cardboard to my compost, I remove any tape or labels and make sure it doesn’t have too much ink. I then cut it into smaller pieces. When I’m making a new compost bin or raised garden bed, I will line the bottom with a layer of cardboard. I also used some cardboard under my mulch when I expanded my garden. 

Cardboard can make great compost. It can add some valuable nutrients to your compost. It also adds organic matter, which helps retain moisture. The resulting compost can be used in your flower beds and vegetable garden. Compost can help your plants grow stronger and healthier. 

Do you compost cardboard? Share your experience in the comments below!

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The post How to Compost Cardboard Boxes and Paper the Easy Way appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

Can You Compost Citrus?

Yes. Citrus is completely compostable. Citrus is a natural material. You can compost both the peels and the fruit itself. It will biodegrade over time, just like any other organic material. It doesn’t contain anything that could be harmful to your compost or your plants. 

That said, you do need to have the right compost mix to compost citrus effectively. Citrus is acidic and it decomposes slowly. You don’t want to put too much in your compost. It’s best to add citrus waste in small quantities. Most households don’t consume so much citrus that the peels would make up a large portion of the compost. If you have too much citrus, it may not compost well. It’s also important to note that the fruit is more acidic than the peel and lemons are more acidic than oranges. You’ll want to keep this in mind when composting citrus.

The Myths About Composting Citrus

In the past, many people were taught not to put citrus in their compost bin. The belief was that the acid in the citrus would kill worms and beneficial bacteria. Some also believe that citrus peels decompose too slowly to compost. There is also the belief that citrus peels contain pesticides. Some people also would not compost citrus peels because they are sometimes used to make pesticides. 

The reality is that there is no science behind any of this. There may be some truth to some of these claims but citrus peels are perfectly fine to compost. They can actually be beneficial for compost. 

Does Citrus Take Too Long to Decompose?

Citrus peels take more time to decompose than other types of kitchen scraps such as coffee grounds or apple peels. This is because the cells are naturally resistant to decomposition. These are the same cells that contain the oils that give citrus its distinctive scent.

To speed up the decomposition process, dry the peels out first. Either put them on a baking sheet and put them in the oven on low heat or put them on a rack and set them out in the sun. The oils will dissipate quickly. They evaporate away.

After the peels are dry, cut them into smaller pieces. Increasing the surface area of the peels gives decomposers more surface area to work on. The peels will decompose much faster this way. 

Does the Acidity of Citrus Affect Microbes?

Citrus fruits are acidic. Worms and beneficial microorganisms that decompose your compost don’t like acidity. Adding too much citrus to your compost could increase the acidity (lower the pH) and make it harder for microorganisms to decompose. 

The acidity depends on what you’re composting. The fruit is more acidic than the peel. Lemon peels have a pH of around 4.5 while the juice has a pH of around 2. Some types of citrus are more acidic than others. For example, lemons have a higher acidity than oranges. Oranges have a pH of around 3.7-4.3 while lemons have a pH between 2 and 3. 

The solution is to create a balanced compost. Add some alkaline and neutral items to help neutralize the pH. Avoid adding to many acidic items. For example, you might not want to add a bunch of coffee grounds with the citrus because both are acidic. You also shouldn’t add too much citrus all at once.

Ideally, your compost should be around neutral. It can be slightly acidic to slightly alkaline. If your compost becomes too acidic, you could add some wood ash or lime to increase the pH (make it more alkaline). Alternatively, you could add some more neutral brown compost materials to dilute the acidity away.

If you’re concerned that your compost is too acidic, you can do a pH test. You can buy a soil pH tester online for $10-$15. Ideally, your compost pH should be between 6 and 8. 7 is optimal because it’s neutral. If your compost is too acidic, you may not want to add citrus. 

It’s best not to use citrus in worm composting. The acidity can harm or even kill your worms if it gets too intense. A bit of extra acidity doesn’t matter in a regular backyard compost heap or pile because compost doesn’t rely on worms. Microorganisms do most of the work. Worms just help. 

There are also some plants that prefer acidic soil. Examples include rhododendrons, azaleas, hydrangeas, and blueberries. Some people actually keep two compost piles. One is neutral and one is acidic. The acidic compost is perfect for acid loving plants. Citrus peels are perfect for making acidic compost. 

Do Citrus Peels Contain Pesticides?

Some people don’t compost citrus peels because they believe that they contain pesticides. This is true. Citrus trees are treated with pesticides. Some of the pesticides do soak into the peels. The reality is that all fruit is treated with pesticides. If you put any type of fruit or vegetable waste in your compost, it likely has some pesticide residue on it. 

Microorganisms also do a good job of breaking down most pesticides into harmless compounds. Some of the pesticides also evaporate away as the citrus decomposes. They won’t affect most insects or microbes. Once the compost is ready to use, most of the pesticides will be gone. They won’t make it into your garden. 

If you’re really concerned about introducing pesticides into your compost, you can buy organic citrus fruits. These are not pesticide free but they will not have been treated with synthetic or chemical pesticides. This way, you will introduce fewer chemicals into your compost. Of course, organic fruit is more expensive. 

Citrus and Mold

Some gardeners are concerned that citrus will mold in their compost. Penicillium molds tend to grow on citrus. You wouldn’t want this in your compost. 

Luckily, mold is rarely a problem when composting citrus. There are two main reasons for this. First, a well-managed compost pile will be too hot for penicillium molds to survive. These molds prefer cooler environments. 

Second, most citrus fruits are coated with an antimicrobial wax. This is necessary to prevent citrus from molding while it’s being transported or waiting to be sold. The coating shouldn’t effect your compost but it should be strong enough to prevent the peels from molding. 

If your citrus is already moldy, it’s probably best not to put it in your compost, just to be safe. It’s unlikely to cause any issues. Hot compost will kill the mold. It’s really up to you whether you want to use it or not.

Vermicomposting and Citrus (Worm Composting)

Generally, it’s best not to put citrus in your worm bin. There are a couple of reasons for this. First, worms don’t like citrus. They usually won’t eat a fresh citrus peel. They will wait for it to start decomposing before they start processing it. This means it will take longer to decompose. 

There is also a belief that citrus will kill worms because it is acidic. This really isn’t the case unless the acidity in the vermicompost becomes too high. Adding a few citrus peels to your worm compost won’t harm the worms. If you only use citrus once in a while, you can add it to your vermicompost but it’s best not to. Citrus works best in regular compost pile. 

Why Use Citrus in Your Compost?

Citrus can be great for your compost. It is considered a green material in composting. Green materials contain high concentrations of nitrogen or proteins. Citrus contains nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. These elements help fuel the beneficial organisms that break down the compost. This helps your compost bin heat up, which speeds up decomposition. 

The odor of the citrus can also deter some pests. They may not be used to the smell. Rats, mice voles, raccoons, gophers, and other scavengers will be less likely to dig through your compost bin if you add citrus. It may not keep them all away but it will act as a deterrent. Even if these critters do dig through your compost, the citrus won’t cause them any harm. Some insects also do not like citrus. Citrus could draw fruit flies.

Using citrus in your compost is also environmentally friendly. Composting citrus keeps it out of the landfill. It will just return back to the earth. Organic matter can take a long time to degrade in the landfill. It gets covered the undergoes anaerobic decomposition, which releases harmful greenhouse gasses into the atmosphere. Composting your citrus peels at home is much more eco friendly. 

Composting itself also has plenty of benefits. It helps reduce erosion. The compost absorbs moisture, which helps to prevent soil from washing away during a storm. Compost also provides essential nutrients for your plants. This will help with plant growth. Yields will improve. Compost will also help retain soil moisture. This way, your plants stay hydrated and you won’t have to water as frequently. This saves you time and money on your water bill. 

How to Compost Citrus

1. Dry the citrus peelings- Place the peels on a rack and set them out in the sun or put them in the oven on low heat. This will allow some of the oils to evaporate away. If you have a really active compost pile, you can skip this step if you choose. 
2. Cut the peels up- Use a knife to slice the peels into smaller pieces. If you’re composting whole citrus, cut them into small pieces. This will create more surface area for decomposers to eat away on. This will speed up decomposition.
3. Add the citrus to your compost bin or pile- You can add it on the top or mix it in. I like to create a little hole in the center and add my citrus. This will be the hottest part of the compost. The citrus will decompose faster here. 
4. Add other ingredients as necessary- Compost is made from a mix of nitrogen-rich materials and carbon-rich materials (called greens and browns). The ideal ratio is 2-3 parts brown for 1 part green. You’ll want to add some other items along with your citrus peels f the balance is off. Citrus peels are considered a green material. Some brown materials you could add include dry leaves, shredded newspaper, cardboard, sawdust, wood chips, pine needles, etc. These materials will help absorb any excess moisture from the citrus. They will also help neutralize the compost. You’ll also want to add some other green materials such as food scraps, fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, egg shells, grass clippings, etc. 
5. Mix and water the compost periodically- You want to keep the compost aerated and moist but not too wet. Every 3-4 days, use a shovel or pitchfork to mix your compost. When your compost dries out, give it some water. The microorganisms need water and air to decompose the citrus and other ingredients. 
6. Keep an eye on your compost- If the citrus is taking too long to decompose or if it is affecting the pH too much, stop composting citrus. You could also remove the peels that aren’t breaking down. Alternatively, you could add some alkaline materials to neutralize the acidity. 

When to Compost Citrus

Because citrus decomposes slowly, it’s best to compost it when your bin is hot and active. Hot composting is the best method to use. Microorganisms heat up the compost through their activity, which speeds up decomposition. You can add citrus to cold compost but will take a long time to decompose. Microorganisms will still work but they will work more slowly. If your compost is not active, you may not want to add citrus.

How Long Does Citrus Take to Decompose?

Citrus will decompose in around 6 weeks in an active compost pile. That’s a bit longer than most other types of food waste. In a cold compost pile, it could take closer to 6 months. In some cases, citrus peels can take over a year to decompose. Cold composting isn’t ideal for citrus. 

Can You Compost Citrus Seeds?

Yes. If you have a hot and active compost pile, you can add the seeds. They are organic waste. The heat will kill them. If you have a cold compost pile, it’s best not to put the seeds in because they could sprout and start growing. Even if this happens, it’s not that big of a deal, you can just pick the sprouts out or turn the compost and they will likely die off and turn into compost. In cooler climates, the sprouts won’t really grow. 

My Experience

I always compost my citrus. I compost orange peels and lemons that I’ve squeezed. Usually, I just cut them up and put them in my compost bin. Sometimes, I’ll set them out to dry for a bit. My compost is pretty active so they decompose fairly quickly. Usually, they’re gone in 6-8 weeks depending on the season. 

You can compost citrus. Lemon peels, lime peels, orange peels, and grapefruit peels will all break down in your compost. Before adding them, let them dry out a bit and cut them up into small pieces. They will break down and add valuable nutrients to your compost.

You will want to add them in moderation because citrus is acidic. Mixing the citrus with other organic materials will help keep your compost neutral. Citrus can make a great addition to your compost. Whether or not you decide to compost your citrus, I hope this guide makes the composting process a little easier. 

Do you put citrus in your compost? Share your experience in the comments below!

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The post Can You Put Citrus Peels in Your Compost Pile? appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

Wood chips are attractive, long lasting, and durable type of mulch. They also help reduce soil erosion and regulate soil temperature. Mulch usually adds more nutrients and organic matter to the soil. It also does a better job of retaining soil moisture. Wood chips work great in flower beds and around trees and bushes in the front yard where people will see them. Organic mulches are better for vegetable gardens. 

What are Wood Chips?

Wood chips are made from wood that has been ground up with a wood chipper. Wood chips can be made from any type of wood. Softwoods like cedar, cypress, and pine trees are common. Hardwood mulch made from oak or hemlock is also popular. Usually, they are made from the whole tree including the branches, stumps, bark, and even roots. Sometimes, they just contain wood from the trunk and branches. 

Wood chips come in a range of colors. Usually, they are the natural color of the tree. Dyed wood chips are also available. They come in red, black, yellow, and other colors. Wood chips also come in a range of sizes from large chunks to small chips. Most wood chips are 15-45mm long.

Other Types of Mulch

Wood chips are just one type of mulch. Other common types of mulch include bark, shredded wood, pine needles, shredded leaves, leaf mold, compost, grass clippings, straw, and hay. Inorganic mulches include pea gravel, lava rock, shredded rubber, landscape fabric, and plastic sheeting. 

You don’t have to use one type of mulch in your garden. Sometimes one mulch is better than another for a specific application. For example, compost may be the best option for your vegetable garden while wood chips may be the better option around a tree.

Pros of Wood Chip Mulch

• They are attractive- One of the biggest benefits of wood chips is their looks. They have a nice uniform appearance. They have the same size, color, and texture. They are also available in different colors to suit different home colors and landscape designs. In addition, they create a nice contrast between your garden beds, your home, and your lawn. They can really tie your garden beds together and improve the curb appeal of your home. This is the main reason I like using wood chips in my front yard. 
• Long lasting- Wood chips are one of the longest lasting types of organic mulch. On average, a thick layer of wood chips lasts 3-4 years. Some varieties, like cedar chips, can last 5-7 years because they degrade slowly. To compare, most regular mulches need a fresh layer every 1-2 years. The longevity of wood chips saves you time and money. 
• They reduce erosion- Wood chips absorb quite a bit of moisture. They also help hold the soil in place. This reduces erosion. Less soil and nutrients will wash away when it rains when you don’t leave bare soil.
• Temperature regulation- Wood chips help insulate the soil. They keep the soil cooler during the summer by creating shade. They also keep the soil warmer during the winter by creating a barrier between the soil and the snow and ice. This can extended the growing season slightly. In addition, they insulate to minimize temperature swings between the day and night. This reduces stress on your plant’s roots. This is important if you live in a region with extreme temperatures.
• They are widely available- Wood chips are one of the most common types of mulch. They are available at every home and garden store and nursery. You can buy them by the yard or in plastic bags. Sometimes, you can even get free wood chips from tree removal companies. 
• Moisture retention- Wood chips help the soil retain moisture longer by reducing evaporation. They achieve this by shading the soil and blocking the wind. They also absorb some moisture. This helps your plants stay hydrated. It also helps with water conservation. You won’t have to water your garden as frequently. You’ll also save money on your water bill.
• Weed control- Wood chips act as a weed barrier. They prevent weed seeds that blow in or get dropped by birds from reaching the soil. They also block the sunlight from the soil so existing weed seeds have a harder time germinating and growing. Weeds struggle to push through several inches of heavy wood chips. Some weeds will still grow but you won’t have to weed nearly as much when you mulch with wood chips.
• Resistant to soil compaction- Wood chips don’t compact when you walk on them. They also block the impact of heavy rain from compacting your soil. Your soil will stay looser as a result. Your plant roots can spread more easily when the soil isn’t compacted. Air and water also have an easier time passing through the soil. This is important because plant roots need oxygen and water.
• They improve the soil quality- Wood chips aren’t the most nutrient rich mulch but they do add some nutrients to the soil as they degrade. They contain small amounts of calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, and zinc. You won’t have to use as much fertilizer if you apply wood chips. They also add organic matter to the soil. This increases soil mass and help the soil retain more moisture. 
• Wood chips are safe- If you’re looking for a safe mulch, playground wood chips are one of the best options. They provide cushioning if a child were to fall on them. They are designed to be splinter free and hypoallergenic. If you’re looking for a safe mulch to use under a swing set or jungle gym, wood chips are one of the best options. For more info, check out my guide to playground playground mulch.
• Wood chips are environmentally friendly- Wood chips are made from organic material. They degrade away over time. They don’t add any toxins or chemicals to your soil. Usually, they are a byproduct of tree removal and pruning. Sometimes they are made from recycled wood or waste wood. Trees usually aren’t harvested for wood chips. Using wood chips as mulch keeps them out of the landfill. You do have to be careful about where you source your wood chips. You’ll want to make sure they are organic. Some wood chips are made from waste wood or recycled wood that could have been treated with various chemicals, such as preservatives. It’s best not to put these in your garden.

Cons of Wood Chips

• Wood chips can attract some pests- Wood chips can attract termites. For this reason, you shouldn’t put wood chips right up against your home. To avoid infestations, leave a gap of at least a few inches. They can also attract carpenter ants. Some types of rodents can nest in wood chips. Snakes could also nest in them. To avoid attracting pests, consider using cedar mulch or cypress mulch. Cedar contains oils that can actually repel pests. 
• They can make the soil more acidic- Wood chips can increase the acidity or lower the pH of your soil. The pH decrease is usually pretty negligible. It may be worth considering if you already have acidic soil or if you need to maintain neutral or alkaline soil for specific plants. 
• Nitrogen depletion- Wood chips can temporarily deplete the nitrogen in the soil. This is because microbes need nitrogen to fuel their activity to break the wood down. They take this nitrogen from the surrounding soil. This temporarily reduces the nitrogen on the soil surface. This could cause a nitrogen deficiency. Particularly if the wood chips get mixed in with the soil. This nitrogen depletion is only temporary. As the mulch decomposes and the bacteria die off, the nitrogen is released back into the garden soil. This is an issue with all types of wood mulch. To avoid this, you shouldn’t till wood chips into your soil.
• They don’t add many nutrients to the soil- Wood chips will add some nutrients as they degrade but the amount is pretty negligible. This is because wood degrades slowly. They also don’t contain as many nutrients as other types of mulch such as compost.
• It could be a fire hazard- Wood chips can burn easily when they’re dry. If you live in an area that is susceptible to wildfires, it’s best not to use them near your house or any other structures. 
• They can be expensive- On average, wood chips cost around $85 per cubic yard. You may be able to get them for cheap or free if you know someone who is getting some trees removed. Sometimes local tree companies will give away wood chips. There are cheaper mulch options. 
• They can be a choking hazard for dogs- Some dogs will try to eat or chew on wood chips. Some wood chips can contain treatments or dyes that could be harmful to your dogs. If you notice your dogs chewing on your wood chips, try to train them to leave them alone. 

Pros of Mulch

• There are many different types of mulch to choose from- Wood chips are one type of mulch. Other options include bark, shredded leaves, grass clippings, pine needles, straw, hay, compost, and manure. Inorganic materials such as rock or rubber can also be used as mulch. Sometimes one mulch is better than another. Some mulches are cheaper than others. Some provide more benefits for your plants and soil. One mulch may be more attractive than another. Wood chips aren’t always the best choice. 
• There are free mulch options- You don’t always have to spend money to buy mulch. You can often use yard waste as mulch. For example, grass clippings, shredded leaves, and pine needles all make excellent mulch. If you don’t have these in your own yard, you can ask your neighbors. Chances are, they will be happy to give you some of their yard waste. 
• Mulch adds nutrients to your garden- Organic mulches contain valuable nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. Most mulches contain more nutrients than wood chips. They also decay faster because the pieces are smaller. Grass clippings, shredded leaves, and straw all decay quickly. As the mulch degrades, it releases these nutrients into your garden. These nutrients improve soil fertility and support plant growth. They are also beneficial to microorganisms living in the soil. These microorganisms help break down organic matter to make the nutrients available for your plants. For this reason, organic mulch is better for smaller plants and new plants. 
• Moisture retention- Some types of mulch do a better job of retaining moisture than wood chips. If you live in a dry climate or an area that is susceptible to drought, you may be better off using leaves, straw, or compost. 
• Weed suppression- Pretty much all types of mulch can help suppress weed growth. Keeping the weeds down is one of the main reasons people mulch. Some of the best mulches for weed suppression include bark chips, leaves, and rock mulches. Landscape fabric can also be used under mulch to help keep the weeds down. 
• Erosion reduction- Mulch helps hold the soil in place so it doesn’t wash away during heavy storms. It also helps prevent nutrients from washing out. 
• Reduces soil compaction- Mulch provides cushioning from heavy rain, sprinklers, or foot traffic. When the soil stays looser, your plant’s roots can spread more easily.
• Environmentally friendly- Organic mulch degrades over time. It doesn’t introduce anything toxic into your soil. Using free mulches is great for the environment because it keeps these materials out of the landfill. 

Cons of Mulch

• You have to re-apply more frequently- Most organic mulches don’t last as long as wood chips. On average, you’ll have to apply a fresh layer of mulch every year or every other year. Some mulches, like straw or grass clippings, will need a fresh layer of material multiple times per year. This adds more work for you. The cost can also add up. There are also mulches that last longer than wood chips. For example, rock mulch or rubber mulch can easily last a decade or more. 
• Not as attractive- Most mulches don’t look as good as wood chips because they are less uniform or the color isn’t as nice. For example, pine straw can look kind of messy and it can turn gray as it ages. Hay will make your garden look like a farm. Rock is kind of bland. Wood chips are one of the most beautiful mulches in my opinion. 
• Safety- Some types of mulch might not be as safe as wood chips. They may not provide as much fall protection if a child were to fall on them while playing. Some people may be allergic to some types of mulch. Some mulches may be more likely to contain fungi or various diseases. Some mulches might cause slivers. They may not be comfortable to walk on barefoot. 
• Pests and disease- Some types of mulch can attract pests. For example, rodents and snakes can burrow in straw and hay mulch. Compost can attract insects. Some mulches are also more susceptible to disease. Grass clippings and leaves can create perfect conditions for various fungi to grow. Mold can be a serious issue. Compost can also carry disease if you don’t take some precautions. Wood chips can also attract pests and disease but it’s unlikely. They are generally a pretty clean type of mulch. 
• Can be expensive- Some types of mulch are more expensive than wood chips. For example, rock mulch is usually more expensive. It does last longer so the annual cost is around the same. 
• Some types of mulch can be displaced easily- Lightweight mulches like straw and hay can be blown around in the wind. Some mulches float. This is a potential problem with pine bark mulch nuggets. If your flower beds flood, they can float away. Some mulches can also migrate downhill. This can be a problem with pine straw. It doesn’t work well on slopes. 

Wood Chips Vs Bark Mulch

These are two of the most popular mulches. Bark mulch is made only of the tree bark that has been stripped off and chipped into small pieces. Wood chips are only made from wood from the trunk and tree branches. Both can work well in flower beds, around trees and shrubs, and on walkways. 

Bark mulch comes in a range of textures from large bark nuggets to finely ground bark dust.* The different textures offer different aesthetics. Bark mulch is usually darker in color than wood chips. Some people prefer the look of bark mulch. 

Both bark mulch and wood chips perform similarly. There are a few main differences. Bark mulch can stay in place better than wood chips. It won’t slide around as much on an incline. Bark tends to float away more easily than wood chips if your garden floods during a storm. Wood chips don’t wash away as easily. Bark mulch is resistant to compaction.  

Wood Chips Vs Shredded Wood Mulch

These are similar mulches because they are made from the same material. Wood chips are made by running wood through a wood chipper. It cuts the wood into small chunks. Shredded wood is made by running the wood through a shredder. This results in smaller pieces with a shredded texture. Wood can be double shredded or triple shredded. This results in finer shreds. 

Both wood chips and shredded wood perform similarly. Shredded wood decays faster than wood chips because there is more surface area for the decomposers to work on. This allows shredded wood to release more nutrients into the soil. It does decay faster so it won’t last as long as wood chips. Shredded wood also absorbs more moisture than wood chips. 

The appearance is different as well. The smaller pieces of shredded wood can look more uniform. Different colors are available. Some shredded wood is dyed. Shredded wood can look nice in flower gardens. 

My Experience

I use wood chips in my front yard because I like the way they look in my flower beds. They have a nice uniform look and dark color that ties my garden beds together. They also contrast nicely with my home and lawn. I think they improve the curb appeal of my home. I also like that they are long-lasting and low-maintenance. 

In my backyard, I don’t use wood chips in my vegetable garden. Instead, I usually use free mulches like pine needles, shredded leaves, compost, or grass clippings. I prefer these materials for my vegetable gardens because they contain more nutrients. Of course, I also appreciate that they’re free. 

Pretty much all types of mulch will help keep the weeds down, retain moisture, insulate your soil, and reduce erosion. Wood chips are beautiful, durable, and long-lasting. They can be an excellent choice for flower beds. Organic mulches provide more nutrients for your plants as they degrade. The best mulch really depends on what you’re trying to achieve. Hopefully, this guide helps you choose the best mulch for your garden. 

Do you use wood chips in your garden? Share your experience in the comments below!

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The post Wood Chips Vs Mulch: What’s the Difference and Pros and Cons appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

What is Soil pH and Why is it Important?

pH is a measurement of how acidic or basic a substance is. It measures the concentration of hydrogen ions to determine acidity. The pH scale runs from 0-14. 7 is a neutral pH. Anything below 7 is acidic. Anything above 7 is alkaline or basic. Acid loving plants usually prefer a pH range of 4.5-5.5. 

It’s important to note that the pH scale is not linear, it’s logarithmic. Each number represents a 10x change. For example, soil with a pH of 5 is 10x more acidic than a pH of 6. It’s important to remember this when adding a pH amendment to your soil. You don’t want to double the amount of peat moss to double the change in pH. 

The soil pH can affect a plant’s ability to take in nutrients from the soil. Certain nutrients may become more or less available for the plant depending on the pH. For example, zinc, iron, and manganese become more available when the pH is lower. A plant can become deficient in certain micronutrients if the pH is too high or too low. Iron deficiency is common. Oftentimes, you can correct these nutrient deficiencies by changing the pH of the soil rather than adding more nutrients to the soil. 

What is Peat Moss?

Peat moss is Sphagnum moss that has been sitting in a bog for hundreds or thousands of years. Sphagnum decays extremely slowly due to the structure of the cell wall. Bogs also create anaerobic decomposition conditions because there is a lack of oxygen. This is a slower type of decomposition than aerobic decay. Peat moss also acidifies its surroundings, which also slows decomposition. 

Peat moss is harvested from bogs, where it has been accumulating and decaying for thousands of years. It is organic matter. It is often used as a soil amendment. Peat moss can be used to increase the acidity of soil. In addition, it helps retain moisture and helps aerate the soil. You can use peat moss in your garden soil or potting mix. 

Does Peat Moss Acidify Soil?

Yes. Peat moss does make your soil more acidic. The best peat moss for acidifying soil is Canadian sphagnum peat moss. It has a pH of 3.0- 4.5. This will effectively lower the pH of your soil. To compare, neutral soil has a pH of 7. Alkaline soil usually has a pH of around 7.5-8. 

Peat moss isn’t always the best way to lower the pH of your soil. Sometimes it isn’t very strong. Most peat moss has a pH of around 5.5. It will really only increase the acidity slightly. Some peat moss found in garden centers is actually almost neutral. 

There are stronger options available. If you really need to make your soil more acidic, you may also have to add some sulfur to your soil. More on that later.

Why Use Peat Moss?

In many places, the natural soil is slightly alkaline. This is often the case when the soil contains lots of limestone. Most plants prefer soil that is neutral to slightly acidic. If your soil is too alkaline, many plants won’t grow well. 

One way to solve this issue is to use peat moss to amend the soil. The peat moss will neutralize the limestone. If you add enough, it will make the soil more acidic. You can mix it with your natural soil or potting soil. 

The use of peat moss isn’t necessary for every garden. Some soil is naturally acidic. By adding peat moss, you could make your soil too acidic for some plants. There are also plants that prefer alkaline soil. 

Before adding peat moss to your soil, it’s a good idea to test the pH. You can pay for a soil test. Some cities offer free or discounted soil testing. You just have to send in some soil samples. You could also buy a pH tester online or at your local garden center. 

How Much Peat Moss Do You Need?

The amount of peat moss you’ll need to lower your soil’s pH depends on a number of factors including the current pH of your soil, the target pH, the type of soil you have (sandy soil, loamy soil, clay soil, etc.), and the amount of soil. It’s hard to say exactly how much peat moss you’ll need.

You will need quite a bit of peat moss to lower the pH. It’s not a very strong amendment. You could start with 10-20% of the volume of the soil then test the pH and add more as needed. This would be a good place to start. Chances are, you’ll need a lot more than that. To decrease the pH, you’ll likely need a peat moss to soil ratio of 1:3. 1 part peat moss and 3 parts soil. In some cases, you may need as much as 1:1 ratio. 

If you need to change the pH substantially, you’re better off just using a little bit of peat moss and also using a stronger soil amendment such as elemental sulfur or aluminum sulfate.

How to Add Peat Moss To Your Soil?

Start by soaking the dry peat moss in some tap water for a few minutes and allowing it to hydrate. If you choose, you can add a little bit of liquid fertilizer to the water. This will enrich the peat moss with some nutrients. Squeeze out any excess water. 

Next mix the peat moss into the top layer of soil. You could mix it in a bucket or just use a shovel to loosen the soil and mix the peat moss in. Alternatively, you can add a layer of peat moss to the top of the soil, like you would add a layer of mulch. Over time, the peat moss will degrade and naturally acidify the soil. 

Other Ways to Acidify Soil

Peat moss isn’t the only option. Elemental sulfur and aluminum sulfate are the most common soil additives used decrease the pH of soil. 

Between these two, elemental sulfur is the safer option. It is commonly available at garden centers and farm supply stores. The drawback is that it takes a long time to work. The soil also needs to be active and warm. It usually takes 3-6 months for the sulfur to decrease the pH.

Aluminum sulfate works much faster. It will lower the pH of your soil in just a few days or weeks. The drawback is that you have to apply much more of it. It also adds aluminum to your soil, which is toxic to plants. 

Another option is ammonium sulfate. This is commonly used on farms. It is used as a fertilizer to add nitrogen to the soil. It can also slowly decrease the pH. 

Benefits of Peat Moss

• Peat moss is an excellent soil additive- It can help neutralize alkaline soil or make your soil more acidic if you’re trying to grow acid-loving plants. 
• Peat moss helps the soil retain more moisture- It is a spongy material. It soaks up water and then slowly releases it. This water retention helps your plants stay hydrated. You also won’t have to use as much water and you won’t have to water as frequently. This saves you money on your water bill and saves you time. 
• Prevents soil compaction- Peat moss helps aerate your soil. It is lightweight and kind of spongy in texture. It helps create air pockets in the soil. This is helpful because your plant roots need oxygen. The roots can also spread more easily when the soil is loose. When the soil becomes compacted, your plants may not get enough water, air, or nutrients to their roots. 
• It holds nutrients- Peat moss can prevent essential nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus from leaching out of the soil or being washed out when you water. It soaks up these nutrients and holds on to them, just like it soaks up moisture. 
• Peat moss is sterilized before it is shipped- It won’t contain any weed seeds, fungi, bacteria, or disease that could infect your plants. This makes it perfectly safe to use. It’s a great choice for starting seeds. 
• Helps reduce erosion- The peat moss can soak up some moisture and help prevent runoff. This helps the soil stay in place and prevents nutrients from getting washed out. 
• It’s natural- Peat moss is a completely natural material. It only contains organic materials. It doesn’t add any chemicals or contaminants to your soil. Over time, it will decay away. 
• Long lasting- Peat moss decays pretty slowly. One application will last 2-3 years. 
• Fast acting- After you apply peat moss, the pH of the soil will start decline within a couple of weeks. You don’t have to wait too long to plant.

Drawbacks of Peat Moss

The biggest drawback of peat moss is that it isn’t sustainable. It takes hundreds and hundreds of years for peat moss to regenerate after it is harvested. It is being overharvested in many places because it’s so valuable. People love using it in their gardens.

The problem is that, once it’s gone, it won’t come back in our lifetimes. Technically, it is renewable because it will regenerate naturally. Practically, it is a non-renewable resource because it takes so long to generate. 

This is a problem because removing the peat moss destroys natural habitat for many birds and insects. Mining of peat moss can also release carbon into the atmosphere. Peat fields or bogs are drained to mine peat moss. They can dry out and catch fire. When they burn, carbon that accumulated there for thousands of years can be released into the atmosphere. This makes peat moss harvesting potentially harmful to the environment. It could contribute to global warming. Some countries have started to restrict or ban the harvest of peat moss to help preserve the peatlands. 

Another drawback of peat moss is that is’t fairly expensive. It costs around $4-$5 per cubic foot. That’s around three times the price of other popular soil amendments like compost, manure, or bark mulch. It’s expensive because it needs to be shipped internationally. Most peat moss that is sold in the United States comes from sphagnum peat bogs in Canada. 

Peat moss also doesn’t contain many nutrients. You can’t grow directly in peat moss. You need some other type of growing medium. If you soil is low in nutrients, you may need to add some compost or slow release fertilizer along with the peat moss.  

Peat moss can also be too acidic for some types of garden plants. You won’t want to treat all of your soil with it. Particularly if you already have acidic soil. You’ll only want to use it if your soil is too alkaline or if you want to grow some acid loving plants. 

Some Other Common Soil Amendment Options

There are some alternative soil amendments that can be used to lower the pH of your soil slightly. Coconut coir is one popular option. Coco coir is a type of peat that’s made from coconut. Pine needles and pine bark can also be used.

These materials are not as acidic as peat moss but they could help to acidify the soil slightly. They can also help with water retention and erosion reduction. They perform similarly to peat moss.

My Experience

A few years back, I did a soil test and found that my soil was slightly alkaline. I wanted to plant some blueberries on my homestead and was worried that they wouldn’t grow well because the soil pH was too high. 

After some research, I decided to try amending the soil with peat moss. I liked that it is a natural material. When I can avoid it, I don’t like adding chemicals to my soil when I can avoid it. I added some peat moss to the soil where I planned to plant my blueberries. After a couple of weeks, I tested the soil again and found that the pH had dropped. It wasn’t substantial but it had certainly dropped. I decided to add a little more before planting my blueberries. They’re still growing fine to this day. 

Peat moss can be used to increase the acidity of your soil. It’s not the fastest or most efficient way to lower the pH but it can work. If you need to lower the pH more substantially, elemental sulfur or aluminum sulfate are also great soil amendments. 

Peat moss has many benefits in addition to increasing soil acidity. It helps retain moisture and nutrients, reduce soil compaction, and reduce erosion. It’s also safe to use because it is sterile and natural. The main drawback of peat moss is that it isn’t sustainable because it takes many years to replenish itself. It is being overharvested in parts of the world. It’s also fairly expensive. 

Have you used peat moss to lower the pH of your soil? Share your experience in the comments below!

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The post Does Peat Moss Make Soil Acidic + Pros and Cons appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

Can You Compost Pine Needles?

Yes. You can compost pine needles. They are completely organic. They will break down over time in your compost bin. Once they’ve decomposed, you can use the compost in your flower beds and vegetable garden. They make fine compost.

Ideally, pine needles should never make up more than 10% of your compost pile. The reason is that pine needles break down extremely slowly. Pine needles decompose slowly because they have a waxy coating. This coating is designed to protect the needles during the cold winter months. Bacteria and other decomposers have a hard time processing the coating. 

There are a couple of ways to speed up the decomposition process. Mixing pine needles with other materials that break down faster can help speed up the decomposition. The faster decomposing materials will help heat the compost and promote microbial activity to make the composting process faster. Some materials you can mix with the pine needles include grass clippings, kitchen waste, shredded leaves, newspaper, and coffee grounds.

Another way to speed up the decomposition process is to break the pine needles up into smaller pieces. This increases the surface area. It also helps break up the waxy coating. This way, there will be more area for the decomposers to work on. This greatly increases the rate of decomposition. 

Pine needles aren’t the best material for composting but you can use them. If you have pine trees on your property, you might as well add some of the fallen needles to your compost bin. They add some nutrients and organic matter to your compost.

You can also compost pine cones. They take a long time to break down unless they are ground up into smaller pieces. 

Do Pine Needles Make Your Compost Acidic?

A common misconception is that pine needles make soil acidic (lower the pH of the soil). There is some truth to this. Fresh green pine needles are acidic. They usually have a pH of 3.2-3.8. They may lower the pH level of your compost slightly. 

As pine needles age and start to break down, they quickly become neutral. Decomposing pine needles have a pH of 5.6-6. To compare, a pH of 7 is neutral. Most finished compost has a pH of 6-8. It can be slightly acidic, neutral, or slightly alkaline, depending on which feedstock was used.

Most plants prefer soil that has a neutral pH to slightly acidic. Soil that is too acidic can affect the health of your plants. If your soil is already acidic, adding pine needles could make it slightly more acidic. The change is usually negligible. If you are growing plants that prefer alkaline soil, you may be better off not using compost that was made from pine needles. Even then, the compost is unlikely to have any harmful effect. 

There are some plants that prefer acidic soil. Acid-loving plants are known as ericaceous plants. Some gardeners keep two separate compost piles. One for regular materials and one for acidic materials. The acidic compost is great for plants that prefer acidic soil. Some examples include Rhododendron, Camellia, and Azalea. Pine needles work great in acidic compost.

If you’re concerned about the pH of your soil, you can test it with a soil pH meter. These are available on Amazon and in garden centers. You could also pay for a soil test. Many companies offer them. You just mail in a soil sample and wait for the results.

How to Compost Pine Needles

To make good compost, you need a good mix of compost materials. Compost is made from a mix of ‘green’ and ‘brown’ materials.

Greens are high in nitrogen. They also have a high moisture content. They decompose quickly. Some examples of greens in compost include grass clippings, coffee grounds, kitchen scraps, etc.

Browns have a high carbon content. They take a longer time to decompose. These materials help provide structure for your compost so air can circulate through it. Examples of browns include pine needles, dry leaves, and newspaper.

Generally, a good ratio for your compost mix is 3:1. 3 parts brown feedstocks for every 1 part green feedstocks. You could also use a 2:1 ratio or even a 1:1 ratio.

To make compost, you also need oxygen and moisture. Oxygen and moisture are necessary for the compost to undergo aerobic decomposition.

Once in a while, you’ll have to mix your compost to oxygenate it. You’ll also have to add some water so it doesn’t dry out. Maintaining the proper amount of oxygen and water will speed up the decomposition process. 

Pine needles are considered a brown material in composting. They provide a good amount of structure. The rigid needles help create air pockets in the compost. They are also high in carbon and low in nitrogen.  

The best method for composting pine needles is the hot composting method. Hot composting speeds up decomposition. The heat is generated by microorganisms that are breaking down the material.

When selecting pine needles to add to your compost, try to add the older, dry needles first. They will be less acidic than fresh pine needles. They also may have already started to decompose. This will speed up the decomposition process. If you only have fresh needles, consider letting them age before adding them to your compost.

To compost pine needles:

1. Shred the pine needles- Whole pine needles take a long time to break down. Shredding them will increase the surface area and speed up the decomposition process. If you can’t shred them, you can still use them. Just know that they won’t compost as quickly. 
2. Add the pine needles to your compost bin or pile- When you first start composting pine needles, start out with a small amount to see how they work. Ideally, pine needles shouldn’t make up more than about 10% of your compost. This will make for a healthy compost pile. If they work well, you can increase the amount of pine needles if you choose. 
3. Mix regularly- You want to keep your compost aerated. Ideally, you should mix your compost every 3-4 days. If you don’t, it can start undergoing anaerobic decomposition if there isn’t enough oxygen. This is not ideal. It can cause your compost to stink. It will also become too acidic.
4. Monitor the moisture level- Your compost needs to stay moist. During the summer, it will dry out quickly. You may need to spray it with the hose every couple of days. At the same time, you don’t want your compost to be too wet and sloppy or it could attract pests or start to mold. 

How to Shred Pine Needles

Before adding pine needles to your compost, it’s a good idea to shred them. This will help break up the waxy cuticle coating. It will also increase the surface area available for decomposers to work on. There are a few ways to shred pine needles including:

1. Use your lawn mower- Just lay them in a layer on your lawn and mow over them. You may need to mix them a couple of times to hit them all. 
2. Use a leaf shredder or a wood chipper- You can collect the shredded needles in a bucket and add them directly to your compost bin. You can also shred pine cones and compost them if your shredder is capable. 
3. Use a leaf blower- Some leaf blowers are capable of shredding pine needles. The motor reverses and sucks the pine needles up and shreds them with a blade. They are then collected in a bag. 

Why Compost Pine Needles?

Composting is a good way to get rid of pine needles. If you have pine trees on your property, you’ll have a lot of them. A Ponderosa Pine tree drops ¼-⅓ of its needles every year. Usually in the fall. If you compost part of them, you’ll have fewer to get rid of. 

It’s also best not to leave a thick layer of pine needles on your property because they can be a fire hazard. When pine needles catch fire, they burn quickly. If you live in an area where wildfires are a problem, it’s best to remove pine needles. Once they’re composted, they are less of a fire hazard. 

Another nice thing about pine needles is that they are a clean material. They are completely natural. You know they weren’t treated with any chemicals. Of course, they are also free and widely available. 

Pine needles also aren’t that attractive. They can be kind of an eyesore when they’re lying around on your property. When you compost them, they just look like soil.

Of course, the biggest benefit is that you get to use the nutrient-rich compost in your garden. Using compost is a great way to improve plant growth.

Drawbacks of Composting Pine Needles

The biggest drawback of composting pine needles is that they take longer to break down than other materials such as leaves or grass clippings. If you shred the pine needles, they should break down in around 3-4 months. If you have a hot and active compost bin, they may break down in as little as 6 weeks. They could take longer if your compost is less active. 

Another potential drawback is that pine needles aren’t very nutrient-rich. They are mostly made of carbon with a small amount of nitrogen. The carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is around 100:1. You will need to mix in some high nitrogen green materials in with the pine needles to make quality compost. 

Compost made with pine needles may also be slightly more acidic than average. By the time it’s ready to use, it will be very close to neutral. 

Using Pine Needles as Mulch

You don’t have to compost pine needles before you use them in your garden. You can just use them as mulch. They make a great ground cover. Apply a layer 3-4” deep in your garden around your plants. When used as mulch, pine needles are often referred to as pine straw.

The pine needles will help with moisture retention by reducing evaporation. They will also help suppress weed growth by blocking weed seeds. Pine needles will also insulate the garden soil from the heat and cold. In addition, they will also reduce evaporation and soil compaction. Over time, they will break down and add some nutrients and organic matter to the soil, just like they would when making compost. They don’t contain as many nutrients as other types of mulch but they are still beneficial. 

Mulching saves some time. You don’t have to wait for the pine needles to break down in your compost. You can use them immediately. Before using pine needles as mulch, you should allow them to age a little bit. Aged pine needles aren’t as acidic. The pine needle mulch will last a long time.

It’s best not to use pine needles as mulch near your home in case of fire. They can be a fire hazard. They also aren’t ideal for use on slopes because they can become slippery when they’re wet. 

For more in-depth info, check out my guide: Using Pine Needles as Mulch.

Composting Pine Cones

You can also compost pine cones. They decompose very slowly. You will want to find a way to break them up into small pieces to speed up the decomposition process.

Pine cones can be difficult to shred because they are so tough. Most leaf shredders and wood chippers are capable of shredding pine cones. If you don’t have a shredder, you can break them up with a hammer if you don’t have too many. 

Once the pine cones are broken up, you can add them to your compost or use them as mulch. They will break down and add nutrients and organic materials, just like pine needles. They will likely take a few months to decompose. Pine cones can make fine compost or mulch.

My Experience

I have several large pine trees on my property. They produce tons of pine needles. I usually rake the needles around the base of the trees. Once in a while, I collect some to add to my compost. I have a leaf shredder I use to shred them into smaller pieces before I add them. They break down surprisingly quickly. Within about 3 months, the compost is ready to use. Even if the pine needles aren’t completely broken down, I can still use the compost. The partially decomposed needles improve the soil structure. I also use some pine needles as mulch so I don’t have bare ground in my garden.

Pine needles can make quality compost. There is nothing wrong with using them. They will add essential nutrients to your compost. They are a great source of organic matter. The main drawback is that they take longer to break down than other materials. The decomposition rate of pine needles is slow. You can speed up the process by breaking them into smaller pieces. If you don’t want to wait, you can use them as mulch. They will break down over time in your garden. Whether or not you decide to compost pine needles, I hope this guide has helped you in making your decision. 

Do you compost pine needles? Share your experience in the comments below!

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The post How to Compost Pine Needles and Use Them as Mulch appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

The best type of mulch for weed control depends on where you’re mulching, the climate, your budget, and your personal preference. Wood chips and bark mulch are some of the best options. If you’re on a tight budget, pine needles, grass clippings, and shredded leaves are good options. If you’re looking for an inorganic mulch, gravel can also work well. Black landscape fabric is also an option. 

The Best Mulch to Control Weeds

Pretty much all mulches will help keep the weeds down but some work better than others. Some of the best mulches for weed control include:

• Shredded wood mulch- This is one of the best mulches for weed control. The shreds form into a mat that does a good job of keeping the weeds down. It’s also great for the soil. Shredded wood adds nutrients as it breaks down. As an added bonus, shredded wood mulches are attractive. They come in a range of colors and textures. One of the best options is triple shredded wood mulch. 
• Wood chips- Wood chips do a good job of blocking weeds. They also add nutrients to the soil as they degrade and they are long-lasting. In addition, they are widely available and they come in a wide range of colors and textures. I like cedar and cypress mulch because they smell nice. They can also help repel certain insects.
• Bark- Bark mulches can do a great job of blocking weeds. They are also long-lasting and attractive. Bark comes in a wide range of textures including bark nuggets and bark dust. Bark mulch doesn’t add as many nutrients as other options. I like pine bark mulch.
• Rock mulch- Rock can also work well to prevent weeds. Pea gravel, lava rocks, and river rocks can all be used. They do a pretty good job of keeping weeds down. They also last forever because they don’t degrade. Rock mulch can also work well for walkways and driveways. One major driveway is that rock can radiate heat, which can heat up your home and garden.
• Shredded leaves- Dry shredded leaves are great for weed control. Best of all, they’re free. You can use the leaves that fall in your yard. Before applying leaves, you have to shred them. If you don’t, they can block air and water from reaching the soil. This can smother your plants. For more info, check out my guide to shredding leaves for mulch.
• Pine straw (pine needles)- Pine needles form into a mat that does a great job of blocking weeds. They are also widely available for free. One drawback is that they don’t add many nutrients as they degrade. 
• Rubber mulch- Rubber can do a good job of keeping the weeds down. It doesn’t decompose so it lasts many years. The biggest drawback is that chemicals can leach out of the rubber and end up in your soil. It can also break down and release microplastics. For more info, check out my guide to the pros and cons of rubber mulch.
• Landscape fabric or black plastic sheeting- These materials are specifically designed to block weeds. You install the fabric then put mulch on top of it. It works as a weed barrier. I’ll talk more in-depth about these in the next section. 
• Grass clippings- This is another great free mulch option. Collect your lawn clippings in a bag while mowing then use them as mulch to keep the weeds down. As an added bonus, grass clippings will add a lot of nutrients to your garden as they break down. If you use grass clippings, make sure they weren’t treated with any herbicides that could affect your plants. 
• Sawdust- Sawdust is another great free mulch option. It can also be used to increase the acidity of your soil if you have acid-loving plants. One drawback is that sawdust can soak moisture out of your soil. It can also deplete nitrogen in your soil as it breaks down. Sawdust works best in a thin layer. 
• Straw or hay- Both straw and hay can work well for keeping the weeds down. One problem is that they can contain weed seeds. When you buy straw or hay, make sure they are seed free. These varieties are made for mulching. If you use straw with seed heads, you’ll end up with grass growing in your garden. For more in-depth info, check out my guides to using straw as mulch and using hay as mulch. 
• Cardboard- You can use cardboard to smother weeds. Over time, the cardboard degrades away. This can be a great way to deal with an area with really bad weeds. You do have to cover the cardboard with another type of mulch, such as wood chips to prevent it from blowing away. This technique is sometimes called sheet mulching. 
• Carpet- One technique some gardeners use is to lay an old carpet over the weeds to smother them. You can then move the carpet on to the next section. This can work well if you’re trying to make a garden in an area with lots of weeds. The problem is that you can only kill weeds on one section at a time. The carpet can also drop fibers over time. The carpet also doesn’t look very nice in your garden. 
• Cocoa shells- Cocoa shells are becoming increasingly popular. They come from the tree that is used to produce chocolate. They do a fine job of blocking weeds. They also add nutrients as they degrade. You shouldn’t use these if you have dogs. They contain the same chemical as chocolate. If your dogs were to chew on them, they could get sick. 
• Cover crops- Cover crops are living mulch. They are a crop you plant to help reduce weeds by crowding them out. They can also help preserve moisture, add organic matter to the soil, and reduce erosion. In the fall, you can till the cover crop in. Clover is a popular option.

Mulches to Avoid

Pretty much all mulches will help keep the weeds down but there are a couple that you may want to avoid. 

Dyed mulch is not recommended. It can do a fine job of weed control. The vibrant colors also look nice. The problem is that it can introduce chemicals into your soil as it degrades. The dyes are designed to be non-toxic but they will remain in your soil for a long time. Dyed mulch is also made from waste wood and recycled wood in most cases. The could have been treated with various chemicals, such as preservatives or pesticides. You don’t want these chemicals in your garden. Particularly if you’re growing vegetables.

Many gardeners also avoid hay mulch because it often contains seeds. Hay is generally used for animal feed so the seeds aren’t removed. If you decide to use hay, make sure it’s seed-free. There are also ways to kill the seeds before you apply it. 

Personally, I don’t like to use inorganic mulches like rock or rubber in my flower beds or vegetable garden because they don’t provide any nutrients. I also don’t use landscape fabric or plastic sheeting. I always use organic mulch. The only exception is walkways. Rock can work well.

Pretty much every mulch has some drawback to consider. For example, grass clippings can mold, wood chips could attract termites, lava rock can radiate heat, rubber can leach chemicals, and peat moss is unsustainable. Before choosing a mulch, consider the pros and cons. There is no perfect mulch. Some are better than others.

Should You Use Landscape Fabric Under Mulch to Block Weeds? 

Landscape fabric and plastic sheeting are designed to block weeds in gardens. That is really their only purpose. The fabric blocks sunlight from reaching the soil so existing weeds can’t germinate. It is also a physical barrier that prevents existing weeds from growing. It suffocates them. In addition, it blocks weed seeds from reaching the soil. Landscape fabric can do a great job of blocking the weeds.

There are several problems with landscape fabric. First, it only lasts a couple of years. It ends up getting torn. Some strong weeds can grow through it. You’ll also have to cut holes in it when you plant. Over time, it starts to fray and show through your mulch. When this happens, it becomes an eyesore and it needs to be replaced.

Another major problem is that organic matter can collect on top of the fabric and break down. Most commonly, leaves fall on top of the landscape fabric and decompose.  Every year, around 0.5-1” of material collects on top of the landscape fabric. After around 2 years, weeds start growing on top of the landscape fabric.

It requires some maintenance to keep landscape fabric weed-free. If you put rock mulch on top of it, you have to keep it clean of debris to prevent weeds from growing. Eventually, weeds will grow on top of it. It’s unavoidable. When this happens, you just have to replace it, which is a big job.

Another issue is that landscape fabric and plastic sheeting can prevent air and water from passing through to the soil. It can also block nutrients from reaching the soil when your mulch decomposes. Landscape fabric is perforated but the holes can get clogged. This can suffocate your plants. Plastic sheeting blocks all air and moisture. This can kill the soil.

Generally, I do not like to use landscape fabric in my garden. It’s really only worth it for permanent beds and walkways. For more in-depth info, check out my guide: Should You Use Landscape Fabric Under Mulch?

How Does Mulch Prevent Weeds?

Mulch prevents weeds in a couple of ways. First, it creates a protective layer for the soil. Mulch blocks weed seeds that blow in or get dropped by birds from reaching the soil surface. The seeds have a hard time germinating in the mulch. 

Second, mulch blocks the light so existing weeds have a harder time growing. Weeds have a hard time germinating and growing without any light. Weeds also have a hard time pushing through 3-4 inches of mulch. Even if they manage to germinate, they won’t make it to the surface.

Mulch won’t stop all weeds from growing. There are some tough weeds that can push through the mulch. Perennial weeds will just come back year after year. You will still have to do a bit of weeding, even if you mulch.  

Why Control Weeds?

You might be tempted to just leave bare soil on your garden and let weeds grow. After all, they’re just plants, right?

There are some good reasons to get weeds out of your garden. Most importantly, weeds steal resources from your plants. They absorb water and nutrients from the soil. This leaves fewer resources for your plants. As a result, your plants won’t grow as fast or as strong. If you’re growing vegetable plants, your yields will be smaller if your plants have to compete with weeds.

Of course, weeds are also ugly. Your garden won’t look attractive if there are a bunch of weeds growing in it. Weeds are an eyesore. 

They also spread quickly. If you have a few weeds in your flower bed one season, they could take over by the next season. They could spread to your neighbor’s yards too, which they won’t be happy about.

If you start spotting some weeds, it’s best to get rid of them quickly so they don’t spread. Removing a few weeds is a pretty easy job. Weeding your whole property is a massive amount of work. 

Other Reasons to Mulch

Weed control isn’t the only reason to mulch. Mulch also:

• Retain soil moisture. Mulch slows the rate of evaporation so you don’t have to use as much water or water as frequently.
• Insulate your plants from the heat and cold. The mulch shades the soil to keep it cooler during the summer. It also provides a protective layer between the soil and snow and ice during the winter. This helps keep the soil and your plant roots warmer.
• Reduce soil erosion. It prevents the soil and nutrients from washing away during heavy rain.
• Reduce soil compaction by absorbing some of the impact from rain and foot traffic. 
• Adds nutrients to your soil. Organic mulch contains nitrogen potassium, and phosphorus. These are all elements that plants need to grow. As mulch degrades, these nutrients are released into the soil.
• Adds organic materials to the soil, which improves the soil quality and soil health. This helps plant growth. 

How to Mulch for Weed Control

1. Prepare your garden- Before you begin mulching, take some time to prepare the area. First, you should remove any existing weeds. If you don’t, there is a good chance that they will just grow through the mulch. Weeds are pretty hardy. 
2. Apply an herbicide (optional)- If you have a serious weed problem, consider applying some herbicide to prevent them from coming back. Make sure you choose an herbicide that won’t affect your plants. For example, you wouldn’t want to use a herbicide that is designed to kill grass if you’re trying to grow corn. 
3. Choose a mulch- Many different types of mulch can work well for weed control. Shredded wood, pine needles, shredded leaves, grass clippings, and bark are all excellent options. When choosing a mulch, make sure it’s organic. Ideally, it shouldn’t be treated with any herbicides or pesticides and it shouldn’t contain any dyes. 
4. Lay a weed barrier (optional)- If you choose, you can use landscape fabric to help keep the weeds down. Personally, I don’t like landscape fabric.
5. Apply the mulch- For weed control, you should apply a thick layer of mulch. 3-4” is ideal. You shouldn’t apply mulch more than around 4” deep because it can prevent air and water from reaching the soil, which can smother your plants. When applying the mulch, you should leave a gap of around 4-6” around the base of your plants and tree trunks. The mulch shouldn’t touch the stem. This is because mulch can hold moisture, which can cause your plants to rot. 
6. Water- After you’re done mulching, water thoroughly. Feel the soil below to make sure the water is able to pass through the mulch. If the water isn’t reaching the soil, your mulch may be too thick. 
7. Re-apply fresh mulch as needed- Organic mulches degrade over time. When the mulch starts getting thin, it’s weed suppression quality will decrease. On average mulch degrades at a rate of about 1-2” per year. Most mulches need to be topped up once every year or every other year. Once your mulch degrades down to about 2” in depth, consider adding a fresh layer. You can apply new mulch over old. You don’t need to remove the old mulch.

When to Mulch for Weed Control

If your goal is weed prevention, early spring is the best time to mulch. The mulch will prevent annual weeds from coming up in the spring. It will also help keep the perennial weeds down.

You can mulch for weed control at any time of year. There is no bad time to mulch. You don’t have to wait. If you choose, you can apply mulch at the end of the growing season. 

You Still Have to Do Some Weeding if You Mulch

Mulching won’t eliminate weeds. It will just help reduce them. Some tough weeds will grow through the mulch. It’s unavoidable. You will still have to do some weeding. If you keep on top of it, weeding will be minimal. The mulch will block most weeds. 

My Experience

I never used to mulch in my garden beds. Instead, I would just weed regularly. A few seasons ago, I decided to start using some yard waste as mulch. I mulched with grass clippings, shredded leaves, and pine needles. At this point, I have experimented with lots of different mulches.

Free mulches really help keep the weeds down but I didn’t like the way they look in my flower beds. I decided to buy some wood mulch a couple of years ago. It does a great job of keeping the weeds down and it looks beautiful in my flower beds.

Mulching is a great way to keep the weeds down. It makes it much harder for weeds to grow. When you mulch, weed seeds have a harder time reaching the soil. Existing weeds struggle to push through the mulch. 

In my experience, pretty much any type of mulch can be used to prevent weed growth. As long as you use a thick enough layer, they all perform about the same. Wood chips, pine needles, and rock mulch all work really well for weed control. 

Which type of mulch do you prefer for keeping the weeds down? Share your experience in the comments below!

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The post What is the Best Mulch to Prevent Weeds in Your Garden?  appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

1. Overwatering

Overwatering is probably the most common cause of succulent problems. It can cause the leaves to turn yellow or become soft and mushy. If you continue overwatering, the leaves can start falling off. Eventually, you succulent will die. Overwatering also makes it easier for mold and fungus to grow on the soil surface. Fungi grow in moist environments. Pests can also become an issue. They are attracted to the moisture.

If you suspect that overwatering may be causing your plant problems, stop watering immediately and asses. To avoid overwatering, let the soil dry out completely before you water again. You may only have to water once every two weeks. Watering weekly is usually too much.

Also, make sure the container that your succulent is in has drainage holes at the bottom so the water can escape. Make sure the tray that it’s sitting in isn’t full of excess water. Check the soil to make sure it doesn’t retain too much water. If the soil stays wet for too long, consider replacing it with a faster draining soil.

If you’ve overwatered for a long time, it may be too late. Overwatering is one of the fastest ways to kill a succulent. Removing any soggy or yellow leaves can help. You could also take a cutting from a healthy part of the plant, wait for it to callous over, then plant it in new soil. Wait a few days before you water it. You should see new growth relatively quickly. 

2. Underwatering

Underwatering is another common cause of succulent problems. Succulents can go a long time without water. They are desert plants. Most species can survive at least a couple of months between watering. 

When your succulents don’t get enough water, the leaves can turn brown, shrivel up, and eventually fall off.  The stem can also shrivel up. Over time, the roots can slowly die off. When you water, there may not be enough root mass to soak up the moisture.

To avoid underwatering, check the soil moisture frequently. Water when the soil feels like it’s dry. One method you can use is to stick a chopstick into the soil. If it comes out dry, it’s time to water. When it’s wet, wait to water. 

If you have underwatered your succulent, give it a healthy watering and see what happens. Most likely, it will survive. The leaves should return to normal over the next couple of waterings. Be careful not to start overwatering.

3. Root Rot

Root rot is usually caused by overwatering. It can also be caused by using soil that holds too much water or by growing succulents in a pot that doesn’t drain well. Trying to grow a succulent in a low-light environment or a cold environment can also lead to root rot. 

When the soil stays too wet for too long, the roots can’t get enough oxygen and they start to die. The leaves can start turning yellow or black, shriveling up, and falling off. When this happens, the plant can show the same signs as underwatering. 

If you suspect root rot, stop watering your plant immediately. If the root rot is minor, the plant will often recover. When the root rot is advanced, the plant will likely die. You could take a cutting from a healthy part of the plant and propagate it. 

The best way to avoid root rot is to let the soil dry out completely between waterings. When you water, wet the soil completely. Also, use a soil that drains quickly. Avoid soils that hold too much water. Make sure the pot you’re using has plenty of drain holes. Also, make sure your succulents are in a well lit area with good air circulation so the soil can dry out. 

4. Leaves Falling Off

If leaves start falling off your succulent, there is probably a problem. The most common cause of leaf drop is overwatering. When you overwater, the leaves swell and become mushy. Eventually, they fall off. Underwatering can also cause leaf drop. Succulent leaves eventually dry up and fall off. They shed leaves to preserve moisture.

To fix the issue, change your watering habits. Monitor the soil moisture level. Wait until the soil is dry before you water again. Also, make sure the potting soil you’re using is quick draining. If the soil holds too much moisture, repot your plant in a faster draining soil. Also, make sure you’re also using a pot that has plenty of drain holes. Before repotting your plant, let it dry out for a few days. 

Another potential cause of leaves falling off is extreme temperatures. Succulents can withstand a wide range of temperatures. Sometimes, when a succulent plant gets too hot, the leaves can start falling off. The plant does this to conserve energy, maintain water, and survive. This is a natural response to drought. 

To reduce stress on the plant, you can move it to a shadier location where it will be cooler. You may also need to water a little more frequently when the weather is extremely hot. 

Leaf drop can be normal. If a couple of leaves fall off, that’s not really cause for concern. If multiple leaves start dropping off all at once, there is likely something wrong. 

5. Leaves Turning Yellow

If your succulent plant’s leaves are turning yellow, that can be a sign that something is wrong. Probably the most common cause of yellow leaves is a watering issue. Both overwatering and underwatering can cause the leaves to yellow. 

If you overwater, the leaves can turn yellow and swell up. They will feel mushy to the touch. If you underwater, the leaves can turn yellow and shrivel up and wilt.   

To solve this problem, change your watering habits. If you have been overwatering, wait for the soil to dry out between waterings. If you have been underwatering, water more thoroughly when you water. For most succulents, you should water them until water drips out of the bottom of the pot. You should wait for the soil to dry out completely before you water again. 

Another potential cause of yellow leaves is a lack of nutrients. Most potting soil comes with fertilizer mixed in. Eventually, those nutrients will be used up. Your plant will absorb them and some will be washed out with watering. When the nutrients are gone, your plant’s health can start to decline and the leaves can yellow.

To solve this issue, fertilize your succulent or repot it in fresh potting mix. Use a fertilizer that is designed for houseplants or cacti and succulents. Succulents do not need a lot of nutrients. It’s a good idea to dilute the fertilizer. Apply it when you water. Apply half the recommended dose first to see how your plant responds. If you choose to repot, be sure to use a potting mix that is well-draining.

Pests can also cause the leaves to turn yellow. Over long periods of time, certain pests can eat enough of the roots that the plant has to drop some leaves to try to save itself. Of course, pests can also eat the leaves. Inspect your plant for pests if you notice leaves yellowing and use a pesticide to get rid of them. 

Leaf yellowing can also be normal. Leaves don’t live forever. Sometimes they turn yellow and fall off. If a small number of old leaves turn yellow, it may not be an issue at all. Leaf yellowing is an issue when new leaves or a lot of leaves start turning yellow. 

6. Sun Damage and Brown Spots on Leaves

Brown spots on the leaves are most likely caused by sun damage. The leaves can get scorched when too much sunlight hits them. This is kind of like sunburn on a human. A succulent can experience sunburn if it is exposed to direct intense sunlight for long periods of time. Sometimes, sunburn can happen if you move your succulent from a shady spot to a very sunny spot. The change shocks the plant. This condition is more common in succulents with thin leaves. Thicker leaves are harder to burn. 

The solution is to move the plant to a shadier location during a heatwave. Also, if you plan to move succulents outside or to a sunnier location, try to slowly increase the amount of sunlight it gets to acclimatize it. Don’t put newly propagated succulents in direct sunlight.

If you notice sun damage on your succulent, you can remove the leaves with brown patches. They will eventually drop on their own. Brown leaves won’t recover. 

Generally, succulents prefer full indirect sunlight. Place them behind a thin shade cloth or a glass window. That will block some of the sun’s harmful UV rays.  They don’t like full sun. 

7. Withered or Shriveled Up Leaves

If you notice that the leaves look like they are withered or shriveled, the most common cause is underwatering. This usually affects the top of the plant first. 

If underwatering is the issue, it’s an easy problem to solve. Start watering your succulent more thoroughly and more frequently. The plant will quickly recover in most cases. Succulents need more water during the growing season and during heatwaves. 

Be sure not to start overwatering. It’s easy to overcompensate. Let the soil drain and dry out completely before watering again. When you do water, water thoroughly so water is leaking out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. 

In some cases, overwatering can also cause the leaves to look withered and shriveled. The leaves can appear limp and they may fall off. If you think overwatering is the issue, let the soil completely dry out between waterings. Consider repotting the plant in a soil that drains better. 

8. Mushy Leaves

Mushy leaves are a sign that you have been overwatering your succulent. If you notice the leaves start to turn mushy, immediately stop watering your succulent and let the soil dry out completely. Also, make sure your succulent is in a pot that drains well.

There is a chance that your plant will make it. There is also a good chance that it won’t. Overwatering is the fastest way to kill a succulent. If it’s too far gone, it won’t recover. Overwatering can damage the leaves beyond repair. 

Cold weather can also cause mushy leaves. Frost can quickly kill the leaves. When they thaw out, they will be mushy. If this happens, the plant is unlikely to survive unless the frost was minor. In that case, you may be able to remove the dead leaves. If you expect cold weather, make sure your succulent is in a warm place in your home. Cold weather is only an issue with tropical succulents. Cold hardy species can survive in freezing weather. 

9. Frost or Cold Damage

The cold can damage tropical species of succulents. Tropical species do best when the weather is at least 50-60 degrees. A mild frost can cause serious damage. It could easily kill your plants. If you have tropical succulents outside and you expect the temperatures to drop below freezing, bring them inside. If you just expect cool weather, cover them with a frost cloth, just in case. In the spring, trim off any leaves that have died. 

Cold hardy species of succulents can survive a mild frost. They are usually okay down to 30-40 degrees. Some can tolerate even lower temperatures. If you expect particularly cold weather, it’s a good idea to bring them inside.

10. Stretching

Stretching happens when your succulent doesn’t get enough sunlight. Your plant will look thin and spindly. This condition is known as etiolation. 

The stem will stretch out toward the light source in an attempt to find more light. The leaves may also become flatter and wider to try to collect more light. The space between leaves will also be wider. This is how plants naturally respond to a lack of light.

This condition doesn’t happen overnight. It takes months for a succulent plant to etiolate because they are naturally slow-growing. 

If you notice your succulent starting to become kind of spindly, move it to a different location where there is more light. Ideally, it should have full, indirect light. A south or east facing window will work well. 

Try to slowly give your plant more light. You don’t want to move it from a dark spot indoors to a spot with full direct light outdoors. This could give your plant sun damage or shock it. Try to slowly increase the amount of light. It’s also a good idea to rotate your plants so they grow evenly. You don’t want one side always facing the sun and one side always facing away from the sun. 

If you can’t provide more natural light for your succulent, you can use a full-spectrum grow light. Fluorescent or LED will work fine. Set the grow light up so it is within 12 inches of your plants. Put it on a timer so it runs for 12-16 hours per day. The bright light will help your succulents grow. 

Some species of succulents can naturally recover from a lack of light. They will fill out over time. Others will need to be pruned. You will need to cut off the lanky sections and allow them to regrow. Other species will never recover. This is often the case with barrel-type cacti. They may be permanently misshapen by a lack of light. They will always look a bit thin and spindly. 

11. Mealybugs

Pests can infest succulent plants. One of the more common types of pests are mealybugs. They look kind of like a white mass on your plant. They are usually found where the leaves meet the stem. Mealybugs feed on the plant’s sap. They release a sticky substance onto your plant’s leaves. 

The most common way to bring mealy bugs into your home is on a plant. Once one plant is infested, they can easily spread to nearby houseplants. Before bringing a new plant into your home, it’s a good idea to inspect for pests. Of course, mealybugs can also enter your home through an open door or window and find their way to your plants. 

If you notice mealybugs on your succulent, immediately, isolate it from your other plants so the bugs don’t spread and treat them. Start by physically removing any white masses on your plants. This will reduce the infestation. Use rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab and dab it on the bugs to kill them. You could also spray the plant with diluted rubbing alcohol. You can also use neem oil or an insecticidal soap to kill them. 

Mealybugs are fairly easy to treat if you catch them early. it will likely take 3-5 treatments to get rid of them completely. Keep an eye on your other plants to make sure you don’t end up with an infestation. If you can’t get rid of the mealybugs, you may have to get rid of the plant so the infestation doesn’t spread.

For more info, check out my guide: How to Get Rid of Silver Bugs on Houseplants.

12. Scale Insects

Scale insects are some of the most common succulent pests. In small numbers, they are pretty harmless. They can do a small amount of damage to your plant’s leaves. They also leave a sticky sap on the leaves. If you don’t treat them, they can multiply. In large numbers, they can cause significant damage to your plant. 

Before bringing new plants into your house, inspect for scale insects. They can be hard to spot because they usually don’t move after they latch on to your plant. They look like little brown discs. If you put your plants outside, inspect them before bringing them inside again. 

13. Brown or Black Spots

Small brown or black spots on the leaves is a relatively common problem on succulents. There can be a number of causes. 

If the tips of some of the leaves start to turn brown, it could be a sign of overwatering. Sun damage could cause one part of the plant to turn brown if the sunlight was focused on a particular area. Physical damage can also cause a brown spot. Maybe someone bumped into the plant and damaged some leaves or maybe some pests chewed holes into the leaves. Frost could also create brown spots by damaging parts of the plant. A fungal disease could also create brown or black spots. 

Generally, brown and black spots are permanent. They are a way for a plant to protect itself after it was damaged. They are kind of like a scab but they don’t go away. In some cases, you may be able to remove the section where the dark spots are. For example, if there a couple of leaves that were damaged, you could remove them. 

14. Slow Growth or No Growth

Slow growth can take a long time to notice. Your succulent may look perfectly fine but it just doesn’t produce any new growth. This is a problem. Succulents grow slowly but they do grow. 

There are a few potential causes of slow growth. Most likely, your succulent isn’t receiving enough light. Without sufficient light, the plant will grow extremely slowly. If there is any new growth, it will be sparse and spindly.

The solution is to move your plant to a location with more light. For indoor plants, a south or east facing window is ideal. It’s best to slowly give your plant more light so you don’t shock your plant or allow it to burn. Don’t move it from a dark location indoors to full direct sunlight outdoors. Move your plant to a brighter location and keep an eye on it to see how it reacts.

A lack of nutrients can also cause slow growth or no growth. If your succulent has been in the same pot for over 2 years, it could have depleted all of the nutrients in the soil. Most potting soil comes with some compost or fertilizer mixed in. Over time, the nutrients get used up by the plant. Some get washed out as you water.

To replenish the nutrients, you can add fertilizer. Look for a fertilizer that is designed for houseplants or cacti and succulents. Follow the directions on the bottle. Succulents do not need a lot of nutrients. Consider applying half the recommended dose to see how your plant responds then add more if necessary. 

Instead of applying fertilizer, you could repot your succulent in fresh potting soil. The potting soil will have nutrients already mixed in. Look for a well-draining soil or look for a potting mix that is specifically designed for succulents. The nutrients in the new potting soil will last for around 2 years. 

Your succulent could also be growing slowly because it’s in a pot that is too small. If the roots are growing out of the drainage holes, this is a sign that the pot is too small. If your succulent has outgrown its pot, transplant it into a larger pot.

15. Corking

Corking is a condition where older sections of the plant turn brown. The brown material will be tough and somewhat spongy. Usually, it will start at the bottom of the plant. It could also appear randomly all over the plant. Corking is a way for a plant to protect itself from damage. Kind of like humans develop a callous or scab. 

There are a few potential causes of corking. Age is the most common cause. On an old succulent, sometimes older sections will have trouble replacing cells so they will start to turn brown and cork. In this case, there is nothing you can do. The plant is just growing old. 

Corking can also develop on sections of the plant that were physically damaged. Maybe the plant was knocked over and a section was broken. Maybe pests damaged some leaves. The plant may cork those sections in an attempt to protect itself from disease.

It’s also possible to cause corking by overwatering or underwatering. Sometimes leaves can be damaged when you overwater. They can swell too much. They can then cork if they get damaged. 

Corking is permanent. It won’t go away on its own. There isn’t really any treatment for it. In some cases, you may be able to cut off some of the old sections of the plant that are corking. If there is corking near the base of the plant, it will probably just have to stay there. 

16. Disease

Succulents are pretty hardy but there are some diseases that can affect them. Usually, disease won’t kill a succulent. They have pretty strong immune systems. It could disfigure your plant and make it less attractive. 

Before buying a new succulent, inspect it carefully for disease. Look for any unhealthy sections or strange blemishes. You don’t want to bring a diseased plant into your home because it could spread to your other plants. A fungal infection can easily spread. 

When you’re caring for your plants, always use clean tools. If you prune your plant with contaminated tools, you could spread disease. Also, make sure there is good air circulation around the plant. Fungal diseases like humid areas with stagnant air. 

If you spot pests on your plants, deal with them quickly. Most pests won’t really harm your plants but they can spread disease that can cause serious damage. Aphids and thrips are particularly dangerous. Use a pesticide to get rid of them if you spot them. 

If your plant does get infected with a disease try to treat it quickly. Use a fungicide. Repotting your plant in fresh soil can also help. If you do this, be sure to clean the pot out and sanitize it. Also, remove as much soil as possible from the roots. Usually, plants can be saved if you act fast. 

17. Dead Lower Leaves

Over time, the lower leaves will naturally wither, dry out, and fall off. This is natural. It is not a cause for concern. These are the old leaves. They will fall off naturally or you can pluck them off when they’re dead.

It’s a good idea to pick any leaves that have fallen off out of the soil. This will help prevent insect infestations and mold. 

Can You Save Your Succulent?

If you damage your succulent by overwatering, underwatering, or giving it too much or too little light, there is a good chance that you can save it if you catch it early. Succulents are pretty hardy plants. There are cases where a succulent is damaged beyond repair.  

When you notice a problem with your succulent, immediately stop doing whatever you were doing wrong. Examine your succulent carefully to check the extent of the damage. Check the roots to see if there is root rot. Look at the leaves to see how many of them are damaged.

If you find that there are a good amount of healthy roots and leaves, your plant will likely recover. If there is extensive damage to the root system such as rotted, dried, or black roots, or if the stem and leaves are mushy, the plant likely can’t be saved. 

My Experience

I have always kept a few succulents in my home. I like them because they’re so low maintenance. They only need to be watered once every couple of weeks and fertilized once every couple of years. I think they look nice as well.

Over the years, I have had a few issues with them. I killed a couple by overwatering when I first started keeping them. Quickly, I learned to only water when the soil was dry. I have also damaged a couple through lack of light. One looks pretty spindly but it’s still hanging in there. 

The most common problems for succulents are overwatering, underwatering, and insufficient light. Nutrient deficiency can also be an issue. Pests like mealybugs can be an issue in some places.  

To keep your succulent healthy, water it completely until water starts flowing out of the drain holes then let the soil dry out completely before you water again. Keep your succulent in a place where it gets full indirect light. It should get at least 8-10 hours of light per day. If you’ve kept your succulent in the same potting soil for the past 2 years, consider applying a bit of fertilizer or repotting it in a new potting mix. These tips will keep your succulent healthy for years to come. Healthy succulents will last for many years. 

Have you had any problems with your succulent plants? Share your experience in the comments below!

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More from The Homestead Hangout

• How to Get Rid of Yellow Mold on Soil
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The post 17 Common Succulent Problems and How to Fix Them appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

Mulch is sold by the bag, by the scoop, and by the cubic yard. This guide outlines how much each unit of mulch weighs. I will also list the average weight of different types of mulch. This information might be useful if you’re trying to decide how much mulch you need for your garden or if you need to haul mulch in your vehicle. 

What is a Scoop of Mulch?

A scoop is usually ½ cubic yard of mulch. The size of a scoop can vary depending on the location where you source your mulch. Some places, a scoop is ⅔ cubic yard. At some places, a scoop is 1 cubic yard.

How a scoop is measured usually depends on the type of equipment used to load the mulch. Before buying mulch by the scoop, you’ll want to ask how much a scoop is. It is not a standardized measurement. When buying mulch, it’s best to buy it by the yard or by weight so you know exactly how much you’re getting.

There are some other types of scoops that can be used to measure mulch at home. For example, you could use a wheelbarrow, 5 gallon buckets, or a mulch spreader to measure your mulch. Fill the wheelbarrow or mulch spreader up full then spread your mulch to see how much ground one scoop covers. You could also measure by the shovel full or trowel if you’re mulching potted plants, a raised flower bed, or a small garden. 

Different Types of Mulch and How Much They Weigh by the Scoop and Cubic Yard

• Wood chips- 250-300 pounds per scoop or 500-600 pounds per yard
• Bark mulch- 250-350 pounds per scoop or 500-700 pounds per yard
• Pea gravel- 1500 pounds per scoop or 3000 pounds per yard
• Top soil- 1000-1200 pounds per scoop or 2000-2400 pounds per yard
• Sand- 1200-1400 pounds per scoop or 2200-2800 pounds per yard
• Lava rock- 650-750 pounds per scoop or 1300-1500 pounds per yard
• Compost- 350-700 pounds per scoop or 700-1400 pounds per yard
• Rubber mulch- around 1200 pounds per scoop or 2400 pounds per yard

It’s important to note that water weight can have a large effect on the weight of mulch. A yard of wood chips that have been sitting out in the rain will weigh much more than a dry yard of wood chips because they soak up quite a bit of moisture. Moisture content plays a big role in mulch weight. The type of wood also plays a role in the weight. Hardwood mulch is usually slightly heavier than softwood mulch because it is more dense.

How Much Mulch Can Your Vehicle Haul?

• Compact pickup truck (Ford Ranger, Toyota Tacoma, or similar)- These trucks usually have a payload capacity of around 1000-1500 pounds. They can haul around 1 scoop of heavy mulch or 1 yard of lightweight mulch.
• ½ ton pickup (Ford F-150, Chevy 1500, etc.)- A full-size truck has a payload capacity of 1000-2000 pounds. They can haul around 1-2 scoops of heavy mulch or 2 yards of lightweight mulch.
• ¾ ton pickup truck (Ford F-250 or similar)- These trucks have a payload capacity of around 3000-4000 pounds. They can haul 1-1.5 yards of heavy mulch or around 2-3 yards of lightweight mulch.
• 1 ton pickup truck (Ford F-350 or similar)-  These trucks have a payload capacity of around 6000-7500 pounds. They can handle 3-4 yards of heavy mulch or 5-7 yards of lightweight mulch.
• Standard sedans- Most cars are capable of hauling around 500 pounds. You could carry around ten 50 pound bags of mulch in a regular car. If you do this, be sure the weight is properly distributed. 
• Vans- Most minivans have a payload capacity of 800-1000 pounds. You could haul 1 yard of lightweight mulch, 1 scoop of heavy mulch, or 10-15 bags of mulch. Cargo vans are rated the same as pickup trucks. There are ½ ton, ¾ ton, and 1 ton models. They have similar payload capacities.  

Hauling Mulch in a Trailer

Trailers come in a wide range of sizes with different payloads. Smaller single-axle trailers without springs can usually handle 1 scoop of heavy mulch or 1 yard of lightweight mulch. A trailer with springs can usually handle 1 yard of heavy mulch or 2 yards of lightweight mulch. 

Heavy duty trailers with multiple axles can handle much more mulch. You might be able to haul 5-10 yards or more. Of course, your two vehicle will need to have sufficient towing capacity to handle the trailer. 

The trailer you use for hauling mulch should have solid sides and a solid bottom so the mulch doesn’t leak while you’re driving. You should also put a tarp over the mulch so it doesn’t blow away while you’re driving. 

Having Mulch Delivered

If you need a lot of mulch for a large property and you don’t have a vehicle that’s capable of hauling, you can have mulch delivered. Every company that sells mulch in bulk offers delivery. They will send a dump truck to your home and leave the mulch in a pile wherever you want it. 

Mulch delivery can cost anywhere from $50-$200 depending on how much mulch you order and how far away you live. On average, expect to spend around $150 for delivery. If you live more than 10 or so miles away, there may be an extra charge. 

Even if you have a capable vehicle, sometimes getting mulch delivered is still the best option. There are benefits of having mulch delivered. You don’t have to get your vehicle dirty. You don’t cause wear and tear by hauling a heavy load. The delivery people will unload the mulch for you. You don’t have to unload it yourself. It is also convenient and saves you time. Of course, the cost is the biggest drawback. 

Some delivery companies have a minimum delivery size. Usually, the minimum is 1 scoop. Sometimes the minimum is one full yard. If you need less than 1 scoop, you’ll have to haul it yourself. In this case, you’re usually better off buying mulch by the bag and hauling it in your car. 

The cost of delivery does not include installation. The delivery people will just unload the mulch in a pile. Most companies offer installation as well or they can refer someone to you if you don’t want to install the mulch yourself. Professional mulch installation can cost anywhere from $50-$400 per cubic yard, depending on where you live. On average, expect to spend around $150 per cubic yard.

Buying Mulch by the Bag

Most bags of mulch contain 2 cubic feet of material and weigh 20-25 pounds. You can find bags that range in size from 1.5-3 cubic feet, weighing anywhere from 20-50 pounds. The weight of bagged mulch varies depending on the type of mulch and the water content. If the bags were sitting out in the rain, they may have soaked up some water weight. 

One yard of mulch is 27 cubic feet. That means 13.5 bags that contain 2 cubic feet of mulch each equals one yard. 13.5 bags of bark mulch or wood chips will weigh around 300-500 pounds, on average. 

If you have a small to medium-sized garden to cover, buying mulch by the bag can be a good option. The big bags are easy to handle. You can haul them in the trunk of a car or the back of an SUV and they won’t make a big mess. They’re easy to load and unload. 

You can also buy larger quantities of mulch by the bag by buying a pallet. A pallet contains 65-70 bags. It’s usually cheaper to buy in bulk and have mulch delivered rather than buying a pallet.

How Much Mulch Do You Need?

Before buying mulch, you’ll need to determine roughly how much you need to buy. The exact amount of mulch you’ll need depends on the size of the area you’re mulching, the type of mulch you’re using, and how thick you want your mulch. 

Some mulches go further than others. This is because some mulches are less dense than others. For example, bark nuggets are less dense than triple shredded wood. A yard of bark nuggets will cover more ground than a yard of triple-shredded wood.

Of course, you’ll also need to consider the thickness. If you already have mulch and you just need to add a fresh layer on top, you may only need to apply 1-2”. If you’re starting from bare soil, you might need to add 4” of mulch. 

Mulch Depth and Coverage

On average, 1 yard of mulch will cover:

• 1” deep- 320 square feet
• 2” deep- 160 square feet
• 3” deep- 100 square feet
• 4” deep- 80 square feet

Generally, it’s best not to lay mulch thicker than 4 inches of depth. 

How to Determine How Much Mulch You Need: Measuring Square Footage

To determine how much mulch you need, start by measuring the surface area of the garden beds that you want to mulch in square feet. Use a tape measure to measure the length and width of the area that you plan to mulch.

For example, if you’re vegetable garden is 20 feet long by 10 feet wide, you’ll have 200 square feet to cover (20 x 10 = 200). Next, decide how deep you want your mulch. Ideally, mulch should be around 2-4” deep. 

Now, use the above table to determine how much mulch you need. For example, if you have 200 square feet of garden to cover and you want your mulch to be 3” deep, you’ll need 2 cubic yards of mulch (1 yard will cover 100 square feet at 3” of depth). 

Of course, these are all averages. It’s a good idea to over-order slightly so you know you’ll have enough. If you order too much material, you can save it for later or use it somewhere else in your garden. 

You can also use this mulch calculator to help you determine how much mulch you need. 

Where to Buy Mulch by the Scoop or Yard

• Garden centers- Every garden center sells mulch by the bag. They usually carry a small selection of wood and bark mulches as well as manure. Sometimes they may carry bales of straw or pine straw. Larger ones may sell bulk material. 
• Landscape supply stores- These places sell bulk mulch and bagged mulch. They are the best option if you need a large amount of mulch. They can sell it to you by the ton. 
• Nurseries- Nurseries usually sell mulch in bulk. They will deliver it to your home. They usually sell bagged mulch as well. 
• Home improvement stores- Businesses like Lowe’s and Home Depot sell mulch in plastic bags. They also sell mulch online that you can have delivered. Big box stores like Walmart also sell mulch by the bag. 
• Online stores- You can buy mulch online and have it shipped to your home. Pretty much every type of mulch is available. This is a good option if you just need a small amount of mulch or if you need a specific type of mulch that you can’t find locally. Shipping can get expensive because mulch is heavy. 

How Much Does Mulch Cost?

The cost of the mulch depends on the type of mulch you order and where you live. Mulch can cost anywhere from $50-$200 per yard.

When you buy mulch, don’t forget to factor in the cost of delivery and installation if you don’t want to install it yourself. The delivery charge is usually around $100-$150 and installation costs around the same per cubic yard.

Final Thoughts

I usually have mulch delivered every other year. In the past, I used to haul mulch myself every year. I realized that the delivery fee was pretty low where I buy my mulch so I just started having it delivered. This way, I don’t have to put wear and tear on my truck, I don’t have to unload it myself, and I don’t have to clean out the truck bed. I had two yards delivered last year. My favorite type of mulch for my flower beds is cedar mulch. I also like pine bark mulch.

Mulch is heavy to haul. 1 scoop weighs around 400-800 pounds. 1 cubic yard weighs around 600-1000 pounds. Bark and wood chips are on the lighter side. Rock, soil, and sand are heavier. Mulch is also sold in 20 and 50 pound bags. This is convenient if you just need a little mulch or if you’re hauling it in a car. 

Mulch is great for your garden. It can help with weed control, soil temperature regulation, moisture retention, and erosion reduction. Mulch also acts as a food source for your plants as it breaks down. Organic mulch provides lots of valuable nutrients. Mulching can help with plant growth. 

Do you haul your own mulch? Share your experience in the comments below!

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More mulching guides from the Homestead Hangout

• How Often Should You Replace Mulch?
• Rubber Mulch Vs Lava Rocks
• Should You Use Landscape Fabric Under Mulch?

The post How Much Does a Cubic Yard of Bulk Mulch Weigh? appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

What is Black Mulch?

Generally, black mulch refers to wood mulch that has been dyed black. It can also refer to black colored inorganic mulch such as black rock, black landscape fabric, or black rubber mulch. Black mulch can work well in gardens, walkways, and any other outdoor space.

This guide focuses on black wood mulch. Black wood mulch is often made from recycled wood or waste wood, usually from pine trees. It is then dyed black using carbon-based dyes to make it appear more attractive and consistent. Bark mulch can also be black.

Black rubber mulch is often made from old tires that have been shredded. Black landscape fabric is made from a type of black woven synthetic material. Rock mulch can also be black. The most common type is lava rock. River rock and pea gravel also come in black. 

Pros of Black Mulch

• It’s attractive- The main reason people use black mulch is because it is aesthetically pleasing. The black color really makes green plants and colorful flowers pop. It can give your flower garden a modern look. It also contrasts nicely with grass. Black goes well with most home colors as well. Black mulch is a great way to enhance the curb appeal of your home. Dyed mulch comes in various colors. Black and red are the most common. 
• Black mulch absorbs heat- This can be both a positive and a negative. The benefit is that black mulch can help keep the soil temperature warmer in cooler climates. This is because dark colors absorb heat from the sun. This heat helps keep the soil warmer. This can extend the growing season slightly. The ground won’t freeze as quickly when the weather starts getting cooler. If you live in a hot climate, this can be a negative. 
• Weed control- Black mulch acts as a weed barrier. It blocks weed seeds that blow in or get dropped by birds from reaching the soil. It also blocks the sunlight from the soil so existing weed seeds have a harder time germinating and growing. Some weeds will still grow but you won’t have to weed as much when you mulch. 
• Moisture retention- Black mulch helps the soil stay moist longer by reducing evaporation. The mulch shades the soil and blocks the wind. This helps with water conservation. You won’t have to water as frequently. You’ll save money on your water bill as well.
• It’s widely available- Black mulch is popular. You can find it at your local garden center. You can buy it by the yard and have it delivered or buy it in bags. 
• It’s long lasting- Dyed mulches decompose slower than other types of mulch because they are treated. The treatment slows down the decomposition process. Black dyed mulch also tends to last longer than other types of dyed mulch. The black color doesn’t fade as fast. The wood will break down over time. On average, you can expect black mulch to last around 2-4 years before you need to add a fresh layer of mulch. Exactly how long it will last depends on the climate where you live. 
• It reduces erosion- Black mulch blocks the impact of heavy rain on the soil surface. It can also absorb some moisture. This helps prevent soil and nutrients from getting washed away during heavy rains.
• Fewer pests- The treatment and dye process kills any insect eggs that could be on the mulch. You don’t have to worry about introducing pests to your yard. Dyed black mulch is also less likely to attract pests such as termites, ants, and rodents. 
• Black mulch is unlikely to be contaminated with fungi or diseases- Most black mulch is kiln-dried. It is then dyed. This process kills off any bacteria or fungal spores. You don’t have to worry as much about introducing disease to your garden. 
• It adds nutrients to the soil- Dyed black mulch is made from wood. As bacteria and other decomposers break the mulch down, some nutrients are released into the soil. This improves soil fertility. Organic matter is also added to the soil. This improves the soil quality. 
• Low maintenance- Dyed black mulch doesn’t require much maintenance after you apply it. You may have to do a bit of weeding once in a while. It will degrade over time. You may need to apply fresh mulch every 2-4 years to keep it looking good. 

Cons of Black Mulch

• It can be expensive- Dyed mulch is more expensive than regular brown mulch. The treatment process adds to the cost. On average, black mulch costs $30-$50 per cubic yard, depending on where you live and the quality of black mulch you buy. If you have a large area to mulch, the cost can add up. There are many cheaper or even free mulch mulches available. If you’re on a tight budget, black mulch isn’t the best option. Instead, consider pine needles, grass clippings, or shredded leaves.
• Heat absorption- Black mulch absorbs a lot of heat due to the dark color. Some of this heat can transfer into the soil. Having a soil temperature that is too high can be really hard on plants. It can overheat their roots. In hot climates, this could kill heat sensitive plants. The heat can also radiate up into your yard. It can even heat up your house. This can make your home less comfortable if it’s too hot. 
• Black mulch can release chemicals into your soil- Dyed mulch can contain a number of potentially harmful chemicals that can end up in your soil as the mulch degrades. The mulch will contain dyes. The dyes used for mulch are supposed to be non-toxic but that’s not always the case. If you’re an organic gardener, you won’t want these chemicals in your vegetable gardens. If your mulch was sourced from recycled wood, it could contain toxic chemicals like creosote or chromated copper arsenate (CCA). These chemicals were used to treat wood in the past. Sometimes wood from demolitions can contain them. Sometimes wood is sourced from old pallets. These can be treated with a chemical called methyl bromide, which is a pesticide. These chemicals can kill beneficial bacteria, earthworms, and beneficial insects. Over time, this can kill your soil and make it less fertile. You don’t have to worry about this with organic mulches. 
• It doesn’t add many nutrients to the soil- One of the main reasons people mulch is to improve soil fertility by adding nutrients. Black mulch will add some nutrients as it degrades but the amount is pretty negligible. This is because the treated mulch degrades slowly. It also doesn’t contain as many nutrients as other types of mulch such as compost.
• It’s made from low-quality wood- Most dyed black mulch is made from trash wood. It’s usually made from old pallets, old decking, or old lumber that was used in buildings that were demolished. After the wood is chipped up, it is dyed to make the color consistent. The dyes are supposedly organic. This old wood could have been treated with CCAs or other toxic wood treatments. Most manufacturers either won’t tell you where the wood came from or they have no idea. There is no way of knowing what kinds of treatments the wood has on them. 
• The dye can get on your hands- While you’re handling the mulch, you may notice some of the dye rubbing off on your hands. You will want to wear gloves while applying it to avoid this. 
• The dye can run- When it rains, some of the dye can run off onto your sidewalk or driveway and cause staining. It can be removed but it will take some scrubbing. This is common when the mulch is fresh. 
• The color will fade over time- Some of the dye will wash away over time. The sun will also bleach the wood. The color will fade. Dyed black mulch won’t always stay black. It will become a bit more gray as it ages. Exactly how fast it will fade depends on whether or not it’s in direct sunlight, the climate, and the quality of mulch you bought. 
• You can’t compost it- It’s best not to compost black mulch because of the dye. You won’t want that in your compost or in your garden. It will also break down slowly because it is usually treated. When it starts to fade or break down, you’ll need to remove the mulch and dispose of it. You may have to haul it to your local waste management facility. Yard waste facilities usually won’t take dyed mulch. This makes black mulch harder to get rid of. It may cost you some money to dispose of it.
• It’s not environmentally friendly- The dye makes black mulch less environmentally friendly than other types of mulch. It is not a completely natural material. It contains chemical dyes and potentially other chemical treatments. It’s best not to contaminate your soil with chemicals, even though they may be non-toxic. Even after the mulch breaks down, these chemicals can stay in your soil for many years. 
• It may not be suitable for dogs- Dogs can sometimes chew on wood chips. This could be harmful to your dog if your black mulch was treated with some type of chemical. The dye probably isn’t good for them either. Rubber mulch can be a choking hazard for dogs. If your dog tends to chew on sticks or wood, consider going with an organic mulch that is undyed or black landscape fabric. 
• Nitrogen depletion can be an issue- Decomposers in the soil have to work hard to break the black mulch down. They use nitrogen to fuel their activity. This removes nitrogen from the soil, which can cause a nitrogen deficiency in your plants. If you notice yellowing of your plants leaves, this may be the issue. It’s a good idea to use some nitrogen rich fertilizer with black mulch to prevent this.  
• It’s not ideal for your vegetable garden or around fruit trees– Dyed black mulch and black rubber mulch should not be used around food that you’re growing. Chemicals from the mulch can leach into the soil. The vegetable plants can absorb these chemicals through their roots. This can slow plant growth. These chemicals can also end up in your food in some cases. You can use black plastic sheeting around vegetable plants. It can be used to suppress weeds and retain moisture in the soil. 
• It could be a fire hazard- All wood mulches are flammable. Particularly when they get dry during the hot summer months. They can absorb heat and dry out quickly. Dry mulch can catch fire easily. Rubber mulch is also flammable. It burns hot and it can be hard to put out after it catches fire. If you live in an area where wildfires are common, it’s best to avoid these mulches around your home. Black landscape fabric can also burn but it’s not as flammable as other types of black mulch. 
• Black mulch may not match your home’s aesthetic- Black doesn’t go with all homes. The black color can also look a little bit unnatural. Sometimes the black is too dark. Black plastic mulch can get torn easily and become an eyesore. Rubber mulch just doesn’t look natural. It is obviously artificial. Some people don’t like the look of these black mulches. They prefer a more natural aesthetic. 

My Experience

I used to use black mulch in my front yard. It looked great in my flower garden. It really made my house stand out. I stopped using it because I didn’t like the idea of the dye ending up in my soil.

These days, I only use organic mulch that is undyed. I want to keep my soil in as good of condition as possible. I also prefer the look of natural mulch. It looks less artificial. I prefer a natural color. I’m a fan of cedar mulch. In my vegetable gardens in my backyard, I often use a free mulch like grass clippings, shredded leaves, or pine straw (pine needles).

Black mulch offers most of the benefits of any other type of mulch. It helps keep the weeds down, retain moisture, and reduce erosion. It’s also a common mulch and it lasts a long time. It degrades slowly so you don’t have to replace it frequently. 

There are some drawbacks to consider before you apply it. Black mulch can contain chemicals and dyes that aren’t great for your soil. It can also cause the soil to overheat because the dark color absorbs a lot of heat from the sun. Black mulch also doesn’t add many nutrients to the soil. It is also more pricey than other mulches as well.

Black mulch isn’t the best mulch for every garden but it can be an excellent choice in some cases. It really comes down to the type of garden you have and your personal preference. Whether or not you choose to use black mulch in your flower beds, I hope this guide has helped you in making your decision. 

Do you use black mulch in your garden? Share your experience in the comments below!

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More mulching guides from The Homestead Hangout

• How Often Should You Replace Mulch?
• How to Get Leaves Out of Mulch
• Mulch Vs Rock for Landscaping

The post The Pros and Cons of Dyed Black Mulch Vs Natural Mulch appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

Benefits of Sawdust Mulch

Sawdust is Cheap or Free

Sawdust is widely available. It’s easy to get sawdust for free. You could ask your local saw mill or even Home Depot. If you ask nicely, they will likely give you some for free. Just bring a bag with you and they’ll fill it up. Be aware that this sawdust could come from a number of different types of wood. It could also contain chemicals if the wood was treated. 

You can also buy sawdust. It usually costs around $15 per yard. When you need a lot of sawdust, buying by the yard is economical. If you just need a small amount for a small garden, you can buy it by the bag online and have it shipped to your home. 

If you can’t find sawdust for sale, you may have better luck finding wood shavings or wood chippings. These fine wood chips are commonly sold for bedding for small animals, like guinea pigs. Wood shavings can also work well for garden mulch. They perform similarly to sawdust. 

Sawdust Can Lower the pH of Your Soil (Make it More Acidic)

If you have soil that is too alkaline, using sawdust mulch can be a great way to lower the pH or make it more acidic. Sawdust is also a good choice for acid-loving plants like blueberries, gardenias, and rhododendrons. Of course, this can also be a negative. You don’t want your soil to be too acidic. If you already have acidic soil, you’ll want to avoid sawdust.

Soil Temperature Regulation

Sawdust insulates the soil. It keeps the soil cooler during the summer by shading the soil. It also keeps the soil warmer during the winter by creating a barrier between the soil and the snow and ice. Sawdust also helps to minimize temperature swings between the day and night. This reduces stress on your plant’s roots. It can also help extend the growing season slightly. Sawdust is a great insulator.

It’s Easy to Apply

You can apply sawdust by hand. It’s lightweight and easy to transport. Try to lay it in a layer 1”-1 ½” deep on top of your soil. Sawdust doesn’t need to be as thick as other types of mulch. After applying the sawdust, you can smooth it out with a rake. You don’t need any special tools to apply it. 

Weed Control

Sawdust acts as a weed barrier. It blocks weed seeds from reaching the soil. It also blocks the sunlight from the soil so existing weed seeds have a harder time germinating and growing. Some weeds will still grow but you won’t have to weed nearly as often as you would if the soil was bare.

It Helps Reduce Erosion

Sawdust blocks the impact of heavy rain on the soil surface. It also absorbs a lot of water. This can help prevent soil and nutrients from being washed away during heavy rains. Some of the sawdust can be washed away if the water is flowing but the soil will stay in place.

It’s Environmentally Friendly 

Sawdust is a byproduct of the lumber industry. It is produced when trees are cut into boards and when boards are cut into smaller boards. Sawdust is a completely organic material. It is just made of wood. It degrades away over time. Sawdust doesn’t add anything bad to your soil, unless it comes from wood that has been treated. 

It Lasts a Long Time

Sawdust mulch will last around a year before it needs to be replaced. That’s longer than mulches like straw or grass clippings, which need to be replaced multiple times per year. It’s not as long as wood chips or bark mulch, which will last 2-3 years. 

It Looks Nice

Sawdust can be a nice-looking mulch. It is a nice woody material. I think it is more attractive than pine needles, shredded leaves, or grass clippings. It may not look as nice as wood chips or bark mulch. 

Drawbacks of Sawdust Mulch

Sawdust Can Temporarily Deplete the Nitrogen in the Soil

As microorganisms break the sawdust down, they use nitrogen from the surrounding soil to fuel their activity. This temporarily reduces the nitrogen content in the area where the sawdust contacts the soil. 

This nitrogen loss can weaken your plants and slow plant growth. Particularly if your plants are younger with shallow roots. Plants need nitrogen to grow. If you notice your plants aren’t growing as well after applying sawdust mulch, they may have a nitrogen deficiency.

Nitrogen depletion really only affects the surface of the soil, unless the sawdust gets tilled in. For this reason, it’s best to use sawdust only on established plants and larger plants. 

It’s important to note that this nitrogen depletion is only temporary. As the mulch decomposes and the bacteria die off, the nitrogen is released back into the soil. This is an issue with all types of wood mulch, not just sawdust. It may be more noticeable with sawdust because it degrades faster. 

You can avoid this issue by applying a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to your garden before applying the sawdust. Alternatively, you can mix nitrogen fertilizer with the sawdust. Another option is to apply a thick layer of nitrogen-rich compost then apply the sawdust on top. This will add extra nitrogen that you plants need. 

Sawdust Can Soak Up Too Much Moisture

One of the main reasons people use mulch is to help retain soil moisture. This way, you don’t have to water as frequently and you don’t use as much water. 

One major drawback of sawdust is that it actually soaks moisture out of the soil. Sawdust is commonly used for soaking up spills. It does a great job of absorbing liquids. After the sawdust soaks water out of the soil, the water evaporates away. Your plants can’t use the moisture in the sawdust. They need moisture in the soil, near their roots. 

When you’re using sawdust as mulch, you may have to water more frequently and you may have to use more water. It’s a good idea to check that the soil is moist once in a while. 

It Breaks Down Quickly

Sawdust doesn’t last as long as other types of wood mulch such as wood chips, shredded wood, or bark. This is because sawdust has more surface area for microorganisms to eat away on. They can break the smaller pieces down faster.

On average, sawdust will last around one year. To compare, wood chips or bark mulch will last at least 2-3 years. You’ll have to mulch more frequently if you use sawdust. 

Sawdust Can Acidify the Soil

Sawdust is acidic. It can lower the pH of your soil. Usually, the soil acidification is pretty minor. It can be an issue if you already have acidic soil or if you grow plants that are sensitive to acidic soil. 

Most plants like soil that is slightly acidic but not too much. The ideal soil for most plants has a pH of around 6-7.5.

It Doesn’t Add Many Nutrients to the Soil

One of the main reasons people use mulch is to make the soil more fertile by adding valuable nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. Sawdust robs your soil of nitrogen. It doesn’t contain many other nutrients. It just has a lot of carbon. It’s not bad for your soil. It just doesn’t add much to it, other than organic matter. It’s not a great soil amendment.

Compaction Can Be an Issue

Sawdust can compact. After it gets wet and starts to degrade, the sawdust can form into a kind of mat. This can block air and water from reaching the soil. It can smother your plants. 

The best way to avoid this is to mix the sawdust with another type of material. This can help improve water and air penetration. The best material to mix with sawdust is compost. The compost will add valuable nutrients, such as nitrogen. It will also help to prevent compaction. You could also mix sawdust with other types of wood mulch. Coffee grounds can also work well.

Sawdust Can Contain Contaminants

You’ll want to be careful where you source your sawdust from. If the sawdust comes from treated wood, it could contain various chemicals. Sometimes wood is treated with preservatives. The sawdust could come from wood that was painted or varnished. You don’t want these chemicals contaminating your garden. This is particularly important if you’re trying to grow an organic garden.

Try to source your sawdust from a place where clean wood is being processed to avoid any chemical contamination. If you buy sawdust, it will usually be advertised that it is clean sawdust made from untreated wood. 

Sawdust is not the Safest Mulch

Sawdust is an irritant. It can irritate your eyes, nose, and throat.  Some people are allergic to it. You can suffer respiratory problems if you breathe it in. Sawdust can also be considered a carcinogen. In addition, sawdust can cause slivers. 

For this reason, you’ll want to be careful while applying sawdust. Wear a mask and goggles so it doesn’t get in your nose and eyes. It’s also a good idea to wear gloves so you don’t get slivers. It’s not a good idea to apply sawdust mulch in areas where kids play.

After the sawdust settles and starts to degrade, it’s safe. Moisture will cause it to stick together so it won’t blow around too much. 

It Can Wash Away

During heavy rains, sawdust can wash away if there is flowing water in your garden beds. You can prevent this by edging your beds to keep the mulch in place. Alternatively, you can use trenches to direct the flowing water away from your flower beds. For more ideas, check out my guide: How to Prevent Mulch From Washing Away.

It Can Attract Pests

Some insect pests could be attracted to sawdust. For example, termites could eat it. Ants could nest in it. If you have a serious pest problem, sawdust may not be the best option. 

How to Apply Sawdust Mulch

1. Prepare your garden- Remove any weeds, fallen leaves, or other debris. These make your garden look messy. They could also provide food for fungi. 
2. Add a layer of compost or manure (optional)- This can help avoid issues with nitrogen depletion. The compost or manure can add essential nutrients to your soil. 
3. Apply a layer of sawdust to the top of the soil around your plants- The layer of sawdust should be 1”-1.5” thick. You can mulch over your whole garden bed or just over the root system of your plants. Don’t let the sawdust touch the stem of your plants or the trunks of trees. This can cause rotting because sawdust holds water well. Leave a gap of at least a couple of inches. 
4. Water- After applying the sawdust, water thoroughly. After watering, stick your finger through the mulch to make sure the soil underneath is wet. If it’s not, your mulch may be blocking the water flow. It’s a good idea to check the moisture level of your soil periodically. Sawdust can retain too much moisture and cause the soil to dry out.
5. Apply fresh mulch as needed- Sawdust degrades relatively quickly because the particles are so small. You’ll need to add a fresh layer around once per year. 

When to Apply Sawdust Mulch

You can apply sawdust at any time of year. The best time to mulch depends on what you’re trying to accomplish. Are you mulching to insulate the soi or to keep the weeds down?

Most gardeners mulch in the early spring. The sawdust will help suppress weeds. Sawdust also makes excellent winter mulch. Apply it before the first frost to help insulate your plants during the frigid winter months. 

If you have leftover sawdust after mulching, you can put it in your compost pile or compost bin. It’s a great carbon rich material. 

My Experience

I use sawdust in my garden when I can get it for free. It’s not my favorite type of mulch but it works just fine. I am careful not to mix it into the soil. I make sure it stays on the top until it’s decomposed. This is to avoid nitrogen depletion. I also apply some compost under the sawdust to add some nutrients. 

Sawdust can be an excellent mulch. It’s cheap or free. It helps keep the weeds down, insulate the soil, and reduce erosion. It can also help increase the acidity of the soil. There are some serious drawbacks to consider. Sawdust can deplete nitrogen in the soil. It’s also not very nutrient rich and it can soak up too much moisture. It’s also not the most long lasting mulch. Whether or not you decide to use sawdust as mulch, I hope this guide has helped in making your decision. 

Do you use sawdust as mulch? Share your experience in the comments below!

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More Mulching Guides from The Homestead Hangout

• Using Straw as Mulch: Pros and Cons
• The Best Mulch for Roses
• How to Get Rid of Mushrooms Growing in Your Mulch

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