What is Soil pH and Why is it Important?

pH is a measurement of how acidic or basic a substance is. It measures the concentration of hydrogen ions to determine acidity. The pH scale runs from 0-14. 7 is a neutral pH. Anything below 7 is acidic. Anything above 7 is alkaline or basic. Acid loving plants usually prefer a pH range of 4.5-5.5. 

It’s important to note that the pH scale is not linear, it’s logarithmic. Each number represents a 10x change. For example, soil with a pH of 5 is 10x more acidic than a pH of 6. It’s important to remember this when adding a pH amendment to your soil. You don’t want to double the amount of peat moss to double the change in pH. 

The soil pH can affect a plant’s ability to take in nutrients from the soil. Certain nutrients may become more or less available for the plant depending on the pH. For example, zinc, iron, and manganese become more available when the pH is lower. A plant can become deficient in certain micronutrients if the pH is too high or too low. Iron deficiency is common. Oftentimes, you can correct these nutrient deficiencies by changing the pH of the soil rather than adding more nutrients to the soil. 

What is Peat Moss?

Peat moss is Sphagnum moss that has been sitting in a bog for hundreds or thousands of years. Sphagnum decays extremely slowly due to the structure of the cell wall. Bogs also create anaerobic decomposition conditions because there is a lack of oxygen. This is a slower type of decomposition than aerobic decay. Peat moss also acidifies its surroundings, which also slows decomposition. 

Peat moss is harvested from bogs, where it has been accumulating and decaying for thousands of years. It is organic matter. It is often used as a soil amendment. Peat moss can be used to increase the acidity of soil. In addition, it helps retain moisture and helps aerate the soil. You can use peat moss in your garden soil or potting mix. 

Does Peat Moss Acidify Soil?

Yes. Peat moss does make your soil more acidic. The best peat moss for acidifying soil is Canadian sphagnum peat moss. It has a pH of 3.0- 4.5. This will effectively lower the pH of your soil. To compare, neutral soil has a pH of 7. Alkaline soil usually has a pH of around 7.5-8. 

Peat moss isn’t always the best way to lower the pH of your soil. Sometimes it isn’t very strong. Most peat moss has a pH of around 5.5. It will really only increase the acidity slightly. Some peat moss found in garden centers is actually almost neutral. 

There are stronger options available. If you really need to make your soil more acidic, you may also have to add some sulfur to your soil. More on that later.

Why Use Peat Moss?

In many places, the natural soil is slightly alkaline. This is often the case when the soil contains lots of limestone. Most plants prefer soil that is neutral to slightly acidic. If your soil is too alkaline, many plants won’t grow well. 

One way to solve this issue is to use peat moss to amend the soil. The peat moss will neutralize the limestone. If you add enough, it will make the soil more acidic. You can mix it with your natural soil or potting soil. 

The use of peat moss isn’t necessary for every garden. Some soil is naturally acidic. By adding peat moss, you could make your soil too acidic for some plants. There are also plants that prefer alkaline soil. 

Before adding peat moss to your soil, it’s a good idea to test the pH. You can pay for a soil test. Some cities offer free or discounted soil testing. You just have to send in some soil samples. You could also buy a pH tester online or at your local garden center. 

How Much Peat Moss Do You Need?

The amount of peat moss you’ll need to lower your soil’s pH depends on a number of factors including the current pH of your soil, the target pH, the type of soil you have (sandy soil, loamy soil, clay soil, etc.), and the amount of soil. It’s hard to say exactly how much peat moss you’ll need.

You will need quite a bit of peat moss to lower the pH. It’s not a very strong amendment. You could start with 10-20% of the volume of the soil then test the pH and add more as needed. This would be a good place to start. Chances are, you’ll need a lot more than that. To decrease the pH, you’ll likely need a peat moss to soil ratio of 1:3. 1 part peat moss and 3 parts soil. In some cases, you may need as much as 1:1 ratio. 

If you need to change the pH substantially, you’re better off just using a little bit of peat moss and also using a stronger soil amendment such as elemental sulfur or aluminum sulfate.

How to Add Peat Moss To Your Soil?

Start by soaking the dry peat moss in some tap water for a few minutes and allowing it to hydrate. If you choose, you can add a little bit of liquid fertilizer to the water. This will enrich the peat moss with some nutrients. Squeeze out any excess water. 

Next mix the peat moss into the top layer of soil. You could mix it in a bucket or just use a shovel to loosen the soil and mix the peat moss in. Alternatively, you can add a layer of peat moss to the top of the soil, like you would add a layer of mulch. Over time, the peat moss will degrade and naturally acidify the soil. 

Other Ways to Acidify Soil

Peat moss isn’t the only option. Elemental sulfur and aluminum sulfate are the most common soil additives used decrease the pH of soil. 

Between these two, elemental sulfur is the safer option. It is commonly available at garden centers and farm supply stores. The drawback is that it takes a long time to work. The soil also needs to be active and warm. It usually takes 3-6 months for the sulfur to decrease the pH.

Aluminum sulfate works much faster. It will lower the pH of your soil in just a few days or weeks. The drawback is that you have to apply much more of it. It also adds aluminum to your soil, which is toxic to plants. 

Another option is ammonium sulfate. This is commonly used on farms. It is used as a fertilizer to add nitrogen to the soil. It can also slowly decrease the pH. 

Benefits of Peat Moss

• Peat moss is an excellent soil additive- It can help neutralize alkaline soil or make your soil more acidic if you’re trying to grow acid-loving plants. 
• Peat moss helps the soil retain more moisture- It is a spongy material. It soaks up water and then slowly releases it. This water retention helps your plants stay hydrated. You also won’t have to use as much water and you won’t have to water as frequently. This saves you money on your water bill and saves you time. 
• Prevents soil compaction- Peat moss helps aerate your soil. It is lightweight and kind of spongy in texture. It helps create air pockets in the soil. This is helpful because your plant roots need oxygen. The roots can also spread more easily when the soil is loose. When the soil becomes compacted, your plants may not get enough water, air, or nutrients to their roots. 
• It holds nutrients- Peat moss can prevent essential nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus from leaching out of the soil or being washed out when you water. It soaks up these nutrients and holds on to them, just like it soaks up moisture. 
• Peat moss is sterilized before it is shipped- It won’t contain any weed seeds, fungi, bacteria, or disease that could infect your plants. This makes it perfectly safe to use. It’s a great choice for starting seeds. 
• Helps reduce erosion- The peat moss can soak up some moisture and help prevent runoff. This helps the soil stay in place and prevents nutrients from getting washed out. 
• It’s natural- Peat moss is a completely natural material. It only contains organic materials. It doesn’t add any chemicals or contaminants to your soil. Over time, it will decay away. 
• Long lasting- Peat moss decays pretty slowly. One application will last 2-3 years. 
• Fast acting- After you apply peat moss, the pH of the soil will start decline within a couple of weeks. You don’t have to wait too long to plant.

Drawbacks of Peat Moss

The biggest drawback of peat moss is that it isn’t sustainable. It takes hundreds and hundreds of years for peat moss to regenerate after it is harvested. It is being overharvested in many places because it’s so valuable. People love using it in their gardens.

The problem is that, once it’s gone, it won’t come back in our lifetimes. Technically, it is renewable because it will regenerate naturally. Practically, it is a non-renewable resource because it takes so long to generate. 

This is a problem because removing the peat moss destroys natural habitat for many birds and insects. Mining of peat moss can also release carbon into the atmosphere. Peat fields or bogs are drained to mine peat moss. They can dry out and catch fire. When they burn, carbon that accumulated there for thousands of years can be released into the atmosphere. This makes peat moss harvesting potentially harmful to the environment. It could contribute to global warming. Some countries have started to restrict or ban the harvest of peat moss to help preserve the peatlands. 

Another drawback of peat moss is that is’t fairly expensive. It costs around $4-$5 per cubic foot. That’s around three times the price of other popular soil amendments like compost, manure, or bark mulch. It’s expensive because it needs to be shipped internationally. Most peat moss that is sold in the United States comes from sphagnum peat bogs in Canada. 

Peat moss also doesn’t contain many nutrients. You can’t grow directly in peat moss. You need some other type of growing medium. If you soil is low in nutrients, you may need to add some compost or slow release fertilizer along with the peat moss.  

Peat moss can also be too acidic for some types of garden plants. You won’t want to treat all of your soil with it. Particularly if you already have acidic soil. You’ll only want to use it if your soil is too alkaline or if you want to grow some acid loving plants. 

Some Other Common Soil Amendment Options

There are some alternative soil amendments that can be used to lower the pH of your soil slightly. Coconut coir is one popular option. Coco coir is a type of peat that’s made from coconut. Pine needles and pine bark can also be used.

These materials are not as acidic as peat moss but they could help to acidify the soil slightly. They can also help with water retention and erosion reduction. They perform similarly to peat moss.

My Experience

A few years back, I did a soil test and found that my soil was slightly alkaline. I wanted to plant some blueberries on my homestead and was worried that they wouldn’t grow well because the soil pH was too high. 

After some research, I decided to try amending the soil with peat moss. I liked that it is a natural material. When I can avoid it, I don’t like adding chemicals to my soil when I can avoid it. I added some peat moss to the soil where I planned to plant my blueberries. After a couple of weeks, I tested the soil again and found that the pH had dropped. It wasn’t substantial but it had certainly dropped. I decided to add a little more before planting my blueberries. They’re still growing fine to this day. 

Peat moss can be used to increase the acidity of your soil. It’s not the fastest or most efficient way to lower the pH but it can work. If you need to lower the pH more substantially, elemental sulfur or aluminum sulfate are also great soil amendments. 

Peat moss has many benefits in addition to increasing soil acidity. It helps retain moisture and nutrients, reduce soil compaction, and reduce erosion. It’s also safe to use because it is sterile and natural. The main drawback of peat moss is that it isn’t sustainable because it takes many years to replenish itself. It is being overharvested in parts of the world. It’s also fairly expensive. 

Have you used peat moss to lower the pH of your soil? Share your experience in the comments below!

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The post Does Peat Moss Make Soil Acidic + Pros and Cons appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

1. Overwatering

Overwatering is probably the most common cause of succulent problems. It can cause the leaves to turn yellow or become soft and mushy. If you continue overwatering, the leaves can start falling off. Eventually, you succulent will die. Overwatering also makes it easier for mold and fungus to grow on the soil surface. Fungi grow in moist environments. Pests can also become an issue. They are attracted to the moisture.

If you suspect that overwatering may be causing your plant problems, stop watering immediately and asses. To avoid overwatering, let the soil dry out completely before you water again. You may only have to water once every two weeks. Watering weekly is usually too much.

Also, make sure the container that your succulent is in has drainage holes at the bottom so the water can escape. Make sure the tray that it’s sitting in isn’t full of excess water. Check the soil to make sure it doesn’t retain too much water. If the soil stays wet for too long, consider replacing it with a faster draining soil.

If you’ve overwatered for a long time, it may be too late. Overwatering is one of the fastest ways to kill a succulent. Removing any soggy or yellow leaves can help. You could also take a cutting from a healthy part of the plant, wait for it to callous over, then plant it in new soil. Wait a few days before you water it. You should see new growth relatively quickly. 

2. Underwatering

Underwatering is another common cause of succulent problems. Succulents can go a long time without water. They are desert plants. Most species can survive at least a couple of months between watering. 

When your succulents don’t get enough water, the leaves can turn brown, shrivel up, and eventually fall off.  The stem can also shrivel up. Over time, the roots can slowly die off. When you water, there may not be enough root mass to soak up the moisture.

To avoid underwatering, check the soil moisture frequently. Water when the soil feels like it’s dry. One method you can use is to stick a chopstick into the soil. If it comes out dry, it’s time to water. When it’s wet, wait to water. 

If you have underwatered your succulent, give it a healthy watering and see what happens. Most likely, it will survive. The leaves should return to normal over the next couple of waterings. Be careful not to start overwatering.

3. Root Rot

Root rot is usually caused by overwatering. It can also be caused by using soil that holds too much water or by growing succulents in a pot that doesn’t drain well. Trying to grow a succulent in a low-light environment or a cold environment can also lead to root rot. 

When the soil stays too wet for too long, the roots can’t get enough oxygen and they start to die. The leaves can start turning yellow or black, shriveling up, and falling off. When this happens, the plant can show the same signs as underwatering. 

If you suspect root rot, stop watering your plant immediately. If the root rot is minor, the plant will often recover. When the root rot is advanced, the plant will likely die. You could take a cutting from a healthy part of the plant and propagate it. 

The best way to avoid root rot is to let the soil dry out completely between waterings. When you water, wet the soil completely. Also, use a soil that drains quickly. Avoid soils that hold too much water. Make sure the pot you’re using has plenty of drain holes. Also, make sure your succulents are in a well lit area with good air circulation so the soil can dry out. 

4. Leaves Falling Off

If leaves start falling off your succulent, there is probably a problem. The most common cause of leaf drop is overwatering. When you overwater, the leaves swell and become mushy. Eventually, they fall off. Underwatering can also cause leaf drop. Succulent leaves eventually dry up and fall off. They shed leaves to preserve moisture.

To fix the issue, change your watering habits. Monitor the soil moisture level. Wait until the soil is dry before you water again. Also, make sure the potting soil you’re using is quick draining. If the soil holds too much moisture, repot your plant in a faster draining soil. Also, make sure you’re also using a pot that has plenty of drain holes. Before repotting your plant, let it dry out for a few days. 

Another potential cause of leaves falling off is extreme temperatures. Succulents can withstand a wide range of temperatures. Sometimes, when a succulent plant gets too hot, the leaves can start falling off. The plant does this to conserve energy, maintain water, and survive. This is a natural response to drought. 

To reduce stress on the plant, you can move it to a shadier location where it will be cooler. You may also need to water a little more frequently when the weather is extremely hot. 

Leaf drop can be normal. If a couple of leaves fall off, that’s not really cause for concern. If multiple leaves start dropping off all at once, there is likely something wrong. 

5. Leaves Turning Yellow

If your succulent plant’s leaves are turning yellow, that can be a sign that something is wrong. Probably the most common cause of yellow leaves is a watering issue. Both overwatering and underwatering can cause the leaves to yellow. 

If you overwater, the leaves can turn yellow and swell up. They will feel mushy to the touch. If you underwater, the leaves can turn yellow and shrivel up and wilt.   

To solve this problem, change your watering habits. If you have been overwatering, wait for the soil to dry out between waterings. If you have been underwatering, water more thoroughly when you water. For most succulents, you should water them until water drips out of the bottom of the pot. You should wait for the soil to dry out completely before you water again. 

Another potential cause of yellow leaves is a lack of nutrients. Most potting soil comes with fertilizer mixed in. Eventually, those nutrients will be used up. Your plant will absorb them and some will be washed out with watering. When the nutrients are gone, your plant’s health can start to decline and the leaves can yellow.

To solve this issue, fertilize your succulent or repot it in fresh potting mix. Use a fertilizer that is designed for houseplants or cacti and succulents. Succulents do not need a lot of nutrients. It’s a good idea to dilute the fertilizer. Apply it when you water. Apply half the recommended dose first to see how your plant responds. If you choose to repot, be sure to use a potting mix that is well-draining.

Pests can also cause the leaves to turn yellow. Over long periods of time, certain pests can eat enough of the roots that the plant has to drop some leaves to try to save itself. Of course, pests can also eat the leaves. Inspect your plant for pests if you notice leaves yellowing and use a pesticide to get rid of them. 

Leaf yellowing can also be normal. Leaves don’t live forever. Sometimes they turn yellow and fall off. If a small number of old leaves turn yellow, it may not be an issue at all. Leaf yellowing is an issue when new leaves or a lot of leaves start turning yellow. 

6. Sun Damage and Brown Spots on Leaves

Brown spots on the leaves are most likely caused by sun damage. The leaves can get scorched when too much sunlight hits them. This is kind of like sunburn on a human. A succulent can experience sunburn if it is exposed to direct intense sunlight for long periods of time. Sometimes, sunburn can happen if you move your succulent from a shady spot to a very sunny spot. The change shocks the plant. This condition is more common in succulents with thin leaves. Thicker leaves are harder to burn. 

The solution is to move the plant to a shadier location during a heatwave. Also, if you plan to move succulents outside or to a sunnier location, try to slowly increase the amount of sunlight it gets to acclimatize it. Don’t put newly propagated succulents in direct sunlight.

If you notice sun damage on your succulent, you can remove the leaves with brown patches. They will eventually drop on their own. Brown leaves won’t recover. 

Generally, succulents prefer full indirect sunlight. Place them behind a thin shade cloth or a glass window. That will block some of the sun’s harmful UV rays.  They don’t like full sun. 

7. Withered or Shriveled Up Leaves

If you notice that the leaves look like they are withered or shriveled, the most common cause is underwatering. This usually affects the top of the plant first. 

If underwatering is the issue, it’s an easy problem to solve. Start watering your succulent more thoroughly and more frequently. The plant will quickly recover in most cases. Succulents need more water during the growing season and during heatwaves. 

Be sure not to start overwatering. It’s easy to overcompensate. Let the soil drain and dry out completely before watering again. When you do water, water thoroughly so water is leaking out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. 

In some cases, overwatering can also cause the leaves to look withered and shriveled. The leaves can appear limp and they may fall off. If you think overwatering is the issue, let the soil completely dry out between waterings. Consider repotting the plant in a soil that drains better. 

8. Mushy Leaves

Mushy leaves are a sign that you have been overwatering your succulent. If you notice the leaves start to turn mushy, immediately stop watering your succulent and let the soil dry out completely. Also, make sure your succulent is in a pot that drains well.

There is a chance that your plant will make it. There is also a good chance that it won’t. Overwatering is the fastest way to kill a succulent. If it’s too far gone, it won’t recover. Overwatering can damage the leaves beyond repair. 

Cold weather can also cause mushy leaves. Frost can quickly kill the leaves. When they thaw out, they will be mushy. If this happens, the plant is unlikely to survive unless the frost was minor. In that case, you may be able to remove the dead leaves. If you expect cold weather, make sure your succulent is in a warm place in your home. Cold weather is only an issue with tropical succulents. Cold hardy species can survive in freezing weather. 

9. Frost or Cold Damage

The cold can damage tropical species of succulents. Tropical species do best when the weather is at least 50-60 degrees. A mild frost can cause serious damage. It could easily kill your plants. If you have tropical succulents outside and you expect the temperatures to drop below freezing, bring them inside. If you just expect cool weather, cover them with a frost cloth, just in case. In the spring, trim off any leaves that have died. 

Cold hardy species of succulents can survive a mild frost. They are usually okay down to 30-40 degrees. Some can tolerate even lower temperatures. If you expect particularly cold weather, it’s a good idea to bring them inside.

10. Stretching

Stretching happens when your succulent doesn’t get enough sunlight. Your plant will look thin and spindly. This condition is known as etiolation. 

The stem will stretch out toward the light source in an attempt to find more light. The leaves may also become flatter and wider to try to collect more light. The space between leaves will also be wider. This is how plants naturally respond to a lack of light.

This condition doesn’t happen overnight. It takes months for a succulent plant to etiolate because they are naturally slow-growing. 

If you notice your succulent starting to become kind of spindly, move it to a different location where there is more light. Ideally, it should have full, indirect light. A south or east facing window will work well. 

Try to slowly give your plant more light. You don’t want to move it from a dark spot indoors to a spot with full direct light outdoors. This could give your plant sun damage or shock it. Try to slowly increase the amount of light. It’s also a good idea to rotate your plants so they grow evenly. You don’t want one side always facing the sun and one side always facing away from the sun. 

If you can’t provide more natural light for your succulent, you can use a full-spectrum grow light. Fluorescent or LED will work fine. Set the grow light up so it is within 12 inches of your plants. Put it on a timer so it runs for 12-16 hours per day. The bright light will help your succulents grow. 

Some species of succulents can naturally recover from a lack of light. They will fill out over time. Others will need to be pruned. You will need to cut off the lanky sections and allow them to regrow. Other species will never recover. This is often the case with barrel-type cacti. They may be permanently misshapen by a lack of light. They will always look a bit thin and spindly. 

11. Mealybugs

Pests can infest succulent plants. One of the more common types of pests are mealybugs. They look kind of like a white mass on your plant. They are usually found where the leaves meet the stem. Mealybugs feed on the plant’s sap. They release a sticky substance onto your plant’s leaves. 

The most common way to bring mealy bugs into your home is on a plant. Once one plant is infested, they can easily spread to nearby houseplants. Before bringing a new plant into your home, it’s a good idea to inspect for pests. Of course, mealybugs can also enter your home through an open door or window and find their way to your plants. 

If you notice mealybugs on your succulent, immediately, isolate it from your other plants so the bugs don’t spread and treat them. Start by physically removing any white masses on your plants. This will reduce the infestation. Use rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab and dab it on the bugs to kill them. You could also spray the plant with diluted rubbing alcohol. You can also use neem oil or an insecticidal soap to kill them. 

Mealybugs are fairly easy to treat if you catch them early. it will likely take 3-5 treatments to get rid of them completely. Keep an eye on your other plants to make sure you don’t end up with an infestation. If you can’t get rid of the mealybugs, you may have to get rid of the plant so the infestation doesn’t spread.

For more info, check out my guide: How to Get Rid of Silver Bugs on Houseplants.

12. Scale Insects

Scale insects are some of the most common succulent pests. In small numbers, they are pretty harmless. They can do a small amount of damage to your plant’s leaves. They also leave a sticky sap on the leaves. If you don’t treat them, they can multiply. In large numbers, they can cause significant damage to your plant. 

Before bringing new plants into your house, inspect for scale insects. They can be hard to spot because they usually don’t move after they latch on to your plant. They look like little brown discs. If you put your plants outside, inspect them before bringing them inside again. 

13. Brown or Black Spots

Small brown or black spots on the leaves is a relatively common problem on succulents. There can be a number of causes. 

If the tips of some of the leaves start to turn brown, it could be a sign of overwatering. Sun damage could cause one part of the plant to turn brown if the sunlight was focused on a particular area. Physical damage can also cause a brown spot. Maybe someone bumped into the plant and damaged some leaves or maybe some pests chewed holes into the leaves. Frost could also create brown spots by damaging parts of the plant. A fungal disease could also create brown or black spots. 

Generally, brown and black spots are permanent. They are a way for a plant to protect itself after it was damaged. They are kind of like a scab but they don’t go away. In some cases, you may be able to remove the section where the dark spots are. For example, if there a couple of leaves that were damaged, you could remove them. 

14. Slow Growth or No Growth

Slow growth can take a long time to notice. Your succulent may look perfectly fine but it just doesn’t produce any new growth. This is a problem. Succulents grow slowly but they do grow. 

There are a few potential causes of slow growth. Most likely, your succulent isn’t receiving enough light. Without sufficient light, the plant will grow extremely slowly. If there is any new growth, it will be sparse and spindly.

The solution is to move your plant to a location with more light. For indoor plants, a south or east facing window is ideal. It’s best to slowly give your plant more light so you don’t shock your plant or allow it to burn. Don’t move it from a dark location indoors to full direct sunlight outdoors. Move your plant to a brighter location and keep an eye on it to see how it reacts.

A lack of nutrients can also cause slow growth or no growth. If your succulent has been in the same pot for over 2 years, it could have depleted all of the nutrients in the soil. Most potting soil comes with some compost or fertilizer mixed in. Over time, the nutrients get used up by the plant. Some get washed out as you water.

To replenish the nutrients, you can add fertilizer. Look for a fertilizer that is designed for houseplants or cacti and succulents. Follow the directions on the bottle. Succulents do not need a lot of nutrients. Consider applying half the recommended dose to see how your plant responds then add more if necessary. 

Instead of applying fertilizer, you could repot your succulent in fresh potting soil. The potting soil will have nutrients already mixed in. Look for a well-draining soil or look for a potting mix that is specifically designed for succulents. The nutrients in the new potting soil will last for around 2 years. 

Your succulent could also be growing slowly because it’s in a pot that is too small. If the roots are growing out of the drainage holes, this is a sign that the pot is too small. If your succulent has outgrown its pot, transplant it into a larger pot.

15. Corking

Corking is a condition where older sections of the plant turn brown. The brown material will be tough and somewhat spongy. Usually, it will start at the bottom of the plant. It could also appear randomly all over the plant. Corking is a way for a plant to protect itself from damage. Kind of like humans develop a callous or scab. 

There are a few potential causes of corking. Age is the most common cause. On an old succulent, sometimes older sections will have trouble replacing cells so they will start to turn brown and cork. In this case, there is nothing you can do. The plant is just growing old. 

Corking can also develop on sections of the plant that were physically damaged. Maybe the plant was knocked over and a section was broken. Maybe pests damaged some leaves. The plant may cork those sections in an attempt to protect itself from disease.

It’s also possible to cause corking by overwatering or underwatering. Sometimes leaves can be damaged when you overwater. They can swell too much. They can then cork if they get damaged. 

Corking is permanent. It won’t go away on its own. There isn’t really any treatment for it. In some cases, you may be able to cut off some of the old sections of the plant that are corking. If there is corking near the base of the plant, it will probably just have to stay there. 

16. Disease

Succulents are pretty hardy but there are some diseases that can affect them. Usually, disease won’t kill a succulent. They have pretty strong immune systems. It could disfigure your plant and make it less attractive. 

Before buying a new succulent, inspect it carefully for disease. Look for any unhealthy sections or strange blemishes. You don’t want to bring a diseased plant into your home because it could spread to your other plants. A fungal infection can easily spread. 

When you’re caring for your plants, always use clean tools. If you prune your plant with contaminated tools, you could spread disease. Also, make sure there is good air circulation around the plant. Fungal diseases like humid areas with stagnant air. 

If you spot pests on your plants, deal with them quickly. Most pests won’t really harm your plants but they can spread disease that can cause serious damage. Aphids and thrips are particularly dangerous. Use a pesticide to get rid of them if you spot them. 

If your plant does get infected with a disease try to treat it quickly. Use a fungicide. Repotting your plant in fresh soil can also help. If you do this, be sure to clean the pot out and sanitize it. Also, remove as much soil as possible from the roots. Usually, plants can be saved if you act fast. 

17. Dead Lower Leaves

Over time, the lower leaves will naturally wither, dry out, and fall off. This is natural. It is not a cause for concern. These are the old leaves. They will fall off naturally or you can pluck them off when they’re dead.

It’s a good idea to pick any leaves that have fallen off out of the soil. This will help prevent insect infestations and mold. 

Can You Save Your Succulent?

If you damage your succulent by overwatering, underwatering, or giving it too much or too little light, there is a good chance that you can save it if you catch it early. Succulents are pretty hardy plants. There are cases where a succulent is damaged beyond repair.  

When you notice a problem with your succulent, immediately stop doing whatever you were doing wrong. Examine your succulent carefully to check the extent of the damage. Check the roots to see if there is root rot. Look at the leaves to see how many of them are damaged.

If you find that there are a good amount of healthy roots and leaves, your plant will likely recover. If there is extensive damage to the root system such as rotted, dried, or black roots, or if the stem and leaves are mushy, the plant likely can’t be saved. 

My Experience

I have always kept a few succulents in my home. I like them because they’re so low maintenance. They only need to be watered once every couple of weeks and fertilized once every couple of years. I think they look nice as well.

Over the years, I have had a few issues with them. I killed a couple by overwatering when I first started keeping them. Quickly, I learned to only water when the soil was dry. I have also damaged a couple through lack of light. One looks pretty spindly but it’s still hanging in there. 

The most common problems for succulents are overwatering, underwatering, and insufficient light. Nutrient deficiency can also be an issue. Pests like mealybugs can be an issue in some places.  

To keep your succulent healthy, water it completely until water starts flowing out of the drain holes then let the soil dry out completely before you water again. Keep your succulent in a place where it gets full indirect light. It should get at least 8-10 hours of light per day. If you’ve kept your succulent in the same potting soil for the past 2 years, consider applying a bit of fertilizer or repotting it in a new potting mix. These tips will keep your succulent healthy for years to come. Healthy succulents will last for many years. 

Have you had any problems with your succulent plants? Share your experience in the comments below!

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The post 17 Common Succulent Problems and How to Fix Them appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

Mulch benefits roses in a number of ways. It helps hold moisture in the soil, suppress weed growth, insulate the roots, and reduce erosion. As the mulch degrades, it adds valuable nutrients and organic matter to the soil. This helps you grow healthier roses.

This guide outlines some of the best mulches for roses and lists some benefits and drawbacks of each. I’ll also explain how and when to apply mulch to your rose beds for best results. All types of roses can benefit from mulch.

The Best Mulches for Roses

Wood Chips

Wood chips are one of the best types of mulch for roses. There are lots of different types of wood chips to choose from including cedar mulch, hardwood mulches like hickory and oak, or pine mulch. They can all work fine for roses.

Wood chips also come in different textures. There are chips and shreds. Different sizes are available. Generally, smaller shreds are better for roses than larger chips. Triple shredded wood mulch is perfect.

There are a number advantages of wood chips. Most importantly, they are attractive. Shredded red cedar or cypress chips will compliment the color of your roses. Hardwood mulches come in various colors from dark brown to red. They can really make the color of your roses pop. 

Wood chips are also long-lasting. They can last 2-3 years before you need to apply a fresh layer. Cedar chips can last 3-5 years. Wood chips also stay in place well. They don’t blow away.

Of course, wood chips also suppress weeds, retain soil moisture, insulate the soil, prevents soil compaction, and reduce erosion, just like other types of mulch. They add some nutrients to the soil as they degrade.

There are a couple of drawbacks to consider. Wood much can temporarily deplete the nitrogen in the soil surface. Microbes use the nitrogen to fuel their activity then release it when they die off. You can avoid this by applying a nitrogen-rich fertilizer or compost before applying the wood chips.

Some types of wood chips can increase the acidity of the soil (lower the soil pH). This is a problem with pine mulch. The acidity increase is usually negligible but it could be an issue if your soil is already acidic. Roses prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH of around 6.5.

Bark Mulch

Bark mulch also works well for roses. It performs similarly to wood mulch. Bark mulch has pretty much the same benefits and drawbacks. Pine bark is one of the most popular types of mulch. 

Bark is long-lasting. It also suppresses weeds, retains moisture, and helps regulate soil temperature. Bark mulch is also attractive. It has a nice dark brown color that can really make your roses stand out. It’s also available in a range of textures from large bark nuggets to small chips to fine particles called bark dust. 

Bark doesn’t provide many nutrients as it degrades. It can also deplete nitrogen and increase soil acidity, like wood. 

Straw Mulch

Straw mulch can be a good choice for your rose garden. Probably the best thing about straw is that it’s cheap and widely available. It’s also easy to spread by hand. You can just grab bundles of it and spread it around your rose bushes. You don’t need any tools. Apply a layer 4-8” thick. It will settle down to 3-4″ over time.

There are a few different types of straw to choose from. Most straw is made from wheat, rye, or barley. Rice straw is also available. It is made from the stocks of plants after the grain has been removed. You could also use hay but it can contain more weed seeds. 

Straw is a great insulator. It will help keep your rose’s roots warmer in the winter. This is helpful if you live in an extremely cold climate. Roses are hardy but they need some winter protection. It keeps the soil temperature more consistent.

The straw will also add nutrients and organic matter to the soil as it breaks down. This improves soil quality. Straw isn’t as nutrient-rich as other types of mulch but it does contain some nutrients. Straw also does a great job of retaining soil moisture. 

There are a few drawbacks of straw mulch. It can attract pests. Rodents like to nest in the soft straw. The rodents can attract snakes. If you have a rodent problem, it’s best not to use straw. Straw can also blow around during heavy winds. It also degrades quickly. You will need to add a fresh layer several times per year. This adds work. 

Shredded Leaves or Leaf Mold

Shredded leaves also make great mulch for roses. It’s important to shred the leaves before using them as mulch. If you apply whole leaves, they can block water and air from passing into the soil. They can also trap too much moisture in the soil and cause molding and disease. Whole leaves also take too long to break down. You could also make leaf mold before applying the leaves. 

Leaf mulch is easy to apply. Shredded leaves help insulate the soil and keep the soil temperature more consistent. In addition, they improve moisture retention. When they break down, they release valuable nutrients and add organic material to the soil. 

Maybe the best thing about leaf mulch is that it’s free. You can use the leaves that fall from the trees around your home. Just rake them up then shred them and scatter them around the base of your rose bushes. Check out my guide to shredding leaves for mulch for more info.

Pine Straw (Pine Needles)

Pine straw is a great free type of mulch for roses. It does a good job of insulating the soil, retaining moisture, and suppressing weeds. It’s also easy to apply. Pine needle mulch can also help keep certain pests away, such as slugs. Maybe the best thing about pine straw is that it’s free if you have pine trees on your property. Pine straw works best when you apply a layer around 3” thick.

One potential drawback of pine straw is that it can make your soil more acidic. This is only an issue if you apply fresh pine straw. Before you apply pine straw to your roses, let it dry out.

For more info, check out my guide to the pros and cons of pine straw mulch.

Grass Clippings

Grass clippings are another great free type of mulch for roses. While you’re mowing, bag your clippings then lay them out to dry. After they’re dry, you can use them as mulch around your roses. Apply a layer 2-4” thick.  

It’s important to let grass clippings dry before you apply them. This is because they can mold if you apply them when they’re fresh. They can also form into a mat that blocks air and water from reaching the soil. When they’re dry, they are looser and less likely to mold. 

Grass clippings are an excellent source of nitrogen. They also help suppress weeds. They are also a great insulator. You will need to add fresh grass clippings periodically throughout the growing season because they break down quickly.

Compost

Compost is great for roses. You can make your own organic compost from kitchen scraps and yard waste or you can buy compost like manure at your local garden center. Apply a thin layer of compost around 0.5-1” thick around the base of your roses. It’s best to apply it in the spring. You can then apply another mulch, wood chips, on top.

There are a few benefits of using compost. Most importantly, it provides lots of nutrients to your roses. Compost is high in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other important nutrients that your plants need. These nutrients will slowly be released into the soil to feed your roses. 

Compost also improves the soil structure by adding organic matter to the soil. This helps the soil retain moisture better and resist compaction. This makes the soil more fertile. Compost also increases soil mass. I have a small compost pile in my backyard. Once a year or so, I put some around my roses. 

There are a couple of drawbacks. Compost can be smelly and it can attract pests. It also takes a long time to make your own compost.

Rock Mulch

Rock mulch like gravel, lava rocks, or river rocks can work well for roses. The best gravel for roses is ¾” or 2 cm. Apply a layer around 2-3” thick around the base of the plants. 

Rock can look nice. It is available in a wide range of colors, textures, and sizes. It can also do a good job of keeping the weeds down. Probably the best thing about rock is that it is low-maintenance and long-lasting. It pretty much never needs to be replaced. 

There are quite a few drawbacks to consider. Rock mulch doesn’t add any nutrients to the soil. It’s inorganic. Most gardeners don’t like it for this reason. Rock is also difficult to remove. It can get pushed into the soil. You can use landscaping fabric to prevent this. Some people also don’t like the look of gravel. 

Another drawback of gravel mulch is that it can hold heat. The sun heats the gravel up on a hot day and some of the heat transfers into the soil. In a hot climate, this can overheat the root zone. In extreme conditions, this could kill off your plants. You don’t have to worry about this in most climates. If you live in a particularly hot climate, it is something to consider. 

For more info, check out my guide to rock mulch. 

Landscape Fabric

Some gardeners like to use landscape fabric or black plastic sheeting to keep the weeds down. These materials also hold moisture in the soil by preventing it from evaporating. They also help keep the soil warmer.

There are quite a few drawbacks. Because plastic sheeting is inorganic, it doesn’t add any nutrients to the soil. It can also get torn up over time and introduce microplastics into the soil. Many organic gardeners don’t like using synthetic materials in their gardens. Plastic sheeting can prevent moisture from making its way into the soil. Landscape fabric can also become an eyesore once it gets torn. Weeds can also grow on top of it or through it. It doesn’t eliminate weeds.

Peat Moss

Peat moss can also be a great mulch for roses. It will help maintain moist soil. Peat moss can also help improve the soil structure. It makes the soil less likely to compact. This allows air and water to pass through more easily. This is great if the native soil has poor drainage. It’s great for sandy soils.

Peat moss is usually used as a soil amendment rather than a mulch. Peat moss is a natural product but it is not very environmentally friendly because it is being over harvested in many places. 

Mulches to Avoid

• Dyed mulch- Some wood chips are dyed different colors such as red, green, black, or yellow. The dyes can contain chemicals that end up in your soil when the mulch decays. It’s best to avoid these mulches. These dyes are designed to be non-toxic but it’s still best not to have them in your soil. 
• Recycled wood mulch or mulch made from waste wood- It’s best to avoid these mulches because you don’t know where they came from. They could contain remnants from pesticides, herbicides, fertilizers, or other chemical treatments.
• Black Plastic Sheeting- Plastic sheeting doesn’t allow enough water or air to pass through. It also blocks nutrients from getting to the soil. This can slow the growth of your roses.
• Inorganic mulches- Inorganic mulches, like rocks and rubber mulch can work fine for roses but they don’t add any nutrients to the soil. They can help keep the weeds down and insulate the soil but that’s about it. 

When to Mulch Roses

The best time to mulch roses is in the early spring. If you live in a cold climate, late spring may be better. The mulch will help keep the weeds down throughout the year. It will help shade the soil to keep it cooler. It will also break down and provide nutrients. This is when I usually mulch my garden. 

You can also apply mulch in the late summer or early fall. Late August or early September is a good time to mulch. This is a good option if you live in a cold climate. The mulch can help insulate the soil to protect your rose’s roots from the cold when temperatures start to drop.

It’s also a good idea to mulch whenever your old mulch is getting thin. If you notice that the soil is starting to show through, apply a fresh layer of mulch. 

You should also mulch new roses after you plant them. Mulching can give them some extra protection and nutrients. This can help new or young plants.

You can really mulch at any time of year. There is no bad time to mulch. Some times are just better than others. 

How to Mulch Roses

1. Remove weeds and grass growing around your rose bushes- Weeds that are already growing could grow through the mulch. They can also rob nutrients from your roses. It’s best to remove them before applying mulch. You should also remove any other debris, such as old leaves, twigs, etc. If there is grass growing around the base of your roses, remove it.
2. Apply a layer of compost (optional)- If you’re using a mulch that isn’t very nutrient rich, consider applying a layer of compost or manure first. This will give your roses some nutrients.
3. Spread the mulch around your roses- As we have seen, there are lots of different types of mulch you could use. I recommend wood chips, bark, or pine straw. Most mulches should be applied 2-4” deep. The mulch should be at least as wide as the canopy of your rose bushes. You could mulch the whole bed if you choose. Leave a gap of around 4 inches around the base of your rose plants. If you apply mulch right up to the base, it could rot your roses. If you’re applying fresh mulch over old mulch, make sure the total depth doesn’t exceed 4 inches. You don’t want the mulch to be too thick. If you apply too much mulch, air and water have a hard time reaching the soil. It can also prevent moisture from evaporating. This can lead to root rot and other fungal diseases.
4. Water- After mulching water your roses thoroughly. After watering, stick your fingers through the mulch to feel the soil underneath. It should be wet. If it’s not, your mulch is blocking the water flow. You should check the moisture once in a while to make sure it isn’t blocking moisture or retaining too much moisture.
5. Apply more mulch periodically- Keep an eye on your roses and apply fresh mulch after the first layer decays. Some mulch types break down faster than others. You might have to replace straw mulch a few times per year. Wood chips last 1-2 years.

My Experience

My favorite type of mulch for roses is wood chips or shredded wood. Usually, I use shredded redwood. Shredded cedar mulch is my favorite, even though it is a little bit expensive. Sometimes, I’ll use dark brown bark mulch. 

I like the way these mulches look. They make the roses stand out. I also like that they are long-lasting. I usually only have to add a fresh mulch layer every other year. They may not be as nutrient-rich as other types of mulch but the low maintenance makes up for it. 

It’s always a good idea to mulch your roses. Mulch helps suppress weeds, reduce erosion, insulate the soil, and retain soil moisture. Really, any type of organic mulch will work well for rose bushes. They aren’t too picky. When buying mulch, make sure it comes from a reputable source so you don’t end up with mulch that has been treated with herbicides, mulch that is diseased, or mulch that contains weed seeds.

Which type of mulch do you use on your roses? Share your experience in the comments below!

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In most cases, you can simply scrape the mold off the top of the soil and throw it away. If you have a bad mold problem, you can use a fungicide to get rid of the mold. If the mold is in houseplant soil, you can replace the soil and re-pot the plant.  

In this guide, I’ll explain how to get rid of yellow mold or fungus on your soil and prevent it from coming back in the future. Yellow mold is a pretty common problem. Luckily, it’s fairly easy to treat.

What is Yellow Mold?

There are many different types of yellow mold. Some of most common types of mold you’re likely to find is are slime molds. These tend to be yellowish in color. One common variety is called Fuligo septica. This is sometimes referred to as ‘dog vomit slime mold’.

Mold can grow in different ways. It can appear fuzzy, slimy, or powdery in texture. Yellow mold is often slimy. It usually grows on the top layer of soil. It is generally harmless and usually goes away on its own when the conditions change. 

There are also some yellow types of mushrooms that can grow on your soil. One variety is Leucocoprinus birnbaumii (also known as Lepiota lutea). These are a type of yellow mushrooms that are commonly found growing on houseplants. In fact, they’re sometimes referred to as the ‘yellow houseplant mushroom.’ These are usually around 3-8 cm tall. They have a bell or oval shape, depending on their age. The yellow color often fades as these mushrooms age. 

Mold and mushrooms grow best on soil that is moist, dark, and lacking oxygen. These are common on soil that has mulch that hasn’t been composted. Particularly bark, wood chips, and leaves. 

In most cases, yellow mold or fungus on the soil of your houseplants or in your garden is harmless. It can actually be beneficial for your plants. Some fungus helps break down dead organic matter. Some types of fungus can actually draw nutrients down into the soil.

Of course, there are also some harmful types of fungi. Yellow mold also doesn’t look very attractive. You may want to remove it, even if it isn’t harming your plants. 

How to Get Rid of Yellow Mold on Soil

Scrape the Mold Off the Top of Your Soil

Yellow mold usually forms on the surface layer of the soil. It doesn’t grow too deep. You can simply scrape the top layer of moldy soil off, put it in a bag, and throw it away. A hand trowel is a good tool to use. This is the best way to deal with mold if there is just a small patch on the top of the soil. 

While you’re scraping the mold away, it’s a good idea to wear a mask so you don’t breathe the mold spores. Chances are, they won’t harm you but it’s a good idea to be cautious, just in case. Also, don’t put the moldy soil in another part of your yard because it could spread mold spores and cause more mold to grow.

There is a chance that the mold will come back if you don’t find out what is causing it. This is more of a temporary fix. You will want to modify the soil conditions to make sure the mold doesn’t return. 

Replace the Potting Soil

If you have a serious mold problem that won’t go away, the best solution is to replace the potting soil with new, sterile soil. This is the best choice if mold keeps coming back after you scrape it off the top. Replacing the plant’s soil should get rid of the fungus. 

Start by removing your plant from its pot and shaking as much soil off the roots as possible. Next, use water to wash as much soil off the roots as you can. There could be spores on the plant itself. If there are any moldy spots on the plant itself, cut them off. It’s also a good idea to apply a fungicide to the plant to help kill the spores. Also, be sure to bag the old potting soil and throw it away. You don’t want it re-contaminating your indoor plants. 

Next, wash out the pot to kill any mold spores. Use some bleach or dishwashing soap to clean the pot. Be sure to rinse it out well. Of course, you could also use a completely new pot.

Finally, fill the clean pot with fresh soil and re-pot your plant. Use a potting mix that drains well or add some soil amendments to improve drainage. 

Apply a Fungicide

If you have a serious mold problem, you can apply a liquid fungicide. Every garden center carries fungicide that can be used to treat yellow mold. One popular option is called liquid copper. It will kill yellow mold. It will also kill potentially dangerous fungi such as Cladosporium and mucor. 

Most fungicides will require multiple treatments. You may need to spray your plants and soil once per week for a month or so. Read the instructions on the label and follow them.

Generally, it’s a good idea to water before applying fungicide so you don’t wash it away. If you’re treating outside, it’s usually best to apply fungicide after it rains. With some types of fungicide, it doesn’t matter.

Before applying a fungicide, it’s a good idea to do a test with a small amount to see how it affects your plant. Some plants are sensitive to fungicides. It can inhibit photosynthesis. It’s also a good idea to wear a mask so you don’t breathe in the spray.

Apply a Natural Fungicide

Before applying a chemical fungicide, consider trying a natural antifungal. A few natural fungicides you can try include:

• Cinnamon- After removing the mold, sprinkle some cinnamon on the soil’s surface. This will help prevent the mold from coming back. It won’t harm your plant. You will have to re-apply the cinnamon once in a while because it will wash away when you water. One benefit of cinnamon is that it has a pleasant odor.
• Neem oil- This is a type of vegetable oil that comes from a tree. Neem oil is effective against most types of fungus. Mix a teaspoon or two with a gallon of water and use it to water your plant. It may take a couple of treatments but the mold should go away.
• Baking soda- Mix 2 tablespoons of baking soda with a gallon of water. Put this mixture in a spray bottle. Spray your plants and soil every three days for a few weeks and the mold should go away. 
• Vinegar- Mix one or two teaspoons of vinegar with a gallon of water and use this mixture to spray your plants and soil. You can use regular vinegar or apple cider vinegar. Spray every few days for a couple of weeks. 

The best type of natural fungicide depends on the type of mushroom or mold you’re dealing with. Before using these natural treatments, it’s a good idea to test them on one spot first to make sure they don’t affect your plant.

These treatments are generally harmless. Baking soda or vinegar could affect the pH of your soil. Baking soda could make it more alkaline. Vinegar could make it more acidic. You don’t want to apply too much. Some plants are sensitive to changes in soil pH. 

How to Prevent Yellow Mold

To prevent yellow mold from forming, you have to change the conditions. Mold prefers dark, humid, and warm environments. If you make the conditions less hospitable for mold, it will usually go away. In this section, I’ll outline the best ways to prevent fungal growth on your soil.

Don’t Overwater. Allow the Soil to Dry Out Between Waterings

Overwatering is one of the main causes of mold. If the top layer of soil is moist, mold can start to grow within 24 hours. Excess moisture can also cause root rot, which can eventually kill your plants. Most types of mold can’t survive on dry soil. 

Wait for the top 1-2 inches of soil to dry out before you water your plants. Mold needs moisture to grow. When the soil is dry, fungus can’t form as easily. When you do water, water deeply. Make sure the soil is good and moist. The soil near the plant’s roots will stay wet for a long time.

If you’re having trouble with yellow mold in house plants, you can also try bottom watering them. Fill a saucer with water then place the pot in it. The plant will absorb water through the drainage holes in the bottom. This keeps the top layer of the soil dry so mold is less likely to form. 

Improve the Soil Drainage

One of the best ways to prevent mold from growing is to improve the soil drainage. Mold forms in damp conditions. When there is poor drainage, the soil will stay wet for too long and it will eventually start to mold. 

Start by choosing the right container for your plants. Choose a pot that has plenty of drainage holes. Empty the saucer under the plant after watering so the soil doesn’t stay too moist for too long.

It’s also important to choose a potting soil that drains well. To improve the drainage of your soil, you can mix in some type of soil amendment like vermiculite, peat moss, or wool pellets. These materials allow water to flow through the soil more freely so the soil won’t stay wet for too long. 

If you’re experiencing mold outside in your flower beds, you may need to redirect rainwater so it doesn’t pool in your beds. You can also add a soil amendment to improve the drainage of the soil. 

Remove Organic Debris From the Soil

Yellow mold tends to develop on organic matter on the soil. This could be dead leaves, compost, mulch, grass clippings, and other dead organic material. Mold feeds on the organic matter. Removing this debris from the soil surface removes a food source for the mold. This can help to reduce fungal growth.

If you have stones, shells, or any other kind of decorative objects on the soil, you should remove those too. They can be contaminated with fungal spores that can spread back to the soil. You can reuse them if you sanitize them. 

Make Sure the Plants are Exposed to Sunlight 

Sunlight helps prevent mold from growing in a couple of ways. Most importantly, it helps the top layer of soil dry out between waterings. The heat from the sun speeds up the evaporation process. When the top layer of soil is dry, mold is unlikely to grow. 

In addition, UV radiation from the sun helps to prevent mold growth. Mold likes dark and humid areas with stagnant air. It doesn’t grow well in direct sunlight. In some cases, the sunlight can kill the mold.

If you can’t move your plants to the sun, you could install a grow light. This will also help prevent mold. 

Improve the Air Circulation Around Your Plants

Avoid placing your plants in areas with poor air circulation. Mold grows best in a humid environment. It won’t grow as well when there is a lot of airflow.

To improve airflow, you could open a window near the plant if the weather is nice. You could also mount a small fan near your plants or turn on the ceiling fan if you have one. The air doesn’t need to move fast. 

If the plants are outside, it helps to space out your plants. Don’t keep them all bunched together with the leaves touching. Some types of plants can be trimmed back. This allows more air to pass between them. 

Proper air circulation will also help to get rid of excess humidity around your plants. This will reduce the likelihood of mold growing. 

Clean Your Tools After Dealing With Mold

Your garden tools could get contaminated with mold spores. If you use them in another part of your garden, you could spread the mold. Mold contamination is a risk. After working with moldy soil, be sure to clean off your tools thoroughly. It’s also a good idea to wash your garden gloves after dealing with mold.

Make Sure You’re Not Using Contaminated Soil, Mulch, or Fertilizer

Soil, mulch, and fertilizer like compost can be contaminated with mold spores from yellow slime mold and other types of yellow mold. When you use them, the mold can start growing fruiting bodies in the right conditions. Mold spores can stay dormant for a long time. Even if the soil has been sitting around for a long time, it could contain spores. 

To avoid this, you should buy quality soil from a trusted seller. You could also buy sterilized soil or sterilize your own soil. It is also possible to sterilize mulch and compost to kill most harmful fungi and bacteria. To sterilize, you will need to increase the temperature to at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Check out this guide to sterilizing soil for more info. 

My Experience

A couple of years ago, I started noticing some type of yellow mold growing on the soil in my backyard. After some research, I identified it as some type of slime mold. At first, I just scraped it off with a shovel and threw it away. It ended up coming back. In the end, I used a fungicide to get rid of it. I also changed my watering habits. I may have been overwatering in a shady part of my yard. 

Yellow mold in your soil usually isn’t a big deal. You can just leave it if you choose. It’s generally harmless. If you have pets or kids, it may be a good idea to get rid of it so they don’t try to touch it or eat it. There are also some types of yellow fungus that can be harmful to your plants. Some types of mold can use up resources which can slow plant growth. 

You can get rid of the mold by changing the conditions. The ideal conditions for mold are moist, warm, and humid environments with stagnant air. Make sure you avoid overwatering, improve the soil’s drainage, and improve ventilation around your plants. This will help to prevent mold.

If you spot some mold, you can scrape it off and throw it away. If that doesn’t work, you may need to replace the soil or use a fungicide. These treatments will work for pretty much every type of fungus including yellow mold, white mold, and grey mold as well as mushrooms. It doesn’t really matter which type of mold you’re treating. 

Have you dealt with yellow mold on your soil? How did you get rid of it? Share your experience in the comments below!

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Mulch is beneficial for strawberries. It can protect them from the cold, help keep the weeds down, and provide valuable nutrients as it degrades. In this guide, I’ll outline some of the best mulches for strawberries and outline the benefits of each. I’ll also explain how and when to mulch your strawberry beds for the best results. 

Why Mulch Strawberry Plants?

Strawberries are perennial plants. They grow great in temperate climates. They can survive cold winters but they do need a bit of extra winter protection to survive in extremely cold climates. The crown and root system of strawberries can be sensitive to freezing temperatures. 

This is because strawberries have a shallow root system. The roots of June-bearing strawberries only go about 6” deep. The root system of Day-neutral strawberries only goes 3-4” deep. Mulching can protect the roots from cold injuries. Mulch can also protect the crown. This is important because the crown because is where the new leaves, runners, and flower buds all develop. New growth is particularly sensitive to cold winter temperatures. New plants are also more sensitive than established plants. 

Mulch creates a protective barrier between the soil surface and the snow and ice. This helps keep the soil a little bit warmer during the winter. It acts as insulation. Mulch can also be beneficial in the summer months. It helps shade the soil to keep it a little cooler. Mulch can also reduce temperature swings between the day and night. This can reduce stress on the plants. 

Mulching has a number of other benefits for strawberries. Most importantly, it adds valuable nutrients to the soil such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. This can help improve yields. As the mulch degrades, it also adds organic matter. This improves the soil structure, making it more fertile.

Mulch also helps keep the weeds down by blocking weed seeds from reaching the soil. It helps retain soil moisture so the plants always have enough water. In addition, it can help with erosion control. It can also help prevent soil compaction by absorbing impacts from rain and people walking on the soil. It’s easier for the strawberry roots to spread when the soil isn’t compacted. 

Another major benefit is that mulch keeps your strawberries clean. Instead of resting directly on the soil, the strawberries rest on the mulch. You can simply rinse them off before eating. They aren’t exposed to contaminants in the soil. Mulch can also help prevent disease and fungus from spreading from the soil to your strawberries. 

The Best Mulch for Strawberries

Straw

Straw is the best and most common type of mulch for strawberry plants. It’s cheap and widely available. All garden centers carry it. It’s also easy to apply. Just grab a bundle and scatter it around the base of your plants. A 4-8” thick layer of straw is ideal. It settles down to 3-4″ over time. When you’re mulching in the winter, you can completely cover your strawberries if you choose. This can help keep them warmer.  

Straw acts as an insulator and helps keep the soil temperature more consistent. Straw can help trap snow, which helps insulate strawberries during the winter. It’s a good winter mulch.

Straw also helps retain moisture in the soil. It also keeps the weeds down. Straw also breaks down quickly. When it breaks down, it provides valuable nutrients for your strawberries. It also adds organic matter to the soil, improving soil quality. Straw can also help to protect your strawberry plants from disease. 

Wheat and rye straw are both good choices. You could also use rice straw. It’s best to avoid hay because it can contain seeds. These can sprout and take nutrients from your strawberries. Straw can also contain weed seeds. It’s best to buy straw that’s made for mulching. 

When buying straw, look for chopped straw instead of baled straw. Chopped straw is usually cleaner. Clean straw doesn’t contain as much dust. It will also have fewer seeds. Straw that is designed to be used for mulching is sometimes advertised as seed-free straw.

One potential drawback of straw is that it can blow around during heavy winds. After it snows, it will usually freeze in place.  It also degrades quickly. You will need to add a fresh layer several times per year.

For more in-depth info, check out my guide to mulching with straw. 

Shredded Leaves

Shredded leaves also make great mulch for strawberry plants. They are easy to apply. They help insulate the soil and keep the soil temperature more consistent. In addition, they help with moisture retention. When they break down, they introduce nutrients and organic material into the soil. This is all great for your strawberries. 

Maybe the best thing about leaf mulch is that it’s free. You can use the leaves that fall from the trees around your home. Just rake them up then shred them and scatter them around the base of your plants. Check out my guide to shredding leaves for mulch for more info.

It’s important to shred the leaves before applying them. If you apply whole leaves, they can prevent water and air from reaching the soil. They can also trap too much moisture in the soil and cause molding and disease. Whole leaves also take too long to degrade.

Pine Straw (Pine Needles)

Pine straw is another free type of mulch that works great for strawberries. It helps insulate the soil, retain moisture, and suppress weeds. It’s also easy to apply. Before you apply pine straw, let it dry out. Apply a layer 2-3” thick around the plants. 

Pine needle mulch won’t add many nutrients to your soil but it is still a good soil cover for strawberry plants. It can also help keep certain pests away, such as slugs. It can also help insulate your plants from cold temperatures. Maybe the best thing about pine straw is that it’s free if you have pine trees on your property. It’s one of the best mulch materials for strawberries. 

One potential drawback of pine straw is that it can make your soil more acidic. This is only an issue if you apply fresh pine straw.

For more info, check out my guide to the pros and cons of pine straw mulch.

Wood Chips or Bark Chips

These aren’t the best mulches for strawberries but they can work fine if it’s all you have. There are lots of different options when it comes to bark and wood chip mulch. They both come in a range of different textures from small shreds to large nuggets. Different trees are used including pine, cedar, hemlock, oak, and more. These mulches come in different colors from dark brown to red.

 Bark chips and wood chips are popular choices for those who care about aesthetics. These are some of the most attractive mulches. This makes them a good choice for your front yard. They can enhance the curb appeal of your home.

Bark and wood mulches also don’t break down as quickly as other types of mulch. This means they last longer so they don’t have to be replaced as often. They can last several years.

The main drawback is that they don’t add as many nutrients to the soil as other types of mulch. They are also a bit more expensive. 

Another drawback to consider is that some wood mulches can make your soil more acidic (lower the pH). Strawberry plants like soil that is slightly acidic but not too much. They prefer a soil with a pH of 5.3-6.5.  If you already have acidic soil, you might want to avoid wood mulch. 

Wood and bark mulches can also temporarily deplete nitrogen from the soil. Microorganisms use the nitrogen in the soil for fuel. After the mulch decomposes, the nitrogen is released back into the soil. As long as you don’t mix the wood or bark into the soil, you don’t need to worry about nitrogen depletion. 

Cedar mulch can be a good choice for strawberries because it has some insect-repellant properties. Cedar contains natural oils that some pests don’t like. 

Compost

Compost is another great mulch for strawberries. You can use either homemade compost that you made from kitchen scraps and yard waste or you can use storebought compost like manure. Apply a layer of compost around 0.5-1” thick around your strawberry plants. It’s best to apply it in the spring. You can then apply another mulch, like straw, on top.

There are a number of benefits of compost. Most importantly, it provides plenty of valuable nutrients to your strawberry plants. Compost is high in nitrogen and other important nutrients. These nutrients will slowly be released into the soil to feed your plants. This will improve yields. 

Compost also improves the soil structure by adding organic matter to the soil. This helps the soil retain more moisture and resist compaction. This makes the soil more fertile.

There are a couple of drawbacks. Compost can be smelly. It also takes a long time to make your own compost. 

Cardboard or Newspaper

Cardboard and newspaper are great mulches for weed control. They break down over time, unlike landscaping fabric. They can also be found for free. 

Before applying cardboard, make sure you remove all tape, staples, and stickers from the boxes. Don’t use any glossy cardboard or newspaper. Apply a layer around your strawberries to smother the weeds. You will need to apply a layer of another type of mulch on top to hold the cardboard in place. 

For more info on this technique, check out my guide to sheet mulching. 

Shredded Paper

Shredded paper can help retain moisture, keep the weeds down, and insulate your strawberries. It’s also environmentally friendly and available for free. 

Simply apply a layer around your strawberry plants and add some heavier mulch on top to hold it in place.  This is important so it doesn’t blow away in the wind. 

Grass Clippings

Grass clippings are another great free source of mulch. When you’re mowing your lawn, catch them in a bag or rake them up then lay them out to dry. After they’re dry, you can use them as mulch around your strawberries. 

It’s important to let grass clippings dry before applying them because they can hold too much moisture and mold if you apply them when they’re green. When this happens, they can get smelly and they can potentially spread mold to your plants. They can also form into a mat that blocks air and water from reaching the soil. When they’re dry, they are looser and less likely to mold. 

Grass clippings are an excellent source of nitrogen. They also help keep the weeds down. You can also mix them with another type of mulch such as straw or leaves if you don’t have enough. You will need to add fresh grass clippings periodically throughout the growing season because they degrade quickly. 

Living Mulch (Cover Crops)

A cover crop is a crop that is planted in the late fall, early winter, or in the early spring. It helps control weeds. The crop is tilled under before it goes to seed. This provides nutrients for your strawberries. A few popular cover crops include ryegrass and clover. This is a modern mulching technique that is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners.

Ramial Mulch

Ramial mulch is a type of wood chips made from young green tree branches. The branches usually come from pruning fruit trees. You can make your own ramial mulch from trees on your property or you can buy it. 

Ramial mulch provides lots of valuable nutrients. The young branches contain more nutrients than regular wood chips. It improves soil fertility. This mulch also helps retain soil moisture, keep the weeds down, and slow erosion. 

Chop and Drop Mulch

Chop and drop is a method of mulching with plant leaves. You chop off the green tops and use the material as mulch. You can use pretty much any type of plant. Some popular options include rhubarb, lemongrass, comfrey, etc. Use whatever is growing in your yard, including weeds. As long as it hasn’t gone to seed, you can use it. Just chop it up and lay it around your strawberries in a layer 2-3” thick. 

This is a great free source of mulch. It’s a great way of keeping yard waste out of the landfill or your compost pile. The plants will provide plenty of nutrients as they degrade. 

There are some drawbacks to consider. You can accidentally spread weed seeds if you apply plants that have gone to seed. It can also look messy. This method also doesn’t provide much insulation for your strawberries. 

Plastic Sheeting or Landscape Fabric

Plastic mulches can be a good option for growing strawberries in colder climates and dry climates. Black plastic mulch absorbs heat from the sun, which helps keep the soil warmer. It also acts as a barrier to reduce evaporation. This is helpful in areas that experience drought. 

Because plastic sheeting is inorganic, it doesn’t add any nutrients to the soil. It can also degrade over time and introduce microplastics into the soil. Many organic gardeners don’t like using synthetic materials in their gardens. Plastic sheeting and landscape fabric can also become an eyesore once it gets torn.

Rock Mulch

Rock mulch can offer a nice aesthetic for your garden. It can also help with weed suppression. There are a few different types of rock mulch to choose from including lava rock, pea gravel, and river rock.

There are quite a few drawbacks. Rock mulch does not add any nutrients to the soil because it’s inorganic. It does help regulate soil temperature but it can hold heat. Rock mulch is also difficult to remove. It can get pushed into he soil and mix with it. 

For more info, check out my guide to rock mulch.

When to Apply Mulch to Strawberry Plants

The best time to apply mulch depends on what you’re trying to accomplish. If you’re mulching to protect your plants from the cold, the best time to mulch is in the late fall after it starts to frost. Early November is a good time to mulch strawberries in most of the U.S. You want to apply mulch before it gets too cold and the soil starts to freeze. You could also mulch in the late summer or early fall.

If you’re mulching to provide nutrients to your plants and keep the weeds down, the best time to mulch is in the early spring before the weeds start coming up.

If you use straw mulch, you may have to apply another layer during the year. Straw mulch degrades pretty quickly. 

How to Mulch Strawberries

1. Select the right type of mulch- I think straw is best. You could also use any of the other mulches outlined above. When choosing a mulch, make sure it doesn’t contain any chemical treatments such as herbicides. Also, make sure it doesn’t contain any weed seeds or other contaminants.
2. Clear the area around your strawberries- Before you apply mulch, remove any weeds around your strawberry plants. If there is grass growing around them, remove it.
3. Add some compost (optional)- If you choose, you can add a layer of compost or manure before applying the mulch. This will help add some nutrients to the soil. If you do this, be sure not to cover the crown of the strawberries because it is susceptible to rot.
4. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of your strawberries- The mulch can go right up to the plant. Ideally, you want your mulch to be 2-4 inches thick. If you’re applying straw, pile it 4-6” thick when you apply it. It will settle down to around 2-3”. If you choose, you can cover your strawberries with a thin layer of mulch in the winter. Make sure the mulch is loose. Some types of mulch can get compacted and block water and air from reaching the soil. This can be a problem with shredded leaves. 
5. Water- After applying mulch, water thoroughly. After watering, stick your finger through the mulch to feel the soil underneath. Make sure it’s wet. If it’s not, your mulch may be blocking the water flow. Remove some. It’s also a good idea to check the moisture level of your soil periodically. Mulch can retain too much moisture. Overly moist soil cause root rot. If the soil stays too wet for too long, remove some mulch.
6. Apply fresh mulch as necessary- Add a fresh mulch layer after it decays. Some mulch degrades faster than others. For example, straw degrades quickly. You may need to add some fresh mulch a couple of times each year. If you apply straw in late November, you might need to add some more in the following spring. Wood chips degrade much more slowly. Ideally, the mulch should never exceed 4″ in depth.

My Experience

I use straw mulch for my strawberry patch. It’s cheap, easy to apply, and it works well. I also like the way it looks in my garden. If I don’t have any straw, sometimes I’ll use shredded leaves. They work well and they’re free. I just use my lawnmower to shred some leaves.

Mulch can protect your strawberries all winter long. Early in the season, it protects them from the cold before the snow arrives. In the late winter, it protects them after the snow melts away. In mild climates, you may not need to mulch but it can still provide many benefits.

The best type of mulch for strawberries is straw but you can really use any type of mulch you have on hand. Strawberries are tough plants. They aren’t really picky. One thing to avoid is covering the crown of the plant with material that holds too much water. This can cause rot. 

Mulching helps your strawberries survive the winter. In addition, it helps prevent weeds, retains moisture, and provides nutrients for your strawberries. It can help increase yields. There is really no drawback to mulching strawberries. If you take care of your plants, you’ll end up with a nice harvest in the summer.

Do you mulch your strawberry plants? Share your tips in the comments below!

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The post The Best Mulch for Strawberries: Straw or Wood Chips? appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

Why People Use Landscape Fabric

The main reason people use landscape fabric is to block weeds. Landscape fabric prevents weed seeds that are already in the soil from germinating and growing by blocking the sunlight. It also prevents seeds that are blown in or dropped by birds from reaching the soil. Blocking weeds is the main use of landscape fabric. 

There are different types of landscape fabric available. Most are made from a non-woven textile. They are basically just big black plastic sheets. The sheets are usually perforated so water and air can pass through into the soil. 

The fabric is placed over sections of the garden with lots of weeds. Mulch is placed on top to hold the landscape fabric in place, help block sunlight, and improve the aesthetics of the garden. The fabric smothers the weeds.

You can buy landscape fabric at any garden center. It’s sometimes referred to as weed fabric or landscape cloth. 

Reasons Not to Use Landscape Fabric

1. Landscape Fabric is Bad for the Soil

Landscape fabric blocks nutrients from reaching the soil when your mulch decomposes. Those valuable nutrients go to waste. They just sit on top of the fabric. The mulch also won’t degrade as fast because the beneficial microorganisms in the soil have a harder time reaching the mulch. 

Over time, your plants use up the available nutrients in the soil and they won’t be replenished. The soil will become less fertile because it will be nutrient deficient. You will have to fertilize to restore some nutrients.

Landscape fabric also reduces the amount of air and water that reaches the soil. The fabric is perforated so some air and water can pass through. The problem is that these holes can get blocked with soil and decaying organic matter. This reduces the amount of air and rain that can reach the soil. Plants’ roots need both water and oxygen to grow. When the soil moisture level is too low, your plants won’t grow well. 

The soil under the landscape fabric will also have fewer beneficial organisms in it. For example, earthworms have to come to the surface periodically. They can’t easily reach the surface when it’s covered with landscape fabric. Worms help bring oxygen into the soil by creating tunnels. They also improve drainage and reduce soil compaction. In addition, they help process decaying matter. The soil quality will be lower without them.  

The soil can also compact over time when it’s covered in landscape fabric. You can’t till it or aerate it without removing the fabric. When soil is compacted, plants have a harder time spreading their roots. 

Over time, it will be harder to grow plants in the soil under the fabric. The plants that do grow won’t be as healthy. 

2. Landscape Fabric Only Blocks Weeds For a Short Amount of Time

When you first install your landscape fabric, it will keep the weeds down. It will smother existing weeds that are growing. The weed seeds that are already in the soil won’t be able to germinate and grow because they won’t receive any sunlight.

The problem is that the mulch that you put on top of the fabric will decay over time. Leaves can also drop on the mulch and decay. Dust can be blown in. After a couple of years, you’ll have around an inch of nutrient rich soil on top of your landscape fabric. 

Weed seeds will be blown in by the wind and land on top of the mulch. Most weed seeds are actually blown in. They aren’t already in the soil. Birds and rabbits can also drop weed seeds on top of your flower beds.

Eventually, weeds will start growing out of the layer of soil on top of your landscape fabric. Weeds can actually start to grow as soon as 6 months after installing landscape fabric. 

When weeds start to sprout, you’ll have to start weeding or you’ll have to replace the landscape fabric and put fresh mulch on top. The weeds may not be as bad for the first couple of years but you will still have to do some weeding. It’s not a permanent fix. 

It is also possible for weeds to grow through landscape fabric. Weeds can grow in the holes you make for your plants. Sometimes, weeds can grow in the perforations in the fabric.

In most cases, landscape fabric isn’t necessary. A good layer of mulch will do the job of landscape fabric. Weeds have a hard time pushing through 2-4 inches of mulch. The mulch also blocks the seeds from reaching the soil. Wood chips and bark can last a long time. 

3. Landscape Fabric Makes it Harder to Weed

Eventually, weeds will start to grow in your mulch on top of your landscape fabric. Some particularly strong weeds can actually grow through landscape fabric. The roots can make their way through the perforations or actually penetrate it the fabric. 

Weeds that grow through the landscape fabric are extremely difficult to remove. This is because the plant roots get tangled in the fabric. Removing them will tear your fabric and make it easier for more weeds to grow. It will also make a mess of your garden. 

Sometimes you won’t get all of the roots with the weeds because they get stuck in the fabric. These roots can keep growing. New weeds will sprout up quickly. Once the root system is established under the landscape fabric, it is very difficult to get rid of. 

Eventually, you’ll just have to remove the old landscape fabric and replace it. This is a big job that you’ll have to deal with every couple of years if you want to keep your garden weed-free. 

4. It’s Unattractive

Landscape fabric does not degrade like mulch. It’s made from inorganic material. Over time, the fabric will get torn. Roots will grow through it. You might accidentally tear it while weeding or digging in your garden. After a couple of years, it will be a tattered mess. It becomes an eyesore in your flower garden. To fix it, you’ll have to replace it.

Landscape fabric is also slippery. Mulch can easily slide off it. Sometimes mulch shifts during a storm if there are strong winds or flooding. Mulch can also slide downhill if your garden is on a slope. Pets and foot traffic can also displace mulch. 

Chances are, your landscape fabric will start showing through your mulch at some point. This is one of the main reasons I no longer use landscaping fabric in my yard. It’s ugly. I don’t like looking at it. It’s also a hassle to move the mulch back onto the fabric after it shifts. 

5. Landscape Fabric Makes it Harder to Change Your Landscape Design

Landscape fabric makes it difficult to add new plants to your garden. You’ll have to cut a hole in the fabric to plant a new plant.  

If you decide to move a plant because it’s grown too big or because it’s not getting enough light, you’ll have to remove the fabric around the plant. You’ll have to cut a large hole to get the root structure out. You’ll then have to cut another big hole where you want to put the plant. 

When you cut a bunch of holes in your landscape fabric, it will become less effective at keeping the weeds down. It will also start to tatter and fray around the holes. You’ll have to replace it eventually. If you plan on adding plants or moving plants, you should avoid landscape fabric. 

6. It’s not Environmentally Friendly

Landscape fabric is made from plastic. It is a petroleum product. Over time, the landscape fabric can introduce microplastics into your soil as it degrades. It also isn’t a recyclable material. It will end up in a landfill eventually.

It’s not great for the environment to put a bunch of plastic in your yard. If you’re trying to garden in an environmentally friendly manner, skip the landscape fabric and just use a thick layer of organic mulch. 

7. Some Plants Can’t Grow Properly

The landscape fabric will prevent some plants from growing properly. As perennial plants grow wider, the landscape fabric can tighten around them. Plants that creep or spread can spread roots into the landscape fabric and under it. Some parts of your plants can get trapped under the fabric. 

This limits your plant’s growth. They can’t grow freely. It will also tear up the landscape fabric over time and make your plants difficult to move. The roots will get stuck in the fabric. 

8. Tree Roots Can Grow Under and Through Landscape Fabric

Another problem you may encounter is tree roots spreading under the landscape fabric. This is an issue with trees that tend to send suckers. The roots will find any hole or tear in your fabric and poke through. 

Once they sprout, they are incredibly difficult to get rid of. You may have to pull the landscape fabric up and dig along the root line to the main tree to get all of the root growth out. If you don’t dig it out, it will just continue to grow. 

Reasons To Use Landscape Fabric

Landscape fabric prevents rock mulch from mixing with the soil

There is one place where it is recommended to install landscaping fabric. That is under inorganic mulches like rock mulch or rubber mulch. If you plan to install lava rock, river rock, pea gravel, or rubber chips, it’s a good idea to install landscaping fabric under them to prevent the rocks from sinking into the soil.

If you don’t install landscape fabric under rock mulch, the rocks will sink in and mix with the soil over time. Heavy rains and foot traffic will cause them to sink in. Eventually, they will need to be replenished. The rocks will also be difficult to remove if you decide you want to change your landscape design. Landscape fabric makes sure the rocks stay on the surface so they can be removed. 

There is one major drawback. Over time, weeds will start to grow in the rock mulch. Debris will make its way into your rock beds. Leaves may fall on it and break down. Dust can blow in. Slowly, a layer of organic material will build up under the rock and on top of the landscape fabric. Weed seeds will also blow in or be dropped by birds. Eventually, weeds will start to sprout out of the rock mulch. The roots can grow into the fabric. This makes the weeds difficult to remove. 

To avoid this, you’ll have to keep your rock mulch clean. When leaves fall on it, get your leaf blower out and clean them off. Don’t allow them to break down into the rocks. Organic matter will build up but keeping the mulch clean will slow down the process. Eventually, you’ll have to remove the rocks and landscape fabric and do a thorough cleaning to keep your beds weed-free. It’s a big job. 

A couple of years ago, my parents paid a lot of money for a landscaper to install some nice rock mulch on their beds in their front yard. It looked beautiful for about a year. Unfortunately, they didn’t keep it clean and weeds started to grow the following year. It was a big job to clean it out. 

For more info, check out my guide to rock vs mulch. 

Landscape fabric can help your mulch last longer

Some gardeners choose to install landscape fabric to increase the lifespan of their mulch. Landscape fabric prevents microorganisms in the soil from reaching your mulch. As a result, the mulch won’t break down quite as fast. 

You might only have to apply a fresh layer once every 1.5 years instead of every year. This can save you a bit of money over time. The mulch might also look nicer for longer. 

Of course, the mulch will still break down, even when you use landscape fabric. It will still weather and decompose. Just at a slightly slower rate. 

An Alternative to Landscape Fabric

If you have garden areas that are completely infested by weeds, one solution is to lay cardboard over them to smother the weeds. Cardboard can also be used to kill off grass. It’s a great tool to reclaim a garden that has been overtaken by weeds or start a new garden where there is currently grass. You can use corrugated or regular cardboard. Newspaper can also be used.

Simply lay the cardboard over the weeds that you want to kill off. Lay some mulch on top of the cardboard. You could use wood chips or a more nutrient rich mulch like compost, straw, or shredded leaves. 

The cardboard smothers the weeds. Over time, the cardboard is broken down by microorganisms in the soil. It doesn’t stick around forever like landscape fabric. It will kill the majority of the weeds. After the cardboard decays away, weeds can start growing back.

The cardboard will last anywhere from 6 months to 2 years. Exactly how long it lasts depends on the climate, the soil quality, the thickness of the cardboard layer, and the amount of precipitation you get.   

When choosing cardboard to apply, look for a non glossy variety with minimal ink. Remove any packaging tape, staples, etc. Lay the cardboard over your beds. Use 1 or 2 layers depending on the thickness of the cardboard. Lay the cardboard over the weeds. Make sure there are no holes. Cover the cardboard with a thick layer of mulch. Wood mulch and bark mulch work well. Pine needles, grass clippings, or straw can also be good options.

My Experience

When I bought my current home, it had landscape fabric in most of the garden beds. I didn’t mind it at first but it quickly started to show through the mulch. Some sections were tattered and torn. I also had trouble planting in it. It was a hassle. 

I really didn’t want to remove it because I knew it would be a massive job. Eventually, I had to because it was becoming such an eyesore. 

I cleaned the mulch off the top and tore it up. After, I tilled the soil to loosen it up. It had become pretty compacted. Next, I applied a healthy layer of compost on top of the soil to restore some nutrients. After that, I planted my plants and added a fresh layer of cedar mulch. I used straw mulch in my vegetable garden. 

It’s always a good idea to mulch. Mulch can help with erosion control. It can help regulate soil temperature. It can also help retain moisture and block weeds. 

Before you install landscape fabric, consider whether or not you actually need it. Keep in mind that you will still need to weed, even if you install landscape fabric. It will also block valuable nutrients from reaching the soil. It will also look unattractive as it ages and wears. 

Landscape fabric can be a fine ground cover. It can help control weeds if you have a serious weed problem but it’s usually not necessary. There are better solutions. The only time when landscape fabric is recommended is when you’re using rock mulch. It will prevent the rocks from mixing with the soil.

Eventually, organic matter will accumulate on top of the landscape fabric and weeds will sprout. There is really no avoiding this. You will always have to deal with weeds. If you stay on top of them, they aren’t that big of a deal. Landscape fabric can be helpful in the short term but in the long term it will be more work to maintain. 

Do you use landscape fabric? Share your experience in the comments below!

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Mulching benefits fruit trees in a number of ways. It can help to suppress weeds, regulate soil temperature, reduce erosion, and retain moisture. As the mulch degrades, it adds nutrients and organic matter to the soil. This helps your trees grow stronger and healthier and increases yields. 

This guide outlines some of the best mulches for fruit trees and lists some benefits of each. I’ll also explain how and when to apply mulch to your fruit trees for best results.

The Best Mulches for Fruit Trees

1. Wood Chips 

Wood chips are probably the most commonly used type of mulch for fruit trees. There are lots of different types of wood chips to choose from including cedar mulch, hardwood mulches like hickory and oak, pine mulch, and recycled wood chips. 

There are a number of advantages of wood chips. Most importantly, they are long lasting. Cedar chips can last 3-5 years. Other varieties may last 2-3 years before they need a fresh layer. Wood chips are also beautiful.

They have a nice natural look. They come in a range of colors.  Cedar chips have a nice reddish orange color. Hickory, oak, pine, and bark mulches come in various shades of brown. Wood mulches also come in various textures from large chunks to shredded wood.

Wood chips also stay in place pretty well. They don’t blow away like lighter mulches can. They can float away if you experience flooding. 

Of course, wood chips also suppress weeds, retain moisture, reduce erosion, and insulate the soil, just like other types of mulch. They add some nutrients to the soil as they degrade. 

Cedar mulch can be a good choice for fruit trees because it has some insect-repellant properties. Cedar contains natural oils that some pests don’t like. It can help keep termites and some types of ants away. Cypress mulch has many of the same properties. 

There are some drawbacks to wood chips. They don’t provide as many nutrients as other types of mulch. This is because they break down slowly.

Wood chips can also temporarily deplete the nitrogen in the soil. The microbes that break the mulch down need nitrogen to fuel their activity. Wood chips are low in nitrogen so the microbes use nitrogen from the surrounding soil. This temporarily removes nitrogen from the soil. After the mulch degrades and the microbes die off, this nitrogen is released back into the soil. This is an issue with all types of wood mulch. This only affects the soil surface as long as the mulch isn’t mixed in.

This is bad for fruit trees because they need nitrogen to grow. Particularly young trees. Without sufficient nitrogen, the leaves and branches won’t grow as fast or as healthy. The trees may also experience some stress. You can eliminate this problem by layering the wood chips on top of a more nutrient-rich mulch, like compost or manure. 

Some types of wood chips can increase the acidity of the soil (lower the soil pH). This is a problem with pine mulch. The acidity increase is usually pretty negligible but it could be an issue if your soil is already acidic or if you plant a specific type of tree that requires neutral or alkaline soil. Most fruit trees can tolerate some acidity but they prefer more neutral soil. 

2. Bark Mulch

Bark mulch is similar to wood mulch. It has pretty much the same benefits and drawbacks. Bark mulch is long-lasting. It also suppresses weeds, retains moisture, and helps regulate soil temperature. Bark mulch is also attractive. It has a nice dark brown color. Bark doesn’t provide many nutrients as it degrades. It can also deplete nitrogen and increase soil acidity, like wood. 

Bark mulches come in a range of different textures from large bark nuggets to smaller bark chips. Bark can also be ground into fine particles called bark dust. It is most commonly made from pine trees. It’s a popular choice because it’s affordable, long-lasting, and attractive. 

3. Compost

Compost contains important nutrients that fruit trees need including nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. It also helps keep the weeds down, helps retain moisture, and helps to insulate the tree’s roots. Another major benefit of compost is that you can make it for free with yard waste and kitchen waste. 

You can also use compost with other types of mulch. First, add a layer of 1-3 inches of compost then add a layer of wood chips or bark mulch on top. The compost adds nutrients and the wood chips add a nice aesthetic. 

4. Manure

Manure can also be a good mulch for fruit trees. It’s usually high in nitrogen but low in potassium and phosphorus. It also helps suppress weeds, retain moisture, and insulate the soil. Manure is also affordable and it’s available everywhere. You can buy it at any garden center. You can also layer manure with other mulches like wood chips. 

When you use manure, you should make sure that it has been composted first. Fresh manure can burn tree roots. This is because it contains ammonia. Fresh manure can also contain pathogens that can be harmful to you, your plants, and your pets. After it has been composted, manure is safe to use. The manure that you buy at your local garden center will have already been composted. 

5. Leaf Mold

Leaf mold is a type of compost made from leaves and a beneficial type of fungi. You can make your own leaf mold by collecting leaves, spraying them with water, and covering them with a tarp or putting them in a bag. After 1-2 years, you’ll have a nice crumbly leaf mulch.

When you make leaf mold, make sure the leaves are healthy. Don’t use diseased leaves or you could spread the disease to your trees. It’s also best not to use oak leaves because they take too long to break down. You can speed up the process by shredding the leaves first. 

Leaf mold is an excellent mulch for fruit trees because it contains valuable nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. Leaf mold also helps improve soil texture by adding organic material. It feeds beneficial microorganisms in the soil. In addition, it helps retain moisture, insulate the soil, and reduce weeds. Leaf mold is also free to make. It’s a great way to use the leaves that fall from your fruit trees. 

6. Straw Mulch

Straw mulch can be a good choice for fruit trees. Probably the best thing about straw is that it’s cheap. This makes it a great choice if you have a large orchard of trees that you need to mulch. It’s also easy to spread by hand. You can just grab bundles of it and spread it around your trees.

There are several different types of straw available. Most straw is made from wheat, rye, or barley. Pine straw can also be a good option. This is mulch made from pine needles. Rice straw is also available. 

Over time, the straw will break down and add nutrients to the soil. It’s not as nutrient rich as other types of mulch, such as compost. Straw is also a good insulator. It will help keep your tree’s roots warmer in the winter. This is helpful if you live in an extremely cold climate. 

There are a few drawbacks to using straw mulch. First, it can attract pests. Rodents like to nest in the soft straw. Some rodents, such as voles, can chew on your fruit tree’s bark and cause damage. If you have a rodent problem, it’s best not to use straw. 

Another drawback is that straw can contain seeds. These can take resources away from your trees when they sprout. When buying straw, look for one that is seedless. This usually means it was harvested before it produced seeds. Most straw comes from alfalfa. 

Straw mulch also doesn’t last very long. You will have to add a fresh layer a couple of times every year.

7. Shredded Leaves

Shredded leaves can also be a great free compost. They can insulate the soil, suppress weeds, and retain moisture. They will provide some nutrients as they degrade. The best thing about shredded leaves is that they are free. They fall from your fruit trees every autumn.

Before applying leaves, use a leaf shredder or lawn mower to shred them. It’s important to shred the leaves before applying them. Don’t use whole leaves. They can block water and air from passing to the ground. They also take too long to degrade. Mold can also be a problem. 

8. Cover Crops (Living Mulch)

A cover crop is a crop that you plant around your fruit trees to cover the soil. They are also known as living mulch.

Cover crops help keep the weeds down, reduce erosion, prevent disease, and insulate the soil. You can also incorporate the cover crop into the soil to add nutrients. 

There are many different cover crops you can grow. Different types of grass and clover are common options. For help picking the best cover crop, check out this guide.

One drawback to cover crops is that they can attract pests, like rabbits. They can also be invasive in some regions. The cover crop can spread to areas that you don’t want it. 

9. Ramial Mulch

Ramial mulch is a type of wood mulch that is made from small and medium sized branches. Only branches that are under 2” thick are used. The branches are ground into chips and used as mulch.

These small branches are rich in nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, calcium, and magnesium. These nutrients are found in the cambium or the living tissue of the branch. Young branches contain more nutrients than the tree trunks that are usually used to make wood chip mulch. The tree trunk contains more heartwood, which has fewer nutrients. 

You can buy ramial mulch. You can also use the branches that you prune from your fruit trees. To make your own ramial mulch, you’ll need a wood chipper. Ideally, the branches should be chipped into 1 inch chunks. You could cut small branches up by hand but it would be too time-consuming. When you make ramial mulch, be sure to only use healthy branches. Diseased branches can spread disease to your tree. 

There are a few drawbacks to using ramial mulch. It can deplete nitrogen, like any other wood mulch. It’s a good idea to layer some compost first to give the soil some extra nitrogen. It can also be expensive if you buy it. 

For more info, check out this guide to ramial mulch.

10. Willow Mulch

Willow mulch can be a good option for fruit trees because it contains salicylic acid. This is a plant hormone that is an active ingredient in aspirin. It may help improve your fruit trees’ immunity. This can help your tree defend itself against some diseases and pests. Willow mulch will also provide the same benefits as wood mulch and has the same drawbacks. 

11. Shredded Paper

Shredded paper can be a good mulch. Over time, it forms into a mat that helps keep the weeds down. It will also add some organic matter to your soil when it decomposes. 

One drawback of paper mulch is that it can blow away in the wind when it’s fresh. After it weathers a bit, it will stay in place. It’s also not the most attractive mulch.

You can make shredded paper mulch at home with waste paper. Just run it through a paper shredder. After it’s shredded, scatter it around your trees.

12. Grass Clippings

Grass clippings are another great free mulch option. They help keep the weeds down, retain moisture, and add nutrients as they degrade. Grass clippings are a great source of nitrogen.

Only use grass clippings if you’re sure they don’t contain any weeds. It’s also best to let the grass clippings dry before applying them.

For more info, check out my guide to mulching with grass clippings.

13. Rock Mulch

In some orchards, rock mulch such as gravel is used. This isn’t the best option for fruit tres but it does offer some benefits.

Rock mulch helps to prevent weeds and it can keep some pests away from your trees. It also lasts a long time because it is inorganic. The main drawback is that rock doesn’t provide any nutrients. 

14. Landscape Fabric

Landscape fabric isn’t really a mulch but it can serve some of the same purposes. It can help keep the weeds down and it can help retain moisture. It can also help keep certain pests away.

There are a few drawbacks to consider. Most importantly, landscape fabric won’t provide any nutrients for your fruit trees. If you put mulch on top of the landscape fabric, the nutrients won’t be able to make their way into the soil to the tree’s roots. 

Mulches to Avoid

• Dyed wood chips- Some wood chips are dyed different colors such as red, green, black, or yellow. The dyes can contain chemicals that will end up in your soil. It’s best to avoid these mulches.
• Black Plastic Sheets- Black plastic sheeting does not allow enough water or air to pass through. It also blocks nutrients from getting to the soil. This can slow your tree’s growth.
• Inorganic Mulches- Inorganic mulches, like rocks and rubber mulch, don’t add any nutrients to the soil. They can help keep the weeds down and insulate the soil but that’s about it. 
• Recycled wood mulch or mulch made from waste wood- It’s best to avoid these mulches because you don’t know where they came from. They could contain pesticides or various chemical treatments.

Consider Layering Different Types of Mulch

You don’t have to use just one type of mulch. You can layer them. For example, maybe you like the look of wood chips but you’re worried about nitrogen depletion. You could add a layer of compost and then add a layer of wood chips on top. Maybe you don’t have enough ramial mulch for all of your trees. You could just use what you have and mix in some regular wood chips. Maybe you want to add some compost but you’re concerned about weeds. You could add a layer of bark mulch on top to help keep the weeds down. 

How to Mulch Fruit Trees

1. Remove all weeds and grass growing around your trees. You should weed out to the drip line. The drip line is the outermost circumference of the tree. It is the furthest point where water would drip off the tree onto the ground. This is where the feeder roots usually extend out to. They need plenty of water and nutrients. 
2. Add some compost or manure (optional). To give your trees some extra nutrition, it’s a good idea to add a layer of compost or manure before adding mulch. 
3. Spread the mulch around under your fruit tree. It should be 2-4 inches deep. Leave a gap around the trunk of the tree of around 6 inches. If the mulch touches the tree, it can rot the wood. This is called crown disease. This can potentially kill your tree. It also makes it easier for certain pests to infest your tree. Also, make sure the mulch isn’t too thick. If you apply the mulch too thick, air and water have a hard time passing through to the soil. It can also prevent moisture from evaporating, which can lead to root rot and other fungal diseases. 
4. Water. After mulching water your trees thoroughly. When you’re done watering, stick your finger through the mulch to feel the soil underneath. It should be wet. If it’s not, your mulch may be blocking the water flow. You should check the moisture level once in a while to make sure your mulch isn’t blocking moisture or retaining too much moisture. 
5. Apply more mulch when necessary. Keep an eye on your trees and apply fresh mulch after the first layer decays. Some types of mulch degrade faster than others. You might have to replace straw mulch a few times per season. Wood chips will last at least 1-2 years. 

How to Choose the Best Type of Mulch For Your Fruit Trees

Generally, you can use any type of mulch on any type of fruit tree. The best mulch really depends on where you live. Use whatever type of mulch is affordable and easy to access in your region. It’s also best to use a mulch that would exist in your tree’s natural environment.

Wood chips, ramial mulch, and compost can work well everywhere. If you’re on a tight budget, use a free type of mulch like shredded leaves, pine straw, grass clippings, or compost. 

When choosing mulch, you should also make sure that it wasn’t treated with any kind of pesticides, dyes, or other chemicals that could harm your trees. You want to use organic mulch. The mulch should also be free of seeds, disease, or fungus. 

You might also consider your soil’s pH level when choosing mulch. Some types of much can increase the acidity of the soil. You’ll want to avoid these mulches if you already have acidic soil. If you’re unsure, you can perform a soil test. Many counties offer free or low-cost soil testing. For acidic soil, hardwood mulch, such as mulch from oak trees, can work well.

Mulching Citrus Trees

Generally, it’s best not to mulch citrus trees. This is because they are more susceptible to root rot than other types of fruit trees.

There are benefits of mulching citrus trees. Mulch can reduce weeds, provide nutrients, and reduce erosion.

If you decide to mulch your citrus trees, leave a wide gap around the base of the tree. The gap should be at least 6 inches. This will reduce the likelihood of root damage.

When to Mulch Fruit Trees

You can mulch your fruit trees at any time of year. Many gardeners prefer to mulch in the spring or fall.

If you mulch in the spring, the rain will help the mulch settle. It will protect your trees all season long. It will also look nice all year.

I prefer to mulch in the early spring. It’s also a good idea to mulch young fruit trees after you plant them. 

Benefits of Mulching Your Fruit Trees

• Suppresses weed growth- Mulch makes it harder for weeds to germinate. They also have a hard time growing through the mulch. It also prevents weed seeds that blow in or get dropped by birds from reaching the soil. This is important because weeds take resources away from your trees.
• Mulch retains soil moisture- Mulch helps the soil around your fruit trees retain moisture longer by shading the soil from the sun and blocking the wind. This reduces evaporation. This helps keep your trees hydrated. It also helps with water conservation. You won’t have to water as often. You’ll save money on your water bill. This is also nice if you live in a hot and dry area that is susceptible to droughts.  
• Mulch adds nutrients to the soil- As the mulch decomposes, it releases important nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus into the soil. These nutrients help your trees grow. They will develop healthier leaves and fruits. Having access to plenty of nutrients will increase your tree’s yields. You also won’t have to fertilize as often. 
• Mulch regulates soil temperature- Mulch shades the soil to keep it cooler during the summer. During the winter months, mulch creates a barrier between the soil and the snow and ice. This helps keep your tree’s roots warmer. Mulch also reduces the temperature swings between the day and night. This helps reduce stress on your tree’s roots. It can also slightly extend the growing season. 
• Reduces soil erosion- Mulching blocks the impact of heavy rain on the soil. It also absorbs some water. This reduces the amount of soil and nutrients that get washed away during a heavy rainstorm. 
• Mulch improves soil structure- As the mulch decomposes, it adds organic matter to the soil. You will see a layer of humus on top of the native soil. Soil with more organic matter can hold moisture better. It also contains more nutrients. The organic material improves soil fertility. 

Reasons Not to Mulch Fruit Trees

There aren’t really any negatives of mulching your fruit trees. It’s best not to leave bare soil.

If you have a pest problem in your yard, you will want to be careful about which type of mulch you use. Rodents can be drawn to straw mulch. Some types of wood mulch could be attractive to termites. If you have acidic soil you may not want to use pine mulch or pine straw because it can lower the pH of the soil. You may also not want to mulch if you grow citrus trees because they are more susceptible to root rot. 

My Experience

I have several types of fruit trees on my property including a plumb tree, an apple tree, a cherry tree, and a peach tree. I usually add a layer of compost and then mulch with wood chips. 

Personally, I like the look of wood chips. I also like that they are long-lasting. I usually only have to add a fresh mulch layer every other year. They may not be as nutrient-rich as other types of mulch but the low maintenance makes up for it. 

It’s always a good idea to mulch your fruit trees. Mulch helps suppress weeds, reduce erosion, insulate the soil, and retain moisture. Really, any type of organic mulch will work well for fruit trees. When buying mulch, make sure it comes from a reputable source so you don’t end up with mulch that has been treated, mulch that is diseased, or mulch that contains seeds. 

Do you mulch your fruit trees? Share your experience in the comments below!

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More from The Homestead Hangout

• What is the Best Mulch for Tomatoes?
• Should You Dispose of Old Mulch Before Adding New?
• Pros and Cons of Homesteading

The post The Best Mulch for Fruit Trees + How and When to Mulch appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

The best way to get leaves out of mulch depends on the type of mulch you use and the way your flower beds are laid out. There are really 4 options. You can use your hands to pick the leaves out or you can use a rake. You can also use a leaf blower or a leaf vacuum or mulcher. Another option is to install some type of barrier to block the leaves from your mulch then remove the leaves from the barrier. In this guide, I’ll explain how each method works.

Use Your Hands

The simplest way to remove leaves from your flower beds is to simply pick them out with your hands. This works best if you have delicate plants or if the leaves are in a corner that you can’t reach with a rake. This is also the best option when you use raised beds.

While picking out the leaves, you can make a leaf pile on your lawn. From there, you can easily rake them up and bag them, put them in your compost bin, or use them as a natural mulch in some other part of your yard.  

To protect your hands from getting dirty or scratched, it’s a good idea to wear some gardening gloves. It’s also a good idea to use a kneeling pad or a small gardening seat to protect your knees or back while you’re working. If you have allergies, consider wearing a dust mask. 

Use a Rake

If your flower beds are larger or if your plants are spaced far apart, a rake is a great tool for removing leaves. A regular leaf rake will be too wide. Choose a narrow rake that allows you to get in the areas between your plants. A hand rake or shrub rake is a good choice. These small rakes are designed for tight spaces. Also, try to choose a rake that has tines that are far enough apart that they can pick up leaves but not mulch. A rake is a great tool for removing a thick layer of leaves. 

When you’re raking, try to be gentle. Light raking won’t disturb the mulch under the leaves. Sometimes, mulch can stick to wet leaves. You may end up removing a bit of mulch with the leaves. That’s okay. If your mulch starts getting thin, you can add a fresh layer next spring. 

You may still need to use your hands to get the leaves out of hard-to-reach places or to remove them from delicate plants. A rake can help you with the more open areas. 

I sometimes use a snow shovel as a kind of dust pan when I’m raking my flower beds. I rake the leaves onto the shovel and then dump them in my yard or in a bag. 

Use a Leaf Blower

On some garden beds, you can use a leaf blower to save some time removing leaves. When you do this, set your leaf blower to a low setting. Try to hold the leaf blower at an angle so it blows air across the surface of the mulch rather than down into the mulch. This way, less mulch and soil will be blown away.

Try to blow the leaves to the center of the bed or onto your lawn where you can easily remove them. It’s also best to wait for the leaves to dry out before you use your leaf blower. Dry leaves are easier to blow away.

After you’ve gotten most of the leaves out with the leaf blower, you may have to use a rake or your hands to remove the rest of the leaves that you couldn’t get. Chances are, there will be some leaves that got blown into the corners or into your plants.  

A leaf blower is probably the most efficient way to get leaves out of your beds but it really only works on specific types of beds with certain types of mulch. Leaf blowers work best on beds with rock mulch and durable plants, like shrubs. The rocks are heavy enough that they won’t get blown away. The leaf blower won’t damage sturdy shrubbery.

If you use lightweight mulch, like straw, hay, pine straw, or grass clippings, a leaf blower probably isn’t the best tool. It will just blow the mulch all over the place. You also shouldn’t use a leaf blower if you have delicate plants. The leaf blower could damage them. Even on a low setting. 

A leaf blower will work better after the mulch has time to settle. Fresh mulch is loose. Older mulch sometimes forms into a kind of mat. It won’t blow around as much. If you have fresh mulch, a leaf blower might not be the best option. 

A leaf blower isn’t the best choice for everyone because it is a somewhat expensive tool. A decent one costs around $150-$300. You can buy lower end models for around $60. 

Use a Leaf vacuum or Mulcher

Another tool you can use to remove leaves from your mulch is a leaf vacuum or leaf mulcher. These tools suck the leaves up into a bagging attachment. At the same time, they shred leaves up into smaller pieces with a rotating blade inside. Many leaf blowers also have a vacuum function. This setting just reverses the fan so it so it sucks instead of blows. 

You can use the shredded leaves as a free mulch or you can compost them. The shredded leaves are also easier to dispose of. They take up less space when they are in small pieces. For this reason, a leaf mulcher is a great option if you have a lot of leaves.

You do have to be careful when using a leaf vacuum on mulch so you don’t suck the mulch up with the leaves. It’s best to use a low setting level of suction and work slowly. Try to get a feel for how far away you need to hold the vacuum for it to pick up the leaves without picking up mulch. 

If you suck sticks, rocks, or thick bark mulch up into the vacuum, you could cause a clog. These objects can also dull the blades that are designed to grind up leaves. It’s best to wait until the leaves are dry before you vacuum them. Wet leaves can cause clogs. 

Use a Leaf Barrier

In the early fall before the leaves start to drop, install some type of barrier over your mulch. Landscape fabric or window screen material can work well. You could also use plastic sheeting.

Cut holes in the material so your plants poke through. Stake the material down or place some rocks on the edges so it doesn’t blow away. The dead leaves will fall on the barrier. They won’t mix with your mulch. 

After all of the leaves have fallen, you can gather the leaves from the top of the barrier. After removing the leaves put them in your compost pile or in your yard waste bin.

You can leave the barrier in place or remove it after the leaves fall. Only leave the barrier in place if it’s made from a material that allows air and water to pass. If it’s a solid material, like plastic sheeting, you’ll want to remove it.

You Will Most Likely Have to Use Multiple Methods to Get the Leaves Out

You probably can’t rake or blow all of the leaves away. There will still be some stragglers. Chances are, you will have to remove some leaves by hand if you want to get them all. Even if you use a barrier, you’ll have to pick some leaves off of your plants. 

You might also find that some removal methods don’t work with your mulch. For example, if you use a lightweight mulch like straw, you probably won’t have much luck with using a leaf blower. If you have a heavier mulch like bark nuggets or rock mulch, you’ll have more luck with a leaf blower.

Getting leaves out of your mulch can be a time-consuming job. It’s easy but somewhat tedious. It will go faster if you have someone to help you.

Tools You’ll Need

• Gardening gloves- Gloves will protect your hands from splinters, scratches, and insect bites while removing leaves by hand. They will also protect your hands from blisters if you’re raking or using a leaf blower. 
• Dust mask- Raking and using a leaf blower can kick up some dust. It’s a good idea to wear a mask. This is particularly important if you have allergies or respiratory issues.
• Eye protection- If you’re using a leaf blower, it’s a good idea to wear goggles to protect your eyes from flying debris.
• Ear protection- If you’re using a loud gas powered leaf blower, you may also need to wear ear plugs to protect your hearing. The gas motor can get noisy.  
• Extra mulch- When you rake, use a leaf blower, or use a leaf vacuum, you may remove some mulch with the leaves. Mulch also degrades over time because it is organic matter. When your mulch starts getting thin, you’ll have to add a fresh layer. You could add a fresh layer after the leaves are done falling or wait until the next year in the early spring to add more. 
• Kneeling pad or gardening seat- You will have to kneel over to get to the leaves. These tools can make it more comfortable to work in your garden for longer periods of time. They can also save your knees and back. 

My Experience

I have used all of these methods to remove fall leaves from my mulch. Usually, I find raking to be the easiest way to remove leaves. I have a narrow rake that works pretty well. I usually end up using my hands as well.

A leaf blower can work on some sections but it usually ends up making a mess of my mulch. I have cedar mulch on some of my beds. The leaf blower does a pretty good job there. The cedar stays in place pretty well. In my vegetable garden, I usually use straw, grass clippings, or shredded leaves as mulch. It’s harder to remove leaves from these because they’re lighter. They don’t stay in place as well.  

After removing the leaves, I usually make leaf compost out of them. Sometimes, I run them through a leaf shredder and use them for mulch in another part of my garden. 

The best method to use to remove leaves from your flower beds depends on the type of mulch you use and the type of leaves. If you have a heavier mulch such as bark nuggets or river rocks, it’s easier to use a leaf blower or vacuum. The mulch won’t move much. If you use a lightweight and loose mulch like straw, pine needles, or grass clippings, using a rake and your hands is probably your best option. Generally, larger leaves are easier to remove than smaller leaves because it’s easier to grab them with a rake or your hands.

The good news is that removing leaves is a pretty easy job. It’s just a bit of a hassle. Whichever method you end up using, I hope this guide makes dealing with autumn leaves in your landscape beds a little bit easier. 

How do you remove leaves from the mulch on your garden beds? Share your tips and experience in the comments below!

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More from The Homestead Hangout

• How to Keep Mulch in Place and Prevent it from Washing Away
• How to Dispose of Old Mulch
• Why Does Mulch Smell Bad? And How to Fix It

The post How to Get Leaves Out of Mulch in Flower Beds appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

The 6 Best Mulches for Tomatoes

Straw

Straw is one of the best and most popular types of mulch for tomato plants. It’s cheap and it’s available everywhere. All garden centers carry it. It’s also easy to apply by hand. Just grab a bundle and scatter it around the base of your plants 3-4” thick. 

Straw helps to retain moisture in the soil. It also keeps the weeds down by making it harder for them to germinate. Straw also breaks down quickly. When it breaks down, it provides nutrients for your tomatoes and helps improve the soil structure. In addition, straw acts as an insulator and helps keep the soil temperature more consistent. This is particularly important for tomato plants, which like warmer soil.

Both rice straw and wheat straw are good choices. It’s best to avoid hay because it can contain seeds that can sprout and use up nutrients. Straw can also contain weed seeds. To avoid this, it’s best to buy straw that’s made for mulching.

For more in-depth info, check out my guide to using straw for mulch in a vegetable garden.

Shredded Leaves

Shredded leaves also make great mulch for tomato plants. They are easy to apply. They help with moisture retention in the soil. In addition, they help keep the soil temperature more consistent. They also break down and introduce nutrients and organic material into the soil. This is all great for your tomato plants. 

Maybe the best thing about shredded leaves is that they’re free. You can use the leaves that fall from the trees around your home. Just rake them up then shred them and scatter them around the base of your plants.  

It’s important to shred the leaves before applying them. If you don’t, the whole leaves can prevent water and air from reaching the soil. They can also trap too much moisture in the soil and cause root rot. 

Make sure the leaves are crushed or shredded into small pieces to prevent this. You can buy a purpose-made leaf shredder or you can use your lawnmower to shred them up. Some leaf blowers also have a shredding function. 

Grass Clippings

You can also use grass clippings to mulch your tomatoes. Grass clippings are an excellent source of nitrogen. They also help to retain moisture and insulate the soil. The best thing about grass clippings is that they’re free. If you have a lawn, you’ll produce piles of them every week. 

Before applying the grass clippings, be sure to let them dry. If you don’t, they will stick together into a mat. This blocks air and water from reaching the soil. It can lead to mold. 

Make sure your grass clippings don’t contain any chemicals, such as weed killer. This could harm your tomato plants. In addition, you should make sure your grass clippings don’t contain weed seeds, such as dandelions. 

For more in-depth info, check out my guide to using grass clippings as mulch. 

Compost

Compost is a perfect mulch for tomato plants because it is rich in nutrients. The extra nutrients will help your tomato plants grow stronger and will increase yields. Compost is also a great soil amendment. It will increase the amount of organic material in the soil to improve soil structure. You can add some compost to the soil while you plant and add a layer on top of the soil as mulch. 

You can use store-bought compost or you can make your own from yard waste and kitchen waste. One of the nice things about compost is that it’s free if you make your own from waste and scraps. Compost will break down quickly. You’ll need to add a fresh layer throughout the season.

It’s important to note that most compost is high in nitrogen. Nitrogen will make your tomato plants grow lush and green but they will produce fewer flowers and fruits. To avoid this, try to use a compost that isn’t too high in nitrogen or wait until later in the season after the plants have flowered to apply it. Generally store bought compost is higher in nitrogen because it contains manure. You can make a low-nitrogen compost by adding more ‘browns’ such as dried leaves, straw, sawdust, etc in your compost pile. 

For more info, check out this interesting guide about growing tomatoes with too much nitrogen.

Bark Chips or Wood Chips

Bark chips and wood chips are popular choices for gardeners who care about aesthetics. These are some of the most attractive mulches. 

There are lots of different options when it comes to bark and wood mulch. Bark comes in a range of different textures from small particles of bark dust to large bark nuggets. Wood mulch can be chipped or shredded into small pieces. A number of different trees are used including pine, cedar, hemlock, oak, and more. These mulches come in different colors from dark brown to red. Pine bark is probably the most popular. 

Bark and wood mulches don’t break down as quickly as other types of mulch. This means they last longer so they don’t have to be replaced as often. The drawback is that they don’t add as many nutrients to the soil as other types of mulch. They are also a bit more expensive. 

Another drawback to consider is that some wood mulches can make your soil more acidic (lower the pH). Tomato plants like soil that is slightly acidic but not too much. If you already have acidic soil, you might want to avoid wood mulch. 

Wood and bark mulches also temporarily deplete nitrogen from the soil. Microbes use the nitrogen in the soil to fuel their activity. This only affects the part of the soil that touches the mulch. After the mulch decomposes, the nitrogen is released back into the soil. Tomatoes need some nitrogen but not too much or the yield will decrease. As long as you don’t mix the wood or bark into the soil, you don’t need to worry about nitrogen depletion.

Cedar mulch can be a good choice for tomatoes because it has some insect-repellant properties. Cedar contains natural oils that some pests don’t like. It also has a beautiful reddish color.

Pine Straw (Pine Needles)

Pine straw is another free type of mulch that you can use for tomatoes. It helps insulate the soil, retain moisture, and suppress weeds. It’s also easy to apply by hand. Another nice thing about pine straw is that it’s free if you have pine trees on your property. 

Before you apply pine straw, you should let it dry out. If you apply it when it’s fresh, it can lower the pH of your soil. Pine straw won’t add many nutrients to your soil but it is still a good soil cover for tomato plants. 

For more info, check out my guide to the pros and cons of pine straw mulch. 

Red or Black Plastic Sheeting

Plastic mulches can be a good option in colder climates. Black plastic mulch absorbs heat from the sun, which helps keep the soil warmer. This helps to prevent the roots from freezing. You can extend your growing season by 2-3 weeks this way. 

Another option is to use red plastic sheeting. This material absorbs heat nearly as well as black sheeting. It also reflects light back onto the plant. This increases photosynthesis. It also has tiny holes that allow water and air to pass through. Red plastic mulch can also help reduce nematode populations. Nematodes are parasites that can eat the roots of your tomatoes and cause damage. 

Plastic sheeting can last many seasons because it is an inorganic type of ground cover. Just make sure you store it properly while it’s not in use so it doesn’t get damaged. 

Other Options

There are plenty of different types of mulch you could use including coffee grounds, cardboard, sawdust, or shredded newspaper. These materials aren’t as good as the above listed options but they can work fine. Peat moss can also be a good choice but it has gotten pretty expensive. It’s also a bit less environmentally friendly because it is being over harvested in some places. You can also use inorganic mulches like rubber chips. These can look nice but they won’t add nutrients to the soil. Natural mulch is always best. 

How to Apply Mulch to Tomato Plants

1. Select the right type of mulch for your tomatoes- Personally, I think straw is the best type of mulch for tomatoes. If you have another type of mulch on hand already, use it instead. For example, maybe you have a pile of leaves, some grass clippings, or some extra wood chips. It’s best to use an organic mulch that will add nutrients as it degrades. When choosing a mulch, make sure it doesn’t contain any chemical treatments such as herbicides or pesticides. Also, make sure it doesn’t contain any weed seeds. 
2. Clear the area- Before you apply mulch, remove any weeds around your tomato plants. If there is grass growing around them, remove it. 
3. Add some compost or manure (optional)-  If you choose, you can add a layer of compost or manure before applying the mulch. This will help add some nutrients to the soil. To grow healthy plants, you need nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. 
4. Spread the mulch around the base of the plant- Apply a thick layer of mulch 2-3 inches deep around the base of your tomato plants. When applying the mulch, don’t let it touch the stem of the tomato plant. Leave a small gap. Also, make sure the mulch isn’t so deep that the leaves of the plant are touching it. If the stem or leaves are touching the mulch, they are more likely to rot. Also, if you apply too much mulch, air and water won’t be able to reach the roots easily. 
5. Water- After applying mulch, water thoroughly. After watering, stick your finger through the mulch to feel the soil underneath. Make sure it’s wet. If it’s not, your mulch may be blocking the water flow. Remove some. It’s also a good idea to check the moisture level of your soil periodically. Mulch can retain too much moisture and cause root rot. If the soil stays too wet for too long, remove some mulch.
6. Apply more mulch as necessary- Keep an eye on your plants and periodically add a fresh mulch layer after it decays. Some mulch degrades faster than others. You may need to add some fresh mulch a few times during the growing season. 

When To Apply Mulch to Tomatoes

Late spring is the best time to mulch tomato plants. In some colder climates, you should wait until early summer.

Tomatoes like warm soil but not too hot. Wait for the soil to warm up before applying mulch. If you mulch in the early spring, the mulch can insulate the soil and prevent it from heating up. This can delay harvest. Your tomatoes may not have enough time to fully develop. Particularly if you live in a cold climate.

It’s usually best to wait a few weeks after planting your tomatoes to apply mulch. This gives the soil plenty of time to warm up. You can apply some compost when planting if you choose. 

During the growing season, you can apply more mulch as needed. If the original mulch starts to degrade away and thin out, just add a new layer. 

Benefits of Mulching Tomatoes

• Mulch retains soil moisture- Mulch helps the soil retain moisture longer by shading the soil from the sun and blocking the wind. This reduces evaporation, which helps the plants stay hydrated. This also helps with water conservation. You won’t have to water as frequently and you’ll save money on your water bill. This is nice if you live in an area with hot and dry summers or if you live in an area that is susceptible to droughts. 
• Reduces weed growth- Mulch blocks sunlight from the soil so weeds have a harder time germinating. It also helps to block weed seeds that are blown in or dropped by birds from reaching the soil. This is important because weeds take resources away from your tomatoes. They use water and nutrients to grow. Your tomatoes will grow better when they aren’t competing for nutrients with weeds.
• Mulch regulates soil temperature- Mulch shades the soil to help keep the soil cool during the summer. When it starts getting cooler in the fall, mulch helps insulate the soil to keep it warmer. This can extend your growing season. Mulch also insulates the soil to minimize temperature swings between the day and night. This helps reduce stress on your tomato plant’s roots. This is important if you live in an area with extreme temperatures. 
• Reduces soil erosion- Mulch blocks the impact of heavy rain. It also absorbs some moisture This prevents soil from getting washed away during heavy rain storms. 
• Mulch adds nutrients to the soil- As mulch decomposes, it releases nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus into the soil. These nutrients are necessary for tomatoes to grow. Having plenty of nutrients will increase your tomato yield. You also won’t have to fertilize as often when you use mulch.
• Improves soil structure- As mulch breaks down, it adds organic matter to your soil. This improves the soil structure. Soil with plenty of organic material holds moisture better. It can also retain nutrients better. It’s more fertile.
• Prevents soil compaction- The mulch around your tomatoes absorbs some impact from rain and from people walking on the soil. This way, the soil won’t compact too much. The roots can spread more easily when the soil stays loose. 
• It keeps the tomatoes and leaves away from the soil- The tomatoes and leaves are less likely to rot this way. They are also less likely to be eaten by pests. Make sure the mulch doesn’t touch the stem, leaves, or tomatoes. 

My Experience

I usually use a free type of mulch around my tomato plants. Usually, I use shredded leaves. Sometimes I use grass clippings. I also apply some fresh compost when planting my tomatoes.

In the past, I would buy straw to mulch my tomatoes. These days, I don’t bother because there are so many free mulches available. Why spend money when I don’t have to? 

The best type of mulch for your tomatoes depends on the weather conditions, the soil quality, your budget, and your personal preference. Mulching tomatoes is easy and cheap. Mulching helps prevent weeds from growing, retains moisture, and provides nutrients for your plants. It can help increase yields. It’s well worth your time and effort. There is really no reason not to mulch tomatoes. If you take care of your tomato plants, you’ll end up with a nice harvest at the end of the season.

What type of mulch do you use for your tomatoes? Share your experience in the comments below to help other gardeners!

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The post What is the Best Mulch for Tomatoes + How and When to Mulch appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.

There are different types of mold you can find in your houseplants. White mold is mostly harmless. Some types of mold, such as gray mold, can harm your plants. Regardless, it’s best to get rid of it.

In most cases, you can simply scrape the mold off the top of the soil and throw it away. If you have a bad mold problem, you can replace the soil or use a fungicide to get rid of the mold.

In this guide, I’ll explain how to get rid of mold on your indoor plants and prevent it from coming back in the future. Mold is a pretty common problem. Luckily, it’s easy to treat.

How to Identify Mold On Your Houseplants

Mold usually grows on the top of your plant’s soil. It can also grow below the surface.

Mold can grow in different ways. Most commonly, it appears fuzzy in texture. It can also be slimy or powdery.

Usually, the mold found on houseplants is white. It can also grow in other colors including green, gray, pink, orange, or black. Mold can also produce a musty odor. 

If your plants are showing signs of stress, such as yellowing or wilting leaves, or if they just aren’t growing well, it may indicate that you have mold problems. It’s a good idea to inspect for mold in this case. 

How to Get Rid of Moldy Soil

1. Scrape it Off the Top

Mold usually forms on the surface layer of soil. To get rid of mold on the top of your soil, you can simply scrape the top layer of moldy soil off and throw it away outside. A spoon is a good tool to use.

This is the best solution if there is just a small amount of mold on the top of the soil. You only need to remove the affected soil. The rest is fine. 

While you’re scraping the mold away, consider wearing a mask so you don’t breathe the mold spores. Chances are, they won’t harm you but it’s a good idea to be cautious, just in case. Breathing mold could cause respiratory problems.

After you’re done, clean the spoon thoroughly. Add a bit of new soil if you need to. 

2. Replace the Potting Soil

If you have a more serious mold problem, the best solution is to replace the potting soil entirely with new, sterile soil. This may be the best choice if you find mold deeper into the soil below the surface. 

Remove your plant from its pot and shake as much soil off the plant roots as possible. Wash out the pot to kill the existing mold spores or use a new pot. Use some bleach or dishwashing soap to clean the pot. Be sure to rinse it out well.

Next, fill the clean pot with fresh soil and re-pot your plant. Use a potting mix that drains well or add some soil amendments to improve drainage. 

3. Use a Fungicide 

If you have a serious mold problem and you don’t want to replace the soil, you can apply a liquid fungicide.

Before applying a fungicide, do a test on a small area to see how it affects your plant. Some plants are sensitive to fungicides. It can be toxic. It can actually inhibit photosynthesis. For this reason, it’s best to try alternative methods before applying fungicide. 

There are some natural fungicides you can try including cinnamon, apple cider vinegar, or baking soda. 

How to Prevent Moldy Soil and Stop Mold From Coming Back

1. Improve Soil Drainage

The best way to prevent mold from coming back is to improve the soil drainage. Mold forms on damp soil.

Start by choosing the right container. Choose a pot that has drainage holes. Empty the saucer under the plant after watering. 

It’s also important to choose a potting soil that drains well. To improve soil drainage, you can mix in some vermiculite, peat moss, wool pellets, or another type of soil amendment.

These are porous materials. They allow water to more freely flow through the soil so the soil won’t stay wet for too long. They prevent the plant’s roots from sitting in water. 

2. Don’t Overwater

Only water your plants when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry. Mold needs moisture to grow. Excess water promotes mold growth. When the soil is dry, fungus can’t form.

To determine when it’s time to water, simply stick your finger in the soil to feel if it’s damp. When the top layer dries out, it’s time to water. Most plants are fine with this watering schedule. The soil deep in the pot will stay moist.

Another option is to bottom water your plants. Fill a saucer with water then place the pot in it. The plant will absorb water through the drainage holes. This keeps the top layer of the soil dry. For more info on bottom watering, check out this guide. 

3. Make Sure Your Plants Are Exposed to Sunlight

Moving your plants so they get enough sunlight will help prevent mold from growing. Sunlight helps the top layer of soil dry out between waterings. The heat from the sun makes the water evaporate faster.

In addition, UV radiation from the sun helps to inhibit the growth of some types of mold. Mold likes dark and humid areas with stagnant air. 

4. Improve the Air Circulation Around Your Plants

Avoid placing your plants in areas with poor ventilation. Mold doesn’t grow as well in areas where air is circulating. You could open a window near the plant if it’s not too hot or cold outside. You could also mount a small fan near your plants and let it blow across them. Alternatively, you could also use your ceiling fan if you have one. The air doesn’t need to move fast. 

It also helps to space out your plants. Don’t keep them all bunched together with the leaves touching. Good air circulation and spacing out your plants will also help to get rid of excess humidity around them. 

5. Apply a Natural Fungicide

There are some home natural household goods that can act as a fungicide.

Cinnamon is one of the best options. After removing the mold from the surface of the soil, sprinkle some cinnamon on top of the soil. This won’t harm your potted plant at all. As an added bonus, it will smell nice. You will have to re-apply the cinnamon once in a while because it will wash away when you water. 

There are some other natural fungicides you can use including baking soda, dish soap, or apple cider vinegar. These can prevent fungal growth.

You should mix these with water before applying them. 2-3 tablespoons per gallon of water is a good ratio. 

To be safe, you should test these natural products on a small area to make sure they don’t harm your plant. Some plants are more sensitive than others. 

For more info on natural fungicides, check out this great guide.

Why Does Soil Get Moldy 

Mold grows in moist environments. It also grows best on surfaces that aren’t disturbed. It likes areas with poor air circulation. Soil can get moldy for a number of reasons including:

• Overwatering- One of the most common reasons for mold to form in indoor plants is too much water. When you overwater, the soil stays wet for too long. This creates ideal conditions for mold to grow. Excess moisture will cause mold. Most pants do not require the soil to be wet at all times. Ideally, you should wait until the top inch of the soil is completely dry before you water. 
• Poor drainage- Mold is more likely to develop if the soil doesn’t drain well because the soil will remain moist for longer. Wet soil is a breeding ground for fungus. Poor water drainage can also lead to root rot. This condition can cause your plant’s leaves to turn yellow or brown. Eventually, it can kill your plant. Proper drainage will reduce the likelihood of mold growth. 
• High humidity and poor air circulation- Many plants prefer humid environments. This is particularly true of tropical plants. The problem is that excessive humidity can cause the soil to stay moist for too long. When the air stays stagnant, mold spores can also build up. This is the perfect environment for mold growth. Having proper air circulation reduces humidity, which can reduce mold growth. 
• Organic matter on the soil- Mold feeds on organic material, such as dead leaves that fall from your plants. Removing the fallen leaves from the soil surface can remove a source of food for mold. This can help to reduce mold growth.

Which Type of Fungus Should You Worry About?

The two most common types of mold infestation to find on houseplants are white mold and grey mold. Generally, white fuzzy mold is harmless. It can use up some of your plant’s resources but it probably won’t harm your plant. 

Gray mold can harm your plant. It usually grows on the plant itself, not on the soil. It can give your plant a wrinkly appearance. Gray mold usually has a dusty look. 

Black mold can be a cause for concern if you see it. It can be dangerous. You will want to remove it if you spot it. 

Grey mold and black mold are pretty uncommon on houseplants. White mold is the most common type of mold. 

How to Get Rid of Grey Mold

If you do find grey mold, you need to get rid of it. Over time it will kill your plant if it’s left untreated. To get rid of grey mold: 

1. Isolate the plant. You don’t want the mold to spread to your other houseplants. Mold contamination is possible. 
2. Cut off the moldy parts of the plant and throw them away. You want to get rid of all leaf mold. Wash your hands afterward. Be careful not to spread it to your other plants. 
3. Move the plant someplace dry, well-lit, and with good air movement. It should not be in direct sunlight. These conditions make it hard for mold to grow. 
4. Use a fungicide. Follow the instructions on the bottle. Test a little area first to make sure it doesn’t harm your plant. Some plants are sensitive. 
5. Monitor your plant closely over the next week or so to make sure the grey mold doesn’t come back. 

Final Thoughts

Mold can be bad for houseplants. It can use up resources such as nutrients from the soil and water. It can slow plant growth. Some types of mold can harm your plants and even kill them over time. If you spot mold, you should get rid of it. In most cases, you can simply scoop it out of the soil.

Moist, humid, and stagnant environments are the perfect breeding ground for mold. Make sure you avoid overwatering, improve ventilation, and give your plants enough light to avoid mold. 

Mold can also form on an outdoor plant but it’s less common because outdoor plants are exposed to more sunlight and airflow is better. 

Have you experienced mold in your houseplants? How did you get rid of it? Share your experience in the comments below!

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The post Is Mold On Your Soil Good or Bad for Houseplants? appeared first on The Homestead Hangout.